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Oil Flush? [Merged 9-7] engine Gunk flushing treatment

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DeathBeast

20+ Year Contributor
177
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Mar 29, 2002
Bay Area, California
Is there such a product? Is there a way to flush out the system without buying a whole bunch of oil?

Here is why:
I had an extra box of Mobil 1 that I bought for the Talon, and I tuned up the girlfriends Jeep. Now the oil presure on her jeep is staying low, and the jeep is running like crap!

-Can mixing synthetic w/ regular oil do this?
-How would I go about flushing the system?

Thanx,
DeathBeast
 
Originally posted by Defiant
You can't buy bad oil anymore, within reason. But there's gangs of bad myths out there.

This I agree with to a point there are superior oils, but you won't know the different until you are really pushing the limits.

There's no point in flushing modern automotive engines.

Just curious how you came to this conclusion? flushing, running a load of cheap dino oil through, and refilling keeps gum and varnish off of surfaces along with cleaning out any form of sludge and/or preventing it from starting. If you own an SR20DE it's recommended you do a flush no questions asked. The cam oilers have a tendancy to clog a bit.

When it comes to oil flow...the more the better, period.
 
Originally posted by JayHass


Just curious how you came to this conclusion? flushing, running a load of cheap dino oil through, and refilling keeps gum and varnish off of surfaces along with cleaning out any form of sludge and/or preventing it from starting. If you own an SR20DE it's recommended you do a flush no questions asked. The cam oilers have a tendancy to clog a bit.

I don't know that motor, is that the Skyline one? I don't know of its specific nuances.
My conclusion comes from driving and building motors: I've not run across a benefit to flushing, nor a drawback from not. But I hear lots of things on the forums I'd not before- few of them I will really call _wrong_, but many I just don't get the point of- such as 3000-mile oil changes. ;)
 
No, that's the SE-R and Silvia 4 cylinder.

I've not run across a benefit to flushing, nor a drawback from not.

Cool, just curious. I don't flush all my cars, just the cars I want my oil to be "golden" and the head surfaces to be bare aluminum in. Then again, I'm also the super anal guy who dumps Mobile1 as early as 1K miles if I get the urge. :D
 
I bought GUNK Motor Flush, My engine has 75,000 miles on it, its a 95 TSi, What do you guys think? Should I put it in, Im gonna do the oil change today and put in valvoline racing oil, also, K & n performance oil filter, and another cleaning question. I bought Something calle Super 104 Ocane boost, it claims to clean the injectyor and fuel system and all compnents, Is good or bad, quick help would be appreciated since I am planning on changing, the oil, plugs, wires, and cleaning whole system today
 
I TRIED GUNK MOTOR FLUSH AT 70000 AND IT CLEANED IT UP FOR A LITTLE BIT THEN IT WENT BACK TO TICKING I DONT THINK ITS WORTH THE 4 DOLLARS BUT IF YOU USE THAT STUFF...DONT GET IT ON YOUR VALVE COVER OR KEEP IT IN THERE MORE THEN THE SPECIFIED TIME OTHERWISE IT WILL EAT YOUR GASKETS AND ENGINE...FUEL INJECTOR CLEANER IS GOOD...GETS RID OF THE SOME BUILD UP....HAVE FUN...:dsm:
 
My car has 147,000 miles on it. I was thinking about using this. Has anyone ever used this, or anything like it?



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Dont. Your engine has alot of miles true, might seem like a good idea but its not. What it supposedly does is clean out the inside of the motor. Any sealing your motor has built up over the years might get cleaned out too, which means it may smoke more than it already does.

You might see something similiar offered at dealerships and shops, a big machine that pumps a liquid through your motor. I wouldnt reccomend this either unless you get a brand new car and get it done at regular intervals maybe. Even then, I wager its just another useless thing to sell so they can get your money.

If all this crap really worked cars would be running forever. Prolong, slick 50, Z-max, etc garbage like that is a waste of money. You only want to put one thing in your motor, every 3K miles, OIL. :)


Most good modern oils have cleaning agents too help control dirt etc.
 
I dont agree with the "sealing sludge" idea, but do agree on not using it. And despite its odd popularity here, 3,000 miles of oil usage is wasting the oil by at least half. 5,000 mile changes are soon enough.

With modern oils and their detergent packages, I say there's no need for a flushing fluid.
 
Sounds like a recipe for short engine life and lots of oil caking inside the engine oil.

There's two schedules put out by the manufacturers for preventative maintenance in the us. One is the schedule A which is a bunch of crap. They came out with this schedule for the ideal driver who truly does not exist. This schedule says 7,500 mile intervals for drivers who don't: drive in 100+ degree weather, don't drive in stop and go traffic, don't take short trips (10 or less miles) on a regular basis, don't drive in dusty conditions, don't drive in freezing weather, and basically.... don't drive the car. The manufacturers have this schedule made up so they can comply with EPA rules and regulations, match their competitors annual expense estimates for preventative maintenance and to make the car sound less expensive and more affordable to the average joe.

