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Oil Flush? [Merged 9-7] engine Gunk flushing treatment

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DeathBeast

20+ Year Contributor
177
0
Mar 29, 2002
Bay Area, California
Is there such a product? Is there a way to flush out the system without buying a whole bunch of oil?

Here is why:
I had an extra box of Mobil 1 that I bought for the Talon, and I tuned up the girlfriends Jeep. Now the oil presure on her jeep is staying low, and the jeep is running like crap!

-Can mixing synthetic w/ regular oil do this?
-How would I go about flushing the system?

Thanx,
DeathBeast
 
spyder97gs said:
The majority of "motor flushes" are mainly kerosene. It burns very hot, and in turn it burns all the old deposits away, or atleast "free's" them and they would end up in your oil pan. You can see how dirty everything was by the smoke coming out of your exhaust. In my case it was very little.
If you're burning anything you add to the crankcase, you have more to be concerned with than deposits.
 
FunkMasterChipZ said:
isnt using kerosene in ur engine anywhere in the engine, Illegal? i know it is for diesils :rolleyes:

It's only ran at Idle, so the car is never driven with kerosene in the motor. I've never heard of that law though. When dealerships flush your motor out, they infact use a kerosene mixture. It may not be as much kerosene as I use, but they do use it. I've heard of people using a 100% kerosene mixture.
 
Defiant said:
A divergent view: We flush toilets.

If you suspect someone's crapped in your engine, then it'd need flushing.


Contemporary oils, with reasonable oil change intervals, will clean out anything that tries to "deposit" by the miracle that is their additives package.

And I'm one of the ones who can find no reasonable excuse for RESTORE to work, but it shut up the lifters on my 135K-mile '93.

Used according to their instructions, I don't think any engine flush will hurt anything. I just don't think there's $3 worth of "good" they do, either.

Nothing wrong with all those sludge deposits getting unlodged and circulated throughout your engine huh? Ever drop an oil pan after "flushing" an engine? Didn't think so.

Nobody competent would EVER recommend a flushing/cleaning additive to be added to the crankcase.
 
i was lookin on doing a motor flush to my car since its never had one but i know if i leave my oil feed line attached to the turbo i will blow out the seals wit the motor flush, is there a way i can re-circulate my oil feed line on my turbo so i can bypass the turbo while i run a motor flush on the car????
 
Eclipsemblue said:
i was lookin on doing a motor flush to my car since its never had one but i know if i leave my oil feed line attached to the turbo i will blow out the seals wit the motor flush, is there a way i can re-circulate my oil feed line on my turbo so i can bypass the turbo while i run a motor flush on the car????

If you bypass the turbo, the ball bearing will wear down. You dont have to flush your engine with something that goes in the oil. Try some seafoam.
 
I don't think your seals are in any danger.

Buy 2 cans of sea-foam. Dump one in each cylinder (split 4 ways obviously), half in the gas and half in the oil. Let it sit for a few hours/over-night, drive for a while then change your oil.
 
xveganxcowboyx said:
I don't think your seals are in any danger.

Buy 2 cans of sea-foam. Dump one in each cylinder (split 4 ways obviously), half in the gas and half in the oil. Let it sit for a few hours/over-night, drive for a while then change your oil.

Dumping strait into the cylinders wont have any change of effect over strait into the crankcase.

My proven formula is one in the crankcase and one in the vacuum line. That way you clean out your intake manifold and TB if you pick the right line too.
 
I've done the TB vacuum line as well.

After doing the crank-case addition a couple times I went for the straight into my cylinders method. It got quite a bit that didn't cook off before.
 
I had a new 16G turbo put on about 2 months ago and I've been running hard on the expressway because my job is 60 miles away. The other day I went to check my oil level and the oil was very dirty and realy black, it smelled burnt. The original owner of the car only used Mobile 1 and I continued that per his recomendation, but since its winter I switched from 10w-30 to 5w-30. I don't have a turbo timer but I do let the car idle down after long or hard drives, I also let the car warm up about 15-20 mins before I drive since its winter and sits in the open(no garage), I am concerened about oil coking and would like to do an engine flush wit my next oil change. I know engine flushes are very abrasive and I'm concerened on if it will damage my turbo. Can some of you guys chime in, thoughts, opinions, on engine flushes and our cars please.
 
I don't know of any abrasive component to engine flushes.
Flushing is for toilets. You're already (wasting money by) using a synthetic. One of their many superiorities (that aren't needed in automotive engines) is their ability to suspend contaminants, which is why it looks "burnt". That's almost half of an engine oil's job. Anything can lube a bearing, it's getting it to live around valve guide heat that's the trick.
A DSM should be up to operating temperature in five minutes. If yours is taking fifteen or twenty, your thermostat is leaking, even there on the dark side of Mars. Such extended idling will contribute to oil breakdown; that you've had the car two months and are already throwing away a sump full of synthetic is a waste. Your 60 mile commute is one of the best things being done to your oil, in cooking out any condensation.
 
