muffinstar16
Proven Member
- 51
- 3
- Apr 30, 2016
-
Spring Lake,
Michigan
Need to replace my plugs/wires as they're causing an issue.
Which ones should I get? Which ones should I avoid?
Which ones should I get? Which ones should I avoid?
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Rumor has it they help with knock by taking up less space in the combustion chamber. I found myself running a couple more degrees timing from when I swapped from the brp6es to the br8es. I've been happy with them. Just had to gap them a little tighter because I was getting spark blowout.If your car is more or less stock, run BPR6ES gapped to .028. The NGK plugs that start with BR instead of BPR are NON projected plugs and they aren't the correct plugs for most DSM gasoline applications. I see more and more people mention them, I'm not sure if they're all running the wrong plugs or just forgetting the P in there.
I switched from bpr7es to br7es and no complaints, NGK wires and plugs, stock coils. I gap them at .028 on pump and race gas ~32psi no issue, but had to reset gap to .022 with pump and methanol.If your car is more or less stock, run BPR6ES gapped to .028. The NGK plugs that start with BR instead of BPR are NON projected plugs and they aren't the correct plugs for most DSM gasoline applications. I see more and more people mention them, I'm not sure if they're all running the wrong plugs or just forgetting the P in there.
Some have better luck with the non projected plus(missing the P) as some applications get spark blowout. I too was a victim of this during high loads and high boost on e85. Switched to non projected and gapped and bit tighter to .024 and pulls great.If your car is more or less stock, run BPR6ES gapped to .028. The NGK plugs that start with BR instead of BPR are NON projected plugs and they aren't the correct plugs for most DSM gasoline applications. I see more and more people mention them, I'm not sure if they're all running the wrong plugs or just forgetting the P in there.