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2G Car won't stay at operating temp

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badbash27

Probationary Member
16
1
Nov 2, 2008
waukesha, Wisconsin
Hey guys, I have a 99 Mitsu Eclipse spyder gs.

My most recent problem is that my car won't stay at operating temp.
If I start the car, and let it idle long enough, it will eventually hit closed loop, but once I start driving, the temp gauge ends up back reading cold, and she stops putting out heat.

I swapped the thermostat last night, and am still having the issue.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Yea, this was the second time that I have replaced it with the standard from Advance auto within a year.
Where did you get your oem from?

I am hoping that it is just a thermostat.
Just very confused because usually anything else would cause it to overheat rather than making the cooling system work 'too efficiently.'
 
Yep so what's happening, is that T stat stays stuck open, you get nice and warm at a stop, but as soon as you start moving, you drop to cold, heat is gone, because the antifreeze is flowing non stop, where the thermostat should stay closed till 190 then open!

http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=21131&cat=0&page=1

Awesome vendor and supporter of the site, I highly recommend them. A little more expensive, but you get quality!!![DOUBLEPOST=1415808704][/DOUBLEPOST]I would give them a call, let them know you have the Spyder non turbo and verify that t-stat will fit, or they have the right one for ya!
Great customer service too!
 
Yea, that's what I figured was happening. Just thought it odd that it was happening with two different thermostats. Also, when I pulled the old one out, it was closed. So it doesn't stay open all the time..
Thank you very much for the link, I will give them a call today and hopefully get it ordered.
I live in northern Wisconsin where it is a toasty 13 degrees, so heat on the way to work would be nice.
 
:D It feels like 13 here today! Yea those stats are just junk. I couldn't figure it out, but I knew it was the Tstat. I guess the water pump over powers their retention capabilities, causing them to stay open on during engine operation.

What really sucks is when you start moving, and your windows start freezing and you can't see, that was my motivation to order an oem tstat.
 
I hear you there. I have about a half hour commute, and not having heat is bad, but not being able to see is worse. Last thing I need is to end up in a ditch because the window was frozen over.
Thank you again for your help. I will be ordering an oem today, and will report back once I get it installed!
 
if the thermostat doesnt fix it id replace the coolent and see how more effiecent it is they sell coolent testers for like 15$ but if your coolents full of rust or is deteriorated id replace it should be green depending on the coolent whitch im sure you no
 
Just a thought, Could air in the coolant cause this problem? Or the jiggle valve on the t stat not being in the right position?
I have been doing some more research on the issue today at work, and I am 100% positive that I didn't bother to note the position of the jiggler valve, or bleed the system.

Thanks
 
Agree sounds like Tstat, and a good coolant flush would be good idea to wash out old sludge and debris. To avoid other problems ie pluged heater core and radiator. To keep the heat going in the cold northern weather.
 
The T stat is the only control to warm the motor. If the motor is running under 160 your ECU think's it needs more gas, so you will burn more gas running rich.

If you are stand still and your car gets warm, then you start driving and it's temp bottom's out, heat is gone. It's a T stat.


Like others posted if your coolant isn't a nice neon green or orange, probably needs changed, but you are not over heating, your are over cooling :) So changing the fluid really doesn't matter!!
 
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