oil return leak. cant win!

[bowens1414]

ok typical leak. i know the return line leak is common on the 7 bolt due to the fitment to the pan, but mines a tad different. regardless, im not leaking from the pan to my -10 an aluminum fitting. i got that shit on lockdown. my leak is coming from the 45 -an fitting particularly where the female piece with threads that spins around the -10 male piece, its where the female piece connects to the solid pipe that bends up to the turbo. i can provide pictures if necessary. i understand this a difficult location to explain. but this is just pissin me off. about the 4th time ive taken it off and adjusted it

 

[1Gina2G]

Trust me man i feel you %100. Sounds like you went the same route as me by getting rid of the crappy oem hardline that will leak at the flex section. I also used a braided -10 an hose and fittings, used a perfect amount of jb weld as a gasket and then black or grey RTV on the threads of each bolt for a flawless seal.

A picture would help, just because you mentioned a 45* fitting rather then a 90*. Are you sure its 45?
Think of the Oem hardlines, they 90 into the pan. When i was experimenting with the fittings, prior to assembling my oil return, i realized the 45 made the line flex to much to make the facing match up to the oil pan, could be putting unwanted tension on the hose and fittings.

With that said, i always did the turbo side first then the oil pan, seems to go on better/ easier that way. Make sure the bolts are not to long or short but perfect length, and those small 10mm's break fairly easily so be carefull.

Really the flat mating surface is not as ideal for the oil pan compared to the turbo, so if it really calls fir it- weld a 10an fitting inside the hole of the oil pan, and have the end of the new oil return have the matching fitting that will be alot more secure.

Last thing i can say is that i always recommend using some blue threadlocker on everything whenever you assemble any AN fittings, most are self sealing but it helps alot. Not red because red needs heat to dry up.
Best of luck to you man

 

[bowens1414]

my apologies it is a 90 haha brainfarts. but yea i can provide a picture in a few. it is very tricky to fix. the common spots for the leak are sealed up good. it might just be a bad 90* fitting.

 

[T is for TURBO]

Is it an el-cheapo an fitting?

 

[1davho]

It could be the male end of the fitting got smashed or warped. If it has a defect where it meshes with the flare from the female fitting, they will leak.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You need new fittings. I just replaced my -12AN drain after the same damn leak at the swivel. It seals at the swivel not the threads. the tapered pieces mate together crush and create teir own seal by design. so you could have chewed threads that arent lettting the sealing faces touch or it's truely just not tight enough. Mine is bone dry now. And no sealant on anything

 

[LarryJoe]

I have the factory hard line bolted to the oil pan, then sawed off before the flex section and use a rubber hose clamped to it and clamped to the fitting on my 50 trim. It makes its so easy to remove that line because all you have to do is remove a clamp.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

He has AN fittings not the factory hard line.

 

[clipto]

Buy a 1g oil drain line use new gaskets and silicone to seal it. Sence you got a hacked up oil pan buy a new or used one and be done with it. Your just running a 16g turbo no need for crazy big oil drain lines.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

^ true, ha didn't notice just the 16g. But another solution could be to weld the AN fitting to the pan, if so inclined.

 

[TSiAWD666]

The only time I've had the female threaded piece not seal on the hard line of an AN bend is when the female fitting wasn't tight enough onto whatever male AN it's attached. They need to be tightened just enough so they don't leak but of course not enough to strip the threads. The swiveling piece seals from that pressure created when the swivel is tightened down, as it's of course sealing on the male AN fitting but also pinching the swiveling hard pipe inside the female fitting.

I imagine though you tried to tighten things, but if not, try that. If so, I suspect a piece of debris is in there preventing the seal meaning you could disassemble and perhaps try to clean it (not sure how), or the unit is just defective in some way to prevent the seal meaning you need a new fitting.

Vague answers, but you're the only one there at the fitting so it's all I got.

 

[bowens1414]

thats the leak right where the part that freely moves and seals. i just gave it my all on tightening this bi*** ill be going for a drive in a little bit under boost at high rpm for a good oil pressure. then ill check again. so far though, nothing.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Nice exhaust

 

[4g63t]

It looks like it's not tight enough, it's out of round or its leaking around your threads and dripping at the low point of the fitting making it look like it's at the swivel.

Always use thread sealant on those fittings. I never did and always got small drips. After I started using it on everything, nothing leaks! I like the permatex brand sealant. It comes in a small white tube.

 

[bowens1414]

exhaust is nice i got a catback but haven't bought the down pipe. and so far no leaks.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

You really dont need sealent on the threads if it's a good not damaged fitting, they are a crush seal design, like i said before. And do not seal by the threads at all.

I just did this last week with new fittings nice and tightly and hasn't leaked a drop.

 

[clipto]

Grab a new flex section for that poor exhaust. Just try to redo the line and seal it up. Doesn't look too bad I think we all had issues with the stupid oil return line at one point.