Oil return bolt BROKE off!

[Nitrobasher]

one thing after another...

So I get my turbo back from Forced Performance. They rebuilt my FP3052. Everything looks great. no issues that I can see.


Threading in the oil return line with the turbo on my dining room table. One side goes in not fully torqued. (I like to tighten the bolts in a pattern to avoid this type of issue.)

Threading the other side in... Snug snug snug CRACK. Bolt spins freely... I'm thinking shit how could I have possibly stripped this bolt. Being a technician myself I like to think I can avoid these types of newb mistakes...

So I beging to loosen the bolt, to my suprise it threads right out... when The bolt fully comes out guess what other piece fell in my lap... The rest of the CHRA housing...

There has to be a way to fix this?! I know I did not just dump $700 down the drain!!

any advice??

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[bryanwheat]

No easy way to fix that. Looks like a new center housing will be required.

 

[NordicSaab]

Ouch... I doubt you will be able to weld that... Especially assembled.

Only option I can think of is JB Weld. Not ideal but it could work.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Only option I can think of is JB Weld. Not ideal but it could work.

No no no and no

 

[bryanwheat]

Ouch... I doubt you will be able to weld that... Especially assembled.

Only option I can think of is JB Weld. Not ideal but it could work.

Have you ever used jb weld? If so than you will know that an epoxy metal has no use for anything in an engine, let alone a turbo.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I had to tap drill out my bolt in my evo char and rethread another stud in there works just fine, saved my turbo, upgraded turbo but I thought it was no good but when I do all I can before I throw in the towel.

 

[NordicSaab]

Have you ever used jb weld? If so than you will know that an epoxy metal has no use for anything in an engine, let alone a turbo.

Obviously the right thing to do is replace the casing, but that is a great deal of $$$ on top of what he has already invested... It could be fill welded drilled and tapped but that ruins his rebuild.

If it is in the turbo cartridge JB Weld would likely hold up. I'm just trying to offer they guy options. Is it the right thing to do? no. Could it work? Maybe.

 

[Dsmkauai]

I bet it Happen during shipping! How did the box look when you got it? I just had a friend from Cali ship me a 16g to rebuild and the box arrived in very sad condition. I could tell it had been dropped by the dents in the compressor cover that were not there before he shipped it. Anyway a small piece of the Chra were the oring seal is for the compressor broke off and I don't think it will seal right. Thank God he insured it for $1200 since the price of a new 16g is like $1105 I think. Anyways he just got his check today! And I'll maybe be able to fix the Chra ill post a how to thread once I do it so you all can see how it's done! Hope you figure out what happen o.p.! and jb-weld wouldn't last a second on the high heat turbo makes, would be sick if it could!

 

[bryanwheat]

Obviously the right thing to do is replace the casing, but that is a great deal of $$$ on top of what he has already invested... It could be fill welded drilled and tapped but that ruins his rebuild.

If it is in the turbo cartridge JB Weld would likely hold up. I'm just trying to offer they guy options. Is it the right thing to do? no. Could it work? Maybe.

How about this, it will not work, ever. There is no guessing here. That shit is junk for anything structural. Most of use learned that years ago tinkering with lawn mowers and dirt bikes when we were kids. These products have no use in any application under the hood.

 

[Rikolas]

Ouch... I doubt you will be able to weld that... Especially assembled.

Only option I can think of is JB Weld. Not ideal but it could work.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Jb weld, ried that in my younger dsm days, just retap it rethread it easy fix takes not time at all, cheap and effective if done right. If you can get it out, any pics.

 

[bryanwheat]

Jb weld, ried that in my younger dsm days, just retap it rethread it easy fix takes not time at all, cheap and effective if done right. If you can get it out, any pics.

Do you not see the picture? Half of the threaded portion broke off. There is no hole any more, just a half a hole. You can't drill or tap it.

 

[Nitrobasher]

I doubt it happened in shipping. Forced Performance had it foam wrapped in molded foam.

Everyone says no on welding?

 

[92AWDHX40]

I meant on the turbo Chra not broken pieces.

Call up fp Monday and speak to the crew maybe they can help somehow, worth a shot.

 

[bryanwheat]

I doubt it happened in shipping. Forced Performance had it foam wrapped in molded foam.

Everyone says no on welding?

The problem with welding it is that you would need to take the internals out of it to do so. If you are going to take the internals out than you might as well find another housing. Than there is the possibility that the welded section could break off while the engine is running and you lose all your oil and kill the engine and turbo. A different approach might be to tap the outlet hole and thread a fitting into it, but than you have the issue of metal contamination in the turbo.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

The problem with welding it is that you would need to take the internals out of it to do so. If you are going to take the internals out than you might as well find another housing. Than there is the possibility that the welded section could break off while the engine is running and you lose all your oil and kill the engine and turbo. A different approach might be to tap the outlet hole and thread a fitting into it, but than you have the issue of metal contamination in the turbo.

And a smaller drain hole thats only okay for feeds

 

[bryanwheat]

And a smaller drain hole thats only okay for feeds

Don't shake your finger at me boy.

 

[92AWDHX40]

If you can grab some more pics please that would be great so we can get a better idea of the problem.

 

[Nitrobasher]

Bryan, I like that Idea.

I'm using a filter/resistor with feeding from the OFH per Forced Performance recommendation.

Being a BB turbo and needing "less" oil pressure. Would the smaller diameter Return line still be an issue?

I will post better pictures tomorrow.

 

[92awddsm]

Bryan, I like that Idea.

I'm using a filter/resistor with feeding from the OFH per Forced Performance recommendation.

Being a BB turbo and needing "less" oil pressure. Would the smaller diameter Return line still be an issue?

I will post better pictures tomorrow.

First off, is the drain hole square or round? Secondly, the turbo should come apart before drilling or tapping any part that involves the fees or drain. It would be too easy for shavings to find their way into the bearings.

And post a pic of the bottom of the chra.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Don't shake your finger at me boy.

finger dont your shake me at boy

You don't ever want to obstruct or make a drain smaller, If the engineers wanted it to be smaller they would have. The only option is to get a new chra, or disassemble and attempt to weld build up, and re tap, even then is the chra cast iron or is it stainless or cast steel? Good luck finding a cast iron filler that won't fatigue or break over time, cast iron is brittle as shit even welding might not hold up very long, or depending on who welded it if they didn't let it cool properly or anneal it. There could be issues. Also there could be possible warpage to occur to the internal journals because with cast metals and how dense they are you will need to preheat the whole thing around 1600*F. Prior to welding. And during welding warpage could occur or the welding could not be successful at all. I personally would get a new chra, sorry for your loss.

I suppose the other option is braze the broken Off piece to the chra, but also again, would the heat during usage re melt the braze metal?