oil return line leak

[captd108]

when i did my turbo install i ended up having a leak where my oil return line meets the oil pan. Its like a tiny drop every so often but it still bothers me. Ive searched for different answers but i havent really found of one where people say it works for sure. Now the leak doesnt come from the bolt holes but from the oil hole itself i guess you can say. I tried getting a new gasket today from mitsubishi but still no luck and even put rtv around the thing but oil finds a way to break through. Now im thinking mabye i should be doing this on an empty oil pan and making sure everything is completely dry so i may have to try that next. Anyways does anyone have any ideas or tips to fix this leak that have worked for them. Thanks

 

[Defiant]

If it's not the usual place under the cap screws, then your pan may be distorted. Pull the drain off, clean all the oil off with some Brakleen on a rag, and use some Permatex #1. Use copper washers under the heads of the bolts (cut off large electrical ring terminals and use them if you don't have proper copper washers) and DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN.

 

[captd108]

its like a black rubber hose line from the turbo to the pan. I think im gonna try emptying it out and drying everything of first and get another gasket before i try anything else to see if that will work.
Defiant - what is Permatex#1... type of sealant? and also what do you mean by the pan being distorted?

 

[juso]

I had the same problem.
I did the samething Defiant did but instead of using prematex #1 i used prematex ultra grey silicone. Ultra Grey is an OEM silicone sealer for import vehicles.
The trick is to get everything oil free.

Extra tip for you.
If your going to use a cork/paper type gaskets DO NOT use silicone with it. Cork and Paper gaskets need oil/coolant to help seal by expanding. So by using silicone your covering the pores on the gasket to prevent it from sealing. At that point its just a washer/spacer.
But you can use silicone with rubber seals. Rubber acts differently.

So either gasket only or silicone only.

 

[captd108]

Well i went out today bought two new gaskets just in case and permatex #1. I guess if i had known that permatex 1 wouldnt work well with an oem gasket i wouldnt of used it then. But still in the end the oil found a way to get through and i have about a drop of oil every 5 min it seems like. Im planning on having someone else check it out, and also try putting on the return line from the t25 to see if its the hose itself that might be leaking somehwere although i really dont think it is. Thanks for all the comments so far.
Would the ultra grey silicone of worked on the oem gasket from mitsu. better than permatex #1

 

[boosteddsm]

Forget using a gasket. Brake clean both surfaces and use rtv. I've never had one drip doing it this way. Good luck.

 

[oldman]

If you didn't use new crush washers on the bolts they will most likely leak throught the bolt threads. If it's leaking from the flange, try using double gasket and rtv. Remember to let the rtv time to dry.

 

[RamenPride]

If it's not the usual place under the cap screws, then your pan may be distorted.

yeah, not uncommon when you take off the oil return line and overtighten the screws when putting it back on

 

[captd108]

crushers are brand new and it looked liek it was coming from underneath in the middle of the hole. Im confused as to why there is still drops of oil coming out of the oil return line hole even when theres none coming out of the drain plug hole cause it just seems to never end.

 

[GTM]

I had the same problem.

Extra tip for you.
If your going to use a cork/paper type gaskets DO NOT use silicone with it. Cork and Paper gaskets need oil/coolant to help seal by expanding. So by using silicone your covering the pores on the gasket to prevent it from sealing. At that point its just a washer/spacer.
But you can use silicone with rubber seals. Rubber acts differently.

So either gasket only or silicone only.

Golly, do you think you should tell Rolls Royce not to use silicon sealer on paper gaskets. To my knowledge they still have the patents and back in the mid 60's it was sold at Rolls dealers as SQ32M for the hefty sum of $43 a tube. They don't only build cars but some pretty nasty aircraft engines which must meet a whole lot stricter regulation than any car.

Sorry but I really get upset with these unqualified urban legends, misinformation, and total bogus statements. There are some thing you should not do with silicon sealers that might not be obvious, they should not be applied over previously applied silicon seal without using the proper cleaner. Alternately filing or scraping to base metal will work. They cannot be used in high vacuum environment including suction side of AC compressors for the sealer degrades.

Sealers will designate if they cannot be used for a particular application and for sure they will not open themselves up to lawsuits because you used their product and some component or gasket failed.

Cheers,
GTM

 

[AiR]

every gasket that i have ever put on anything i always use general trim adhesive on one side and black silicone on the other. never had anything ever leak on me.

 

[jibberishballr]

Well i had the same problem. The oil line to oil pan part was leaky so i rtv'd it and it didnt leak anymore. But now its leaking from the same place but from the thread part of the line where it connects to the gasket looking thing. heres a picture.

 

[oldman]

Are you saying you're leaking from the two bolts that bolt the flange to the oil pan? If so, did you change the crush washers under the bolts.

 

[jibberishballr]

Its from the actual line itself where the black part of the hose and the part that connects to the oil pan is...its right on the thread.

 

[jibberishballr]

Well i couldnt get the line off and had my local mechanic do it for cheap and it ended up being some gasket or seal along with having to redo the line and the oil filter had a seal leak so after fixing all that and giving me an oil change with mobil 1 10w-30 100% synthetic, it ended up costing me 85 bucks which was worth it just to get it out of the way. Just thought id let you guys know.