The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

oil pressure after balance shaft removal

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

andakanda

10+ Year Contributor
142
0
Nov 11, 2009
Bergen, Europe
According to this guide Eclipse Balance Shaft Removal

the oil pressure after removing the balance shaft is to much , ( the extra oil pressure )

is this something to worry about or will it be fine in most cases?

im doing my BSE tomorrow
 
It's always good to know what your oil pressure is at the turbo inlet and run the proper restricter so you don't blow out turbo seals. Very important for Holset and BB turbos.

One thing you can do however, is port out the oil filter housing relief valve to allow more oil to exit into the drain when proper pressure is met.
 
I will say that is seems most people are fine with the stock turbos after doing a BSE with out a restrictor or porting. It's your call but porting and restricting is prob. the best route to take :thumb:
 
The high oil pressure can kill turbos. You should run a restrictor in your turbo oil feed line after deleting the balance shafts. Also hook up an oil pressure gauge to the turbo feed line so you can see exactly how much oil pressure your turbo is getting. Also you must port the oil pressure relief hole to cut back on the high oil pressure (search for this I don't have any theads off hand). Finally make sure your stub shaft has the oil groove cut into it. Some of the cheaper balance shaft eliminator kits don't have this and can cause your oil pump to seize up.

Edit: Damn way to slow. You should still check out your stub shaft though.
 
Last edited:
The high oil pressure can kill turbos. You should run a restrictor in your turbo oil feed line after deleting the balance shafts. Also hook up an oil pressure gauge to the turbo feed line so you can see exactly how much oil pressure your turbo is getting. Also you must port the oil pressure relief hole to cut back on the high oil pressure (search for this I don't have any theads off hand). Finally make sure your stub shaft has the oil groove cut into it. Some of the cheaper balance shaft eliminator kits don't have this and can cause your oil pump to seize up.

Edit: Damn way to slow. You should still check out your stub shaft though.

Just make sure if youre running a journal bearing turbo, that you get a restrictor for a journal bearing turbo, not a ball bearing one, the hole is considerably smaller for BB turbs.

Also, i had this issue before with a BW S256 when it was cold, i was feeding it from the oil filter housing. I ended up switching the feed location to the head and it dropped the OP at the turbo by about 10psi, and hasnt smoked when it was cold once.
 
Taking out the balance shafts on any 4g63 will raise the oil pressure, so yes.

I ported my OFH relief valve and was seeing 40psi at idle. Granted it was after a complete engine rebuild.
 
How Do i port My OFH Relief Valve? And How Do I Port oil pressure relief hole ? Is There A Manual Or Photos How Do This Step By Step? Coz I really Need To Fix My High Oil Presure. Thanks In Advance.
 
so is anyone gonna answer the question? i know this is 2 years old but i came here thinking this thread would have some good information... what the heck is the oil pressure supposed to be in a 2g with BS removed, and a ported OFH? i used to sit at 30psi warm (200* coolent temp)... Now i'm at 18-21 for some reason? Is this normal? I was so used to seeing it at 30psi at 1k idle which is my target idle. It's a little scary to see it close to the 15 psi mark.
 
I've heard that its typically 10psi per 1k rpm for a stock DSM. But I would also like to know what is a good range for a car with a bse installed. And also where the oil pressure gauge is tapped.

yeah but alot of us have built motors with 6 bolt swaps :p anyone on target oil pressure for a 2g?
 
Last edited:
Lol that is true.. anyways ive been wondering the same thing.. i have eliminated bs, i also run 15w40 and my oil psi sits at 95-100 when cold. sits at 18-30 at about 1k warm. And the whole 10 psi for every 1k does not apply to me LOL anyways when i hit about 3k my oil psi is at about 80 and at 5k its at100. So is that normal? Or do i have an issue? And those numbers are at a coolant temp of 200+. Any info would be great. Ive already gone thru a couple of threads and some ppl say its okay. Some people say its way too high. So not too helpful LOL
 
Lol that is true.. anyways ive been wondering the same thing.. i have eliminated bs, i also run 15w40 and my oil psi sits at 95-100 when cold. sits at 18-30 at about 1k warm. And the whole 10 psi for every 1k does not apply to me LOL anyways when i hit about 3k my oil psi is at about 80 and at 5k its at100. So is that normal? Or do i have an issue? And those numbers are at a coolant temp of 200+. Any info would be great. Ive already gone thru a couple of threads and some ppl say its okay. Some people say its way too high. So not too helpful LOL

That sounds pretty normal to me if you have the BS removed and haven't done anything to try lower the oil pressure. What's your pressure at higher rpms?

My 1G cruised at 90psi hot with the OFH somewhat ported (idled at 90 cold) with 20w-50. I cut a coil off the relief spring and that brought it down so it doesn't really go over 70 if I remember correctly.
 
The highest ive gone so far is 5k cause im worried if the oil psi is too high. I havent tried hitting higher then that, and unfortunetely my guage only reads up to 100
. But does that pressure seem okay to run? I dont want to blow seals or damage any internals. Ive heard the higher the press the better but i think it might be overdoing it. Whats the ideal pressure you want to be running at? I dont want to overdoit but i also dont wanna starve my engine.
 
Try this. It worked wonders for my friend and I. Not to mention it's a lot less work than porting.

Oil Filter Housing Spring : JNZ Tuning

thanks for the link :) but yeah ive been thinking on just taking the spring out and cutting a coil or 2?. but i would like to know what pressure is safe? under 100 at 7-8k? or lower? of course my car does get a little abused LOL so i would really like numbers that wont overdo or starve my engine. so pretty much "ideal" LOL and would that spring work for both 1g and 2g?
thanks for the replies :)

Okay so i did the trick of cutting the spring. Now my psi is sitting at 15 psi at idle and 70 at wot. Is that too low? Cause if it is then i can raise it some with so washers LOL
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top