I wont debate the superiority of synthetic vs. fossil based oil but what Defiant said about improved ability to suspend contaminants is right on. I have used Red Line, Royal Purple, and Amsoil synthetics but switched over to regular (non-synthetic) Valvoline mainly for $$ reasons. The Valvoline always comes out looking relatively clean.
If you want to do the flush you can also consider Seafoam. There are many posts about using it in the crankcase. Most seemed satisfied.
I have read that it's ok to drive once oil pressure is within normal range. Our cars tend to idle rich, esp. in cold weather. Prolonged idling on a regular basis may allow unburnt fuel to seep into the oil.
 
Defiant the car doesn't take long at all to warm up at all, but I'm in michigan, and stay in an apartment and our parking lot is adjacent to an open field, so the cars get realy blasted by cold wind and snow drifts, water and ice. As far as the engine flush, the 2 main additives are usualy a detergent and an abrasive, which is why youre not supposed to leave them in with the oil because they will wreak havoc on the internal parts once theyve done theyre job. I have never owned a turbo car before, just domestic V8's, I only used the mobile 1, because the guy I bought the car from bought it new, and thats all he ever used. I usualy like Quaker state or Castrol non synth oil, the original owner also commuted about 50 miles to work everyday, and the car has 120,000 miles on it. Seeing as I had to replace the turbo and manifold 2 weeks after I got it (bought the car for $4000), I dont wanna have to do that again anytime soon, especialy during the winter. So I shouldnt have a prob goin to a regular oil, and a flush is ok then...

Romeen I just read your comment on the rich idle..from now on I'll only warm it about 10 mins
 
synthetic is bad? what?

Not in the slightest. Not even implied. It's far superior. It does most things an order of magnitude better than traditional motor oils do.

None of which you need in a gasoline engine, and especially not when doing the pointless 3000-mile oil changes so many here are fond of. With 1990's available oil, the factory change interval was 5000 miles, and that's with the usual "we don't want to buy warrantied engines" from the bean counters at the factory.

Oil doesn't wear out. The additive package in the oil does. Oil undergoes some mechanical damage at the cam/follower interface where its long molecules are actually chopped apart, which is greatly reduced in the DSM's roller follower design.

Obsessing can be good. The habit of checking where your wallet is every five minutes can prove especially beneficial. It won't hurt anything -other than that wallet's content- to do "too many" oil changes. It simply isn't needed with any contemporary off-the-shelf oil brand that has a name you've ever heard of.
 
Defiant, you do know that several cars come with synthetic from the factory and is the only recomended type of oil to use.

Corvette, Cadillac, Porsche, some models of Mercedes, and BMW, and I believe Ferrari was recently added to the list. They all come from the factory with Mobile 1.
 
Defiant, you do know that several cars come with synthetic from the factory and is the only recomended type of oil to use.

Corvette, Cadillac, Porsche, some models of Mercedes, and BMW, and I believe Ferrari was recently added to the list. They all come from the factory with Mobile 1.

Did he down synthetic, no.... what is your point by this post?

The point in synthetic oil is to reduce change intervals. The factory service manual recommends you change the conventional oil only every 5000 miles. With synthetic, you can theoretically go much longer then that assuming you have a decent oil filter and no leaks.

I am using Mobil Synth 15000 with a Mobil EP Filter. I change my filter twice a year, and my oil once a year on all my vehicles. (Unless there is some special need to do so sooner) The oil comes out nice and clean with a slightly darker tint to it.
 
I just wanted to give an update on this. I did the engine flush and put Castrol 5w-30 in it, and now I have a horrible lifter tick. I'm going to give it a few days and if it doesnt get better, I'm going bact to mobile 1.

and TSIMonsteR the point of that post was informational purposes only it was general, I'm sure a lot of members didnt know that, puts a different light on the regular vs. synthetic debate.
 
I thought this post started out with the question of whether or not engine flushes are bad. But anyways. My cousin had the same lifter tick problem when he switched to diferent oil. The mitsubishi dealership out here told him to switch back to mobil 1 and it went away afterwards.
 
Today it wasnt very cold here but when I started the car you could REALY hear the tick. I let it run for 10 mins to see if it would quiet down and it didnt. I wondered if it was the flush (I used seafoam in the oil, didn't do the intake or gas tank) and the different oil. It was so loud I was scared it was going to damage the motor, so I went ahead and bit the bullet and put mobile 1 back in it. the tick quieted down a lot but didnt go away completely. After I changed it, I drove around a lil and it went away, after 5 starts no tick...so I guess I'm stuck using mobile 1.
 
Defiant, you do know that several cars come with synthetic from the factory and is the only recomended type of oil to use.

Corvette, Cadillac, Porsche, some models of Mercedes, and BMW, and I believe Ferrari was recently added to the list. They all come from the factory with Mobile 1.

And what do you suppose the factories pay for that oil? How about free, so long as they tell the world they use it? You think Duracell batteries work better in pacemakers than any other? Is Tylenol the best pain reliever because the hospitals are given them as compensation?

Don't get suckered by marketing.

There's nothing wrong with synthetic oil. There's nothing wrong with having a pen barrel made out of 18k gold. But it makes the same kind of marks as a 30¢ Bic.
 
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