Optical vs. Hall Effect

[JFZERO ECLIPSE]

Please look at Mavisky's write up with his FMOC install and his porting...


It shows how to slightly port the oil filter housing...BTW I seen you were running a 6-bolt motor so its kinda different for each....

His porting was quite small...Can be opened up quite a bit more....But DO NOT go above the oil pressure relief portwhen it is installed...as oil pressure goes up to high the relief port backs outwards away from the center allowing it to open up...so you want to go up but not too far....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/220259-installing-upgraded-oil-cooler.html

You do not want to go above the part in the pic....otherwise you will have low oil pressue instead of moderate....

 

[dsmmack]

What's an HLA and do you have a link explaining this porting of the oil pressure return port? I dont' even know where that is . And can you explain this larger oil port and where i got it? or do you mean the bigger hole in the newer lifters? I can go back to 1g lifters anytime, i have mine all cleaned up and don't get any clicking and clacking out of them.

I only upgraded to 3g lifters on the request of the cam manufacturer, but honestly when i hand picked the lifters to go in my motor using a mechanics stethescope and listening to them run; all the really quiet ones ended up being 1g lifters. guess it's all in how clean you get them an how you are about oil and changing it, because i haven't had a lifter problem in years using the old style ones.

HLA = Hydraulic Lash Adjusters, (Lifters) The oil pressure return port is in the oil filter housing, Pull off the oil filter housing and remove the pressure return spring plug, spring and valve. Port the hole larger. Just like stated above, DO NOT port larger just like that pic. You'll be eff'd if you do. clean out the filter housing off all filings using some solvent/brake cleans and reinstall everything. Fixes the common hitting 100+ psi pressure at high rev's which can cause some adverse effects.

 

[daren_p]

The Crowers aren't the most "aggressive" spring out there (think they claim around 15% stiffer then stock) but depending on what kind of rpms your trying to run, with that cam combo they should be fine. If you want abit more seat pressure, shimming the springs is a good idea. If your looking for a cheeper alternative to some of the springs mentioned here, the Manley singles seem to do very well & are one of the more "aggressive" standard style single springs. Guys have run them with the FP2X cams in the 8000-8500 range without any issues & those are a much more aggressive cam vs yours. Last time I checked Darren at FFwd also has the bee hives listed on his site.

 

[turboglenn]

DOes anyone have a pic of what the porting should look like? I'd rather not mess with it before knowing exactly what to do. I definatley don't want to screw anythign up that deals with oil pressure. We've never messed with that on any of the builds i've been involved in and they've been fine, but i guess i could be "that guy" that has to do the porting. But untill i can see exactly what to do i'd rather not chance it.

My friends car is turning almost 9k on the crower springs, so I figured if i'm going to get them for free i might was well use em. We usually shift it right before 9k RPM and it runs 272/272 cams but he's getting rid of them for 280's when he does the springs and stuff in hopes of turning 11k.

My goals are a lot less than his, my car is never going to be more than a beefy street car, his is a race car on the street I'll probably never see 8k RPM, but i would like to be able to overun the motor in the end of third and see if it helps on the strip, or having the extra few RPM to overtake on the road course it would be nice to know the motor will do it.

 

[dsmmack]

DOes anyone have a pic of what the porting should look like? I'd rather not mess with it before knowing exactly what to do. I definatley don't want to screw anythign up that deals with oil pressure. We've never messed with that on any of the builds i've been involved in and they've been fine, but i guess i could be "that guy" that has to do the porting. But untill i can see exactly what to do i'd rather not chance it.

My friends car is turning almost 9k on the crower springs, so I figured if i'm going to get them for free i might was well use em. We usually shift it right before 9k RPM and it runs 272/272 cams but he's getting rid of them for 280's when he does the springs and stuff in hopes of turning 11k.

My goals are a lot less than his, my car is never going to be more than a beefy street car, his is a race car on the street I'll probably never see 8k RPM, but i would like to be able to overun the motor in the end of third and see if it helps on the strip, or having the extra few RPM to overtake on the road course it would be nice to know the motor will do it.

Scroll down, There is a pic attached.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/stroker-tech/224606-porting-oil-relief-hole-no-balance-shafts-2.html

I used to run the Manley springs and Ti retainers in my old head with a set of 272's they were a great spring for the price. Going with Kiggly's myself for my FP3's on the stroker.

 

[turboglenn]

UPdate: While taking squeek10686 for a ride today i was at 22psi and this started happening earlier, (about 6800) and when i backed off to 19psi i hit 7200 again.

Now this confuses me to weather or not it's valve or spark related...... Why couldn't it have just stayed the same??? WTF??

I lost my job yesterday so parts money is obsolete for a while, i've got over 950 bucks in insurance due next month and that leaves me broke!

Well, with this new added info, does this change anyone's opinion?

 

[turboglenn]

Well, i got a DIS-2 on loan from squeek, i'll most likely install tomorrow and report back.

 

[turboglenn]

Well, i got the DIS-2 in tonight. I wired it 2 ways. once by bypassing teh ignitor/transistor and triggering the MSD via haltech directly. I was experiencing hard starting and also Quite a bit of more knock than usual. After wiring in the transistor to feed signal to the MSD things got quite a bit better. Although it didn't fix my revving issue (has to be valve springs now), it started easier and there was less knock on initial free rev and under high boost in third gear. So basically the unit did me no good, but i guess it's nice to have. I am not sure that i still wnat it, but what the hell, if i can afford it , i will buy it.

 

[Jimmy Jr.]

What plugs are you running? Friend had this exact problem and swapped every ignition related component on the car. Come to find out he was running bpr8's. Threw in some 7's and the problem vanished.

 

[turboglenn]

I'm running BR7ES plugs, gapped at .025

 

[demografik]

what wires?

 

[turboglenn]

Magnecore 8.5mm wires.

 

[demografik]

have you inspected for damage and tested for bridging?

 

[turboglenn]

have you inspected for damage and tested for bridging?

yea, i've done everything and replaced EVERY ignition part. I'm guessing it's valve float as i can feel the power drop off about 700RPM before it starts breaking up and shutting down. I even added an MSD DIS-2 and still no better.

 

[HighPSI TSi Guy]

Are you sure it's not fuel related? something stupid that accidently got changed in the haltech settings maybe? I've seen instances on AEM cars a lot where someone messes with it and accidently hits a key or messes with something they don't understand and it's a bi*** to track down and causes stuff like this.

 

[turboglenn]

Are you sure it's not fuel related? something stupid that accidently got changed in the haltech settings maybe? I've seen instances on AEM cars a lot where someone messes with it and accidently hits a key or messes with something they don't understand and it's a bi*** to track down and causes stuff like this.

You raise a good point but i've checked EVERYTHING as far as settings, fuel and spark maps, extra inputs and outputs and if they are grounded or not.

The one thing that shouldn't cause it but i haven't checked yet is the fact that i went from multi point injection with an "ignition divide by" setting of 2 (meaning the injectors fire every 2 spark events) and now i'm running in batch fire where the ignition divide by is set to fire the injectors once every ignition event or a setting of 1.

I need to change it back and test it, the same map will even be fine on fuel, i just keep forgetting to try that once because i don't always have a laptop with me when i think about it. I just switched to batch fire to try and gain some mileage back.

 

[90laserRSfwd]

Have you done a compression, leak down, and boost test's lately?

 

[turboglenn]

Yes, if yoiu look at the first posts in this thread and my thread "can't rev past 7200" you will see that i've done all the normal tests and then some. Went extreme on shielding and grounding and power wires, added an MSD box and changed plugs twice. It has to be the valve springs giving up the ghost.