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optimal auto meter wideband o2 sensor postion?

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1991eagleawd

10+ Year Contributor
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Jul 5, 2011
toronto, ON, Canada
i just picked up a wideband!!! im unaware of best place to tap for the sensor.

and any info about how to use this device to get my monies worth is a tone of help to me also. :p
thanks
 
A good spot is right before the flex section of the downpipe. Make sure to the have bung welded in at a 10 degree angle.

All the WBO2 will do is let you monitor your AFRs, that will help when adjusting them with the tuning device of your choice.
 
The section before the flex is very tight. I have a Megan racing down pipe.and it's got no room under here. After the flex next to the transfer has a spot. There is a spot before flex, but the sensor would be sticking straight out parrallel to the ground. Is that and okay spot?
 
Right after the flex section is acceptable, however, you want the sensor to be close to the top of the pipe, not on the side (parallel to the ground as you described). The reason you want the sensor at an angle and on the top of the pipe is to help prevent deposits from building up on the sensor, and it is also good to have the sensor slightly angled toward the engine, as per my little crappy paint scheme.
 

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That would work. Just make sure the sensor is mounted between 9 o'clock and 1 o'clock to prevent any moisture from accumulating and damaging the sensor itself.
 
ok, so i got the sensor put in just before the bend before the flex, sits at 130-2 looking back to front.

thanks for all the help guys.

now for the tuning side. i am running a SAFC2 with a auto meter wideband. i am new too all this so i will need help to learn how to tune this beast. it sits at 14.5 at idle. i noticed that when i take my foot off pedal, it goes up to 16.

i have read up on the a/f ratios, and what not....but i rather hear it from guys that have done this all before, rather than a write up. so any info on everything i need to know about tuning her, i am greatful for. thanks in advance to all
 
14.5 is perfect at idle. It's the optimum burning ratio.

When you let off the gas it will go all kinds if crazy. That's normal.

Just keep an eye on it while your giving it gas. That reading should stay pretty steady

The faster you go (more gas you give) the reading should go down (richer) ie. 14.2, 13.5...

Don't quote me on this last part but I want to say optimal ratio at WOT is 11.2?.... I'm sure somebody will have there .02 about this last part if it's wrong.
 
Do you have a logger? What injectors are you using? Fuel pump? Fuel pressure regulator? Are you still on the 1G maf? Tell me these things and I can help you get set up. :thumb:

i have a data logger cord already set up. its a 9 prong plug. looks like its for a laptop? i had one in my old talon that plug right into a palm...but this one is different. i have looked up the mmcd program and emulator for the laptop.....but most the links i found are gone.:confused:

i have 550 injectors, with a 190 fuel pump. there is a fuel pressure gauge, but no regulator on it. still stock maf.

i have a cafc2 with auto meter wideband.

so a break down on how to keep my a/f safe by way of safc2 is imperative for me.

i noticed that when i wot, the numbers drop to 10-11's. sometimes at wot it will jump up to 14 just before boost then go down to 10-11......

thanks for all the help guys.
 
i have a data logger cord already set up. its a 9 prong plug. looks like its for a laptop? i had one in my old talon that plug right into a palm...but this one is different. i have looked up the mmcd program and emulator for the laptop.....but most the links i found are gone.:confused:

i have 550 injectors, with a 190 fuel pump. there is a fuel pressure gauge, but no regulator on it. still stock maf.

i have a cafc2 with auto meter wideband.

so a break down on how to keep my a/f safe by way of safc2 is imperative for me.

i noticed that when i wot, the numbers drop to 10-11's. sometimes at wot it will jump up to 14 just before boost then go down to 10-11......

thanks for all the help guys.

Decent setup. Rewire your fuel pump per the instructions in the tech article, if you havent already. A gauge for fuel pressure without an AFPR is fine, but just to be sure pressure is correct, momentarily disconnect the vacuum line on your factory FPR and see if the gauge is reading 37.5- 38 psi at idle (a rewired 190lph COULD over run the stock FPR in some instances)
I believe the emulator you need is called "Palmenstein", though I havent messed with it in a while. Im assuming the cable youre describing is the standard logger cable, which has three plugs to hook to your diagnostic port, and a serial bus plug on the opposite end. If this is correct and youre unable to find an emulator to run MMCD on your laptop, just get a palm with a sync cable and youre good to go. (theyre too cheap not to:thumb:)
Regarding your AFR's at wide open throttle, the factory map is set to 9- 9.3:1 at the highest load points. How much boost are you running? If youre running 16psi or so, then you are at the highest load points on the map, which should be 9- 9.3:1, which means youve got your SAFC set too far into the negative at the high throttle point. I believe it should be set at around -18 across the board for 550cc injectors and stock maf to get the factory maps to line up. If you are running stock boost levels, and have your SAFC set close to where Ive described above, then 10- 11:1 AFR's at WOT are about right. I strongly recommend you stop tuning until you can get a logger working because you have no way of knowing whats really going on (Knock, fuel trims swinging lean or rich)
 
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