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Oil soaked pistons, plugs,valves, got pics

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ajinvista

20+ Year Contributor
95
0
Nov 17, 2002
Lavista, Nebraska
It smokes a little at idle but gets considerably thicker as you rev the motor, this is in neutral just sitting, or in gear under boost doesn't matter.
Pistons have a pool of oil on top and the valves are gunked up bad.
Head had valve job done 7 yrs ago along with the new rods and pistons(bored). But motor was just started for the first time last winter. 120 miles on motor.
Turbo was just rebuilt, and new valve guide seals.
Got a 3 layer metal head gasket, looks alright, no cross contamination of oil and coolant. All cylinders have 150 psi.
PCV doesn't run to the intake anymore.
If it matters piston to wall clearence .010 .

Help There's some pics(hopefully) here or in profile.

Thought piston was .020, pistons have .050 markings. Maybe should have been more specific on how big to go. He's an old bike dragger. Anyway what's the displacement of a 2.0, .050 over. and how much H.P. would that make on it's own.

SORRY misread piston, 0.50(mm) = .020 (in.) DAH.

Thanks in advance
 

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I'm going to take the head to someone and have new valve guides and another set of seals put in. I keep wondering if the dude who did the head work before put the old guides in. I would hope not, I'm trying to find the paper work,this thing sat on the back burner for a long time.
If it doesn't work the rings are next.

Thanks,
A.
 
ajinvista said:
I'm going to take the head to someone and have new valve guides and another set of seals put in. I keep wondering if the dude who did the head work before put the old guides in. I would hope not, I'm trying to find the paper work,this thing sat on the back burner for a long time.
If it doesn't work the rings are next.

Thanks,
A.


Its gotta be vavle seals. I just replaced mine as well this week. I had the exact same symptoms, but mine just went out. It didn't sit for long. Good luck.
 
I think I may need to replace my seals as well... Is there a way to replace them without pulling the head off... Someone said that if you have a air compressor that you could leave the head on the car while you replace them...What do you think?
 
Zacksdsm said:
I think I may need to replace my seals as well... Is there a way to replace them without pulling the head off... Someone said that if you have a air compressor that you could leave the head on the car while you replace them...What do you think?

vfaq.com
 
get a leakdown tester, and pressurize the cylinder with anywhere between 60 and 70 pounds of air. Anymore, and the engine will turn itself over.
Take your valve cover off.
Rent a lever-type valve spring compressor and compress the valve spring.
While the spring is down, use a pair of needle nose pliers and remove the valve keys.
Let off of the compressor and take the spring off.
If you've had a valve job, make sure Not to lose any shims that are used under the springs.
You will need a special type of plier, called (hehe) Valve stem seal pliers, and take the old seals of.
Use brake parts cleaner lightly to clean the valve stem and the guide.
Place the new valve stem seal over the valve.
Find a deep well 10 point socket where the inside diemeter is the same as the diameter of the seal.
Place the socket over the valve stem and tap lightly with a hammer until the seal is at the bottom of the guide and level with it also.
After that, it's the reverse of taking everything apart.
Voila!
 
I got the head totally disassembled except for the stems. Found out the stems are the original ones. When I took the valves out I could see there was a coating of oil on them.
Thanks for the replies, it might be a while for this answer to be resolved being as I'm broke.
But I will post an answer sooner or later.
Reply to taking out the valves w/the head on, I followed the VFAQ post about it but I made my own compressor out of some square tubing, flat stock and an eye bolt. It's not as nice but it 's gotten the job done twice so far. I couldn't afford the one he used.

P.S. Any one have an idea of how much I might be charged to have the stems taken out and new put in, just the labor, I'll get the stems and seals
 
ajinvista said:
I got the head totally disassembled except for the stems. Found out the stems are the original ones. When I took the valves out I could see there was a coating of oil on them.
Thanks for the replies, it might be a while for this answer to be resolved being as I'm broke.
But I will post an answer sooner or later.
Reply to taking out the valves w/the head on, I followed the VFAQ post about it but I made my own compressor out of some square tubing, flat stock and an eye bolt. It's not as nice but it 's gotten the job done twice so far. I couldn't afford the one he used.

P.S. Any one have an idea of how much I might be charged to have the stems taken out and new put in, just the labor, I'll get the stems and seals


Labor shouldn't be to bad. If its a decent shop and they know what they're doing only about an hour or so. I paid about 300 for a full head rebuild. I think stems and seals would've been about 100 for me or so. But it's really hard to say because every shop charges different amounts.
 
The pistons are most likely .020" oversize, and are marked in metric as .5 (mm). That's the way a lot of them are done. Hence, for a .030" overbore the pistons are marked .75 (mm) and for a .040" overbore the pistons would be marked 1 (mm) oversize accordingly. I doubt you can even get factory replacement pistons and rings in anything over .040"/1mm oversize. Sooo, even with a .040" overbore, that only gives you a bump up to an 86mm bore and the same 88mm stroke, which simple math shows to be a bump up almost 48cc from 1997cc to 2045 cc. Your overbore of .5 mm equates to a total increase of only 24cc, so basically you go from a 1.997 liter to a 2.021 litre and the amount of hp gained would be almost imperceptible.
 
We usually charge between 150 and 250 for an aluminum overhead cam head rebuild, depending on what needs to be done. When you have a head rebuilt, they use your stock valves if they aren't bent. They just bead blast them and then re-grind the face.
If your seats are pitted, it will be more $ to install new ones. If your stock seats are in decent shape, they will just cut them.
You can also have hairline cracks in your head which will be welded, and stripped out bolt holes which will need to be retapped/helicoiled.
For a basic rebuild, we hot tank the head, cut the stock seats, surface, blast and grind the valves, vat the springs and retainers, install new seals and valve keys, polish the camshaft lobes, install new cam bearings (if your head has them), new lifters, and reassemble the head to stock seat pressure and stock valve stem and spring height. That usually costs around 200$.
More if you have cracks or stripped out bolt holes.
 
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