The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Oil pump/front case

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

stagen

15+ Year Contributor
128
19
Nov 28, 2007
Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin
I planned on buying an OEM front case, but I stumbled upon an ad on ebay that claimed that the one they were selling was old inventor or overstock OEM ones. It would save me $100 so I thought I'd look into it. Does anyone have any picks of an OEM front case and possibly an after market one like toplie s that I can compare them to the ones in the picks in their ad? Or does anyone know just by looking at them if they're OEM?

Ebay AD
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
I run the case that you linked to.. It worked fine in my last build and it should work fine in this build.
 
Im not sure getting ones from ebay claming to be OEM are a good idea, might save you some cash, but would it be worth it not knowing how it was cast and by who?? As for buying an OEM one from the dealer, I've gotten 3 from the dealer in Ohio and it came with the gears, now gaskets i had to get them. JNZ would be cheaper then Extreme depending on shipping and taxes.
 
I realize this, thats why I was trying to see if people could tell. I remember seeing somewhere that they could visually tell the difference between the aftermarket and OEM casting.

I could get an OEM front case and timing set from South West Mitsubishi for $400 shipped, but if this was an actual OEM part why not save a $100? Thanks fro teh replies so far guys. Still undecide tho, but I have a while to think about it before I get the money and the black back from the shop.
 
My front case is leaking :( Only 430ish miles on the motor. Appears the seal for the gears is leaking but its weird. Small spray of oil is coming out from the nut on the outside gear, its not on the front case itself.

I may have to pull it soon and replace it. I dont like oil leaks even if they are super small, I like keeping my car clean.
 
Im not sure getting ones from ebay claming to be OEM are a good idea, might save you some cash, but would it be worth it not knowing how it was cast and by who?? As for buying an OEM one from the dealer, I've gotten 3 from the dealer in Ohio and it came with the gears, now gaskets i had to get them. JNZ would be cheaper then Extreme depending on shipping and taxes.


+2 :thumb:

When it comes to something like your front case, I'd stray away from those scetchy ebay brands. Don't want to install that new motor just to pull it all back out again to replace a leaky front case. Just my opinion of course, I've been screwed by Ebay too many times.
 
My front case is leaking :( Only 430ish miles on the motor. Appears the seal for the gears is leaking but its weird. Small spray of oil is coming out from the nut on the outside gear, its not on the front case itself.

I may have to pull it soon and replace it. I dont like oil leaks even if they are super small, I like keeping my car clean.

i had a similar problem, it ended up being that the nut was not tight enough. there is no seal in between the surfaces of oil pump sprocket and drive gear.there is only a seal that goes around the oil pump sprocket. take of your oil pump sprocket and clean the mating surface that makes contact with the drive gear. put it back on. i used a tiny lock nut on the nut that holds the sprocket in place. tighten in down to 35lbs and your good to go.
 
if that dealer is charging $400 shipped, there rippin you a new one, I just used caps to pull up some numbers and went to the dealers part site i used, front case with the gears, came to 250.63, now there is diffrent front cases/oil pumps for 1gs, i would need your build date to be sure on the parts numbers.
 
I couldn't see any year or model Front Case/Oil Pump costing $400. That's an outrageous price. Even if you bought all the parts seperately from ExtremePSI it wouldn't cost more than $250 shipped. I know Slowboy used to have all the parts for a decent price, but I'm not gonna reccomend them, I don't really deal with those guys anymore. But I'd stay away from that shady dealer .
 
i had a similar problem, it ended up being that the nut was not tight enough. there is no seal in between the surfaces of oil pump sprocket and drive gear.there is only a seal that goes around the oil pump sprocket. take of your oil pump sprocket and clean the mating surface that makes contact with the drive gear. put it back on. i used a tiny lock nut on the nut that holds the sprocket in place. tighten in down to 35lbs and your good to go.

Alright, I will try to take care of that today hehe. Supposed to rain later tonight and I have oh so much to do.

1:Shorten my power wire to the rewired pump.
2:pull T-Case and replace rear seal
3:put new gasket on turbo drain line where it meets the pan, its leaking
4:pull driver side rear suspension and find out whats making the pop sound every once in a while when I go from reverse to forward.
5:Wire in my shift light, again.
6:pull bumper and cut out a little more of it for a better fit for the FMIC piping

Going to be a busy day hehe
 
3:put new gasket on turbo drain line where it meets the pan, its leaking.

Don't forget it could be the Copper Crush Washers on those teeny ass fasteners, they leak more often than the gasket does - Those are THRU HOLES into the Pan - I had to tap mine to American 1/4-20 & used the round part of an electrical lug as a crush washer - No more leaks.

& that Front Case looks like a great deal to me~!
 
No it was $400 for the front case, and new timing components shipped to my door. An OEM front case from Southwest Mitsubishi is like $178 or so with out shipping. And again with the ebay thing the only reason I asked was because I swore I had seen somewhere that there was a visual difference in casting quality and what not between OEM and knock off so I figured somone would know.
 
I've never had crushed washers there. Its always just been a gasket.

Ditto.
You probably have to drain the oil anyhow, so some RTV and the gasket should be a sure fire plan.

Well that would be because neither of you know what the HELL you were looking at - The STOCK fasteners on BOTH your cars have a crush washer on them - Exactly what part about THRU HOLE do you not comprehend?? - If you ever hope to have any Rep anywhere in your future you may want to take the time to know what the hell you are posting about & also who the hell you are counter-posting.

& on ramps it's a minor drip or 2 to do this job, which BTW if you had actually DONE this job you would already KNOW!
 
Well that would be because neither of you know what the HELL you were looking at - The STOCK fasteners on BOTH your cars have a crush washer on them - If you ever hope to have any Rep anywhere in your future you may want to take the time to know what the hell you are posting about...

& on ramps it's a minor drip or 2 to do this job.

Calm down.. I think they were saying they have never USED and crush washers, not that it never came with them.
 
12797V - MF101229 6x20 Bolt
12784S - MF660031 Gasket D=6
12537 - MR258477 Gasket
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Well comparing some pics of OEM ones to the ebay one I found that it is a different casting. Around the crank seal on the OEM one there are 3 circles around the edge most likley for the metal to flow into the mold and on the ebay one there is only two. So Im just going to go with my original plan and get it with the timing suff off of Southwest. Thanks for the help. :)
 
Well that would be because neither of you know what the HELL you were looking at - The STOCK fasteners on BOTH your cars have a crush washer on them - Exactly what part about THRU HOLE do you not comprehend?? - If you ever hope to have any Rep anywhere in your future you may want to take the time to know what the hell you are posting about & also who the hell you are counter-posting.

& on ramps it's a minor drip or 2 to do this job, which BTW if you had actually DONE this job you would already KNOW~!


I meant only to describe that I fixed a small leak by simply replacing the gasket and adding a little copper RTV. Maybe the original owner removed the washers? I wouldn't know.
I also already had the oil drained when I did this, so I was unsure if it was actually necessary to drain the oil.
 
Calm down.. I think they were saying they have never USED and crush washers, not that it never came with them.

No, I am saying, my car never came with them. Perhaps its because of the previous owner but it didnt have any there.

Now that I know they exist, I can go order some.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top