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oil cooled big 16g good or bad?

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
so i just noticed my mhi big 16g turbo is oil cooled so i was wondering if i will get coking inside and failure? i always let my car idle before i turn it off and i run mobil 1 10w-30 fully synthetic motor oil which i heard these 2 things wont cause coking?

or is it best to run them coolant lines to the turbo to be safe?
 
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I've ran my mhi turbos without coolant line for awhile without issues. As long as you let it cool for a bit before you shut it down. The coolant lines are there to give extra protection against hot shutdowns. Of course it isn't a bad idea to run them unless one of the lines leaks and can run you out of coolant, LOL
What happened to your 2g? Where did you get this 1g?
 
I've ran my mhi turbos without coolant line for awhile without issues. As long as you let it cool for a bit before you shut it down. The coolant lines are there to give extra protection against hot shutdowns. Of course it isn't a bad idea to run them unless one of the lines leaks and can run you out of coolant, LOL
What happened to your 2g? Where did you get this 1g?

sold it now i got this 1g and trying to get it right.

so since my turbo is oil cooled do i have to let it idle for a couple minutes after a long drive cause right now i dont have a turbo timer so when i get into high rpms and stuff i let it idle for like 4-5minutes.

should those holes have screws in them where i pointed the arrows or its ok to leave them like that since im not running coolant lines?
 
It would be best to run the coolant lines, as said before is helps to gaurd against hot shutdown coking.

You do not have to plug the water/coolant line ports in the center housing if you are not running the water/coolant lines.

If you let it idle for a few minutes after a long or spirited drive that should be good enough to gaurd against heat soak back coking. Just an FYI, there is also a thing called dynamic coking where the oil between the shaft and bearing gets too hot and cokes during operation, a water cooled CHRA will not help this. A water cooled CHRA only helps against hot shutdown/heat soak back coking.

Bill
 
It would be best to run the coolant lines, as said before is helps to gaurd against hot shutdown coking.

You do not have to plug the water/coolant line ports in the center housing if you are not running the water/coolant lines.

If you let it idle for a few minutes after a long or spirited drive that should be good enough to gaurd against heat soak back coking. Just an FYI, there is also a thing called dynamic coking where the oil between the shaft and bearing gets too hot and cokes during operation, a water cooled CHRA will not help this. A water cooled CHRA only helps against hot shutdown/heat soak back coking.

Bill

kool yea i dont turn my car off ever right away i always let it idle so i think i should be fine but i will ###### do the lines in the future.
 
Looks like an oil/water cooled center section to me. Why not run the coolant lines?

My FP 18g has an oil only center section. Its been fine for 5 years now. I only turbo time if I've ran it hard.
 
Looks like an oil/water cooled center section to me. Why not run the coolant lines?

My FP 18g has an oil only center section. Its been fine for 5 years now. I only turbo time if I've ran it hard.

Well for me i think that every aftermarket turbo should be turbo time but since colors are made for preference everyone has a distinct taste ;) any ways is good to turbo time your turbo i mean about 40$WTF can save you from an expensive 400$+ rebuiltOMG thats just awsome dont you think:confused:?....
 
Yes I have a turbo timer. I only activate it if my car/turbo has run hard. Otherwise its a waste of gas and time.

Why do I need to turbo time it after I've driven home from work and the turbo might