1G Optimal operating temp. without a logger?

[93AWDDSM]

hey guys, I did my HG recently and was having issues with pushing coolant and over heating a little. I fixed my radiator leaks, all hoses and new radiator cap/t stat (180 degree). I also put my stock heat shield back on which seems to help quite a bit.

It now runs good but I have a question, the temp gauge now sits a little lower towards colder and my idle is around 1300-1500 @ lights/stops. Could this be because of the T stat's lower degree?

there's a pic attached.

EDIT: I forgot to mention. even when I was doing some sprinted driving through most gears, the temp raised a hair and then went back to this position. Even after hard runs it wasn't budging, are we in the clear?

****compression test was done on 2/19 and results = 4/160 psi, 3/155 psi, 2/160 psi, 1/160 psi

 

[93AWDDSM]

Hey guys, did some fixing of tb shaft seals today and once I got it all back together there was a Chexk engine light. Tested and set TPS, one minor boost leak at j pipe. But everything I pulled apart and rechecked all sensors. Well I checked again, and it looks to be as if the wires to my CTS has frayed and broke off. Could this be causing my CE light? I have checked almost everything else.

Thanks!

 

[gsxeclipse102]

Its deff possible. Best bet is to repair that connector and go over the other ones also. You can buy the connector with pigtails and just simply butt connect it. Your idle issue is prob due to this being broken. Cars staying in open loop.

 

[o0GuitarKid0o]

It probably is, only one way to find out

De-pin the connector and re solder new wires with the same gauge and length of what you removed.

Your cars gonna start hard if the connections really bad

 

[93AWDDSM]

Other than my previous issues, the car ran and started fine with no CE. I most likely broke the brittle wires while pulling it apart. I'm going to fix the wires and retest. I'll let you guys know. Thanks for the quick responses.



Edit: it runs, and idles fine right now even with check engine, no missing


Side note: I tried to adjust the fiav and it wouldn't budge, either way. I think if I want to fix my high idle I'll have to get the fiav block off.

 

[gsxeclipse102]

There is no fiav adjustment. It works off coolant temp. The biss screw adjusts a hole small or bigger. You cant set your idle until your car is warmed up and the ecu knows (ecu coolant temp sensor needs to be fixed).

 

[ThunderChild]

There is no fiav adjustment. It works off coolant temp. The biss screw adjusts a hole small or bigger. You cant set your idle until your car is warmed up and the ecu knows (ecu coolant temp sensor needs to be fixed).

im curious about this...ive been looking into it, and havent cracked open one of my extra TBs yet, but the FIAV can be "adjusted" as far as i have read. tho its not in the same sense as the biss, tps or base timing will affect idle. it seems to be intended to account for the wear and aging of the FIAV. currently, my car surges slightly when cold, but levels out perfectly when warm. ive checked everything and its all working correctly, so my assumption is the FIAV is worn and needs to be "tightened up". its also the way ppl have achieved the free FIAV block off/bypass, turning it in until the valve bottoms out and cannot allow any air to bypass the TB.

i think you could adjust the valve, but alot of them seem to be frozen in place. someday i might crack mine open and see if it will budge.

 

[gsxeclipse102]

While its true you can remove the freeze plug and screw in the fiav you cant adjust it. To adjust something you need a specification... Ive never seen one. Everyone just turns it in all the way to delete its function.

 

[ThunderChild]

thats an acceptable explanation. yes i too have searched and never found a spec, it would be more of a by feel thing.

 

[93AWDDSM]

There is no fiav adjustment. It works off coolant temp. The biss screw adjusts a hole small or bigger. You cant set your idle until your car is warmed up and the ecu knows (ecu coolant temp sensor needs to be fixed).

While its true you can remove the freeze plug and screw in the fiav you cant adjust it. To adjust something you need a specification... Ive never seen one. Everyone just turns it in all the way to delete its function.