There's a reason why every single repair shop, quick lube oil changer, jiffy lube, quick ten, every dealership, and everybody's mama says to change your oil every 3,000 miles with conventional motor oil. It's because that's what it's going to take to make sure your engine does not get caked up with sludge, oil lose it's viscosity and run more efficiently.

The oil has cleaning detergants in it yes, but it also has retention characteristics as well. The reason why oil gets discolored is because it collects all the contaminants from the crankcase, oil pan, cylinder walls, and every other component they come in contact with. Running engine oil too long with allow the engine oil to redeposit all the contaminants back on to the engine, increase friction on bearing surfaces, clog up the pcv system, and increase the amount of wear on the engine.

5,000 miles is too many for the average driver with conventional motor oil. If you run a fully synthetic oil then they advertise you can run 7,000 miles give or take on a single oil change. This does NOT, however, mean you never have to check your oil levels. Crankcase pressures build up and subsequently forces oil in to the intake system. Feel free to read up on oil catch cans to back that up. Not only does the oil go in to the intake manifold but also in to the intercooler (which reduces it's ability to cool the air). If you ever noticed how much oil was lost just between a 3,000 mile interval imagine how much more is going to be gone driving nearly double that.

Now I'm gonna bring up the fact that there are very few people on this board that come here just for information on driving a car in it's normal manor. We demand more from our cars than the average driver, we drive it at higher RPM's on a daily basis, accelerate rapidly, slow down quickly, turn harder, and honestly... beat the crap out of it. The more of a demand we put on our cars, the more care is needed to make sure the car can respond the way we want it and last as long as possible.

It's truly amazing the number of cars that require an engine before they even run out of warranty because of missed oil changes and prolonged driving on the same oil. I've seen engines caked with oil at 30,000 miles, and others knocking at 60,000 miles because the clown driving the car missed the occasional oil change or thought they didn't apply to the 3,000 mile interval maintenance schedule.

On conventional motor oil, a 5,000 mile oil change interval for the type of person that frequents this board is by far the worst advice I've seen yet.
Doug
 
Originally posted by Doug99RS
There's a reason why every single repair shop, quick lube oil changer, jiffy lube, quick ten, every dealership, and everybody's mama says to change your oil every 3,000 miles with conventional motor oil.
Yeh. They call it "profit".

My '69 Datsun 2000's current motor is at 185,000 miles on one ring job. When it was built, the best API service rating available to the common consumer was SE/CC. We're now up to SG/CD. My '84 200SX Turbo went 170K before a pulled exhaust stud, rotted exhaust manifold and leaking heater plumbing finally drove me to getting my '94 TSi AWD, currently at 135,000 miles.

Your oil usage may vary. Mine does. It's just never been a thing to really panic about for me.

But we'd be better-off talking politics or religion. Or, blurring the division and talking abortion.
 
There's no money in oil changes. Everyone knows that. Upsells... yes, but the oil change alone there is none. And if you're doing your own oil changes then theres not even the chance of an upsell since you never cross their doorstep.

There was enough clarity in my point. The typical person that drives the way we do and puts on performance parts like we do should not jeopardize the longevity of the engine because they are too cheap, lazy, or ignorant to do their own oil changes every 3,000 miles.

When the person maintaining the book goes above and beyond the normal recomended requirements for maintaining their vehicle then it's ok to let some things vary. But the average person that floats through these forums does NOT quite grasp how much wear and tear is put on a car in it's normal use much less the increased wear from more aggressive driving.

That's my point.
Doug
 
royal purple bites...read the review i belive on dsmtalk ...the findings were pretty surprising...i run Amsoil or a brand that i get wholesale which are both top notch..latez
 
Will using motor 5 min before a oil change mess up our engines gaskets leading to oil leaks?
 

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I use ATF with Dexron, it has alot of detergents in it. Of course I change my oil every 45 to 60 days. I drive way too much...
 
Originally posted by flipnoy213
Will using motor 5 min before a oil change mess up our engines gaskets leading to oil leaks?
No.

But it won't help anything, either. What makes you think your motor might have shit in it that needs to be flushed? What have you been up to?

Spend the money on wax instead.
 
Originally posted by Defiant
No.

But it won't help anything, either. What makes you think your motor might have shit in it that needs to be flushed? What have you been up to?

Spend the money on wax instead.

dosnt it get rid of deposits of old clumpy oil?:confused: i used that gunk stuff once and after that change my lifter tick seemed to vanish, all in my head maybe? or was it just chance?
 
used it on my other car once and it helped drained the oil faster and when i put in new oil it looks much cleaner on the dip stick then when i dont use it
 
This is pretty similiar to the synthetic from mineral switch. If the car has regular oil change intervals then the engine flush isn't going to cause leaks, but at the same time if it was regularly changed chances are its not going to remove much gunk if at all.
 
i got the nuts to try it...and wasn't to impressed...oil looked the same. even took off the oil pan to look just incase the oil deposits got stuck to the pan(nothing new that i haven't seen before in my pan)., just if you decide to use it. i heard that if you leave it in there to long it can start destroy your seals. and dont let it drip on the valve cover, it will strip it. its pretty much acts as a paint thinner. and my tick was still there.
 
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