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Oil Flush? [Merged 9-7] engine Gunk flushing treatment

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DeathBeast

20+ Year Contributor
177
0
Mar 29, 2002
Bay Area, California
Is there such a product? Is there a way to flush out the system without buying a whole bunch of oil?

Here is why:
I had an extra box of Mobil 1 that I bought for the Talon, and I tuned up the girlfriends Jeep. Now the oil presure on her jeep is staying low, and the jeep is running like crap!

-Can mixing synthetic w/ regular oil do this?
-How would I go about flushing the system?

Thanx,
DeathBeast
 
Ok the best way to do any type of engine flush is to use tranny(the red stuff for dummies) fluid and run it for about 2-5mins. then drain it and change the filter. Ok heres the part were the certified mechanic(that would be me) is going to teach you a valuble lesson. Dont do any type engine flush unless you do it from the begininng of the eniges life, i.e. the first 15k-30k and in steady regular intervals not missing one. If you do that then go ahead and flush it, not with a can but with tranny fluid. If you havent ever done a flush then DO NOT FLUSH THE ENGINE!!! thats the best advice youll get from a mech. By now your cars oil has somewhat sludged clogging any "might be" leaks, cleaning this "sludge" will most definatley cause a leak or"seapage". If you do go thru with it and it doesnt leak then you didnt flush it properly, or that "can-o-sh*t" didnt do what it advertised.

Trust me if its the first time in the engines life and it has more than 50k DONT DO IT!
Andrew
 
Originally posted by DSMeclipse4G63
Ok heres the part were the certified mechanic(that would be me) is going to teach you a valuble lesson. Dont do any type engine flush unless you do it from the begininng of the eniges life, i.e. the first 15k-30k and in steady regular intervals not missing one. If you havent ever done a flush then DO NOT FLUSH THE ENGINE!!! thats the best advice youll get from a mech. By now your cars oil has somewhat sludged clogging any "might be" leaks, cleaning this "sludge" will most definatley cause a leak or"seapage".
With all respect and deference, I don't quite go along with this one. Every fresh oil change -and in this crowd, that often occurs at the absurd 3000-mile interval- introduces a nice, fresh package of detergents and surfactants in the oil.

There was talk in the old days (when someone else pumped your gas for free, and checked your oil, tire pressures, battery, washer fluid and washed the windshield) that switching from the old, reliable "non-detergent" to the new-fangled "detergent" motor oil (which everyone knew would wash out your bearings [?!?!??]) would produce a similar effect. According to Road & Track in the seventies, Cornell University put this to the test, running-in an engine with non-detergent, accumulating mileage on it, and then switching straight to a detergent oil. There was no sudden release of deposits, they were slowly carried off and suspended by the new oil, and no damage occured to the engine.

Well, I wasn't there. It's just more stuff I read about. It's just that all these tales about deposits-and-flushes and mineral-to-synthetic changes seem to have a common weave. Nothing against you.
 
Originally posted by clownface
dosnt it get rid of deposits of old clumpy oil?:confused: i used that gunk stuff once and after that change my lifter tick seemed to vanish, all in my head maybe? or was it just chance?

This is not 1980. Unless the motor has not been taken care of or dirt has been poured in the oil fill, regular oil changes are all that are needed. They are called snake oil for a reason. Its another gimmick to get you to buy crap you don't need. Yeah, that stuff actually exists and there are people who want to screw you over. Didn't you listen to your mother? ;)

-Groomz
 
Not to dredge up this thread, but the only time I've ever flushed my engine was when I first bought it. Even though the previous owner supposedly did regular oil changes, I spent the $5 or whatever it costs and did the flush, then promptly filled her up with Synthetic oil and a fresh filter. Can't say I noticed much difference (if any).

However- on a side note, it has recenetly come to my attention that some of these engine flush products state on the instructions that they are not recommended for turbocharged engines . . . :confused:
 
yah i seen that, thats what gave me the idea, i cant get seafoam where i live, i will use MCCC instead to clean the combustion chamber then followed by the gunk motor flush.
 
After doing some research I have found mixed reviews on a motor flush being good and bad.
A flush with an additive removes engine contaminates but causes increased oil leaks in older engines.
So what if, you flushed it and used restore* to seal the imperfections. From what i have researched restore works, no one knows why.

If motor flushing is bad, what other options do I have. AutoRX maybe?
 
This is want I did a couple of months ago, I flush the engine with GUNK by letting the car run for 5 minutes with GUNK and then change the oil. After the oil change, I put the engine restore that I bought at Advance Auto Parts and had no problems with it. Flushing engine removes the majority of desposit buildup. The restore helps micro leaks leaks in the engine so it is wise to use the flush first change the oil and add the engine restore. My engine ran alot better after I did this. Just remember not to drive your car with the engine flush juice, it will do serious damage to your internals. Just read the directions on those products before using them. :D
 
A divergent view: We flush toilets.

If you suspect someone's crapped in your engine, then it'd need flushing.


Contemporary oils, with reasonable oil change intervals, will clean out anything that tries to "deposit" by the miracle that is their additives package.

And I'm one of the ones who can find no reasonable excuse for RESTORE to work, but it shut up the lifters on my 135K-mile '93.

Used according to their instructions, I don't think any engine flush will hurt anything. I just don't think there's $3 worth of "good" they do, either.
 
Im a believer in the kerosene flush. I use to do it regularly on a 153k motor in my probe and I've now done it to my 114k 2.4 motor. I run 3 quarts of kerosene and 1.5 of cheap oil for 15 minutes at IDLE only. It significantly reduces HLA tick. One the 15 minutes are up drain it and remove the new filter that you used just for the kerosene, replace it and refill the oil with an oil of your choice. I use Pennzoil. Just my thoughts, but its worth a shot.
 
The majority of "motor flushes" are mainly kerosene. It burns very hot, and in turn it burns all the old deposits away, or atleast "free's" them and they would end up in your oil pan. You can see how dirty everything was by the smoke coming out of your exhaust. In my case it was very little.
 
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