I was just trying to turn it all the way in to delete the function, but the black screw plug wouldn't screw IN or OUT, so I left it as is. My cold IDLE is at like 2300-2600 rpms COLD. it's ridiculous and i have only a small boost leak, my ISC is good. my FIAV gasket isn't leaking. How can I fix my high cold idle?

edit: also, those broken wires fixed my CEL. The CTS wasn't connected.

 

[ThunderChild]

Deleting the fiav should cure the high cold idle. Mine sits similar to yours, about 2100 but then surges between 1500 and 2100 for about 2 min.

With the delete, you'll probably have to hold the throttle down for 30 sec-1 min on cold starts. I personally am going to leave mine active and fiddle with the fiav, as I get to temperatures around 0* occasionally.

 

[gsxeclipse102]

I added a picture of the fiav screw after u remove the freeze plug. You may have to soak it in wd40 for a bit if its frozen. Plus be aggressive. Personally i would just block off the fiav and leave the isc working. Your car will idle fine. I never noticed a problem until temps got below freezing and even then all i had to do was give it some throttle when starting cold for about 20secs and then it was fine. Your cold idle of 2300 is it all the time or does it finally cone down? Its normal for a high idle when cold.


Ps fix those boost leaks ecspecially when running a maf. Itll drive your car nuts. If you have any leaks between the head and throttle body you will never get your idle correct.

 

[93AWDDSM]

I removed the freeze plug and soaked it with pb blaster, didn't budge so I reinstalled the freeze plug. I'm looking at FIAV bypass instead of block off. It idles high until it's almost warmed up but if you look at my first few posts with the picture of my temp gauge. I'm thinking the Temperature gauge sensor is either bad or going bad because of where the temp needle sits as it's "fully warm". It's a very inconsistent idle rpm also, meaning sometimes I'll pull up at a light and it's 1300 rpm. I can then drive a few lights and be at 750-900 rpm and the process is repeated. IPS is good...I'm running in circles here

 

[gsxeclipse102]

Your best bet is to do the bypass. Your fiav is prob stuck open and your isc is trying to keep the idle still but cant. When you replaced the headgasket and radiator did you properly bleed the cooling system? Remember the fiav uses coolant to work so if theres air it wont work. Dont worry about the useless oem coolant temp gauge. If you ever buy ecmlink you'll see how stupid the oem gauges are. Ecu will see over 200 degrees and the gauge will still be below half.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Ps fix those boost leaks ecspecially when running a maf. Itll drive your car nuts. If you have any leaks between the head and throttle body you will never get your idle correct.

I have a small J pipe leak that's it. I'll take a video of cold idle start up and post it after work. Thanks for the help.

 

[93AWDDSM]

Tested my CTS while hot and the resistance was .16 ohms.

would that be a in-spec CTS?

 

[gsxeclipse102]

http://www.oocities.org/motorcity/downs/7678/dsmtests.html

 

[93AWDDSM]

hey guys, first off thanks for all the helpful comments and suggestions. I've read over many threads regarding this now and I have a bigger issue. Its been many miles (6K) since headgasket/head was done. I'm starting to get strange symptoms.

Current Symptoms:
comes and goes - idle from 1100 to a extreme rough 500-550 that almost wants to die when put into N.

with the rad. cap off and the car getting to operating temp the water starts to violently spew out of the neck of that radiator housing.

sometimes it will start getting hot, leaning towards the "M/P" on the dash cluster. I also noticed once the cooling fan kicks on when the car is at opt. temp the fan NEVER turns off. (I'm not sure of the temp but I know its extremly hot, the heater blows out air that is almost burning)

sometimes I will see a few bubbles from the overflow tank when its been idling rough around 500-600 like its going to die.

am i correct to assume a redo of a head gasket is needed?

thank you!

Edit: spoke to a mechanic of 20 years said, seems more like a bad CTS or t stat since it doesn't overheat and dump coolant.

I know what an extreme blown HG is like I had tested it before it was blown and it overheated quick with violent overflow bubbling after 3-6 mins driving - I'm not having that currently though even doing 25 min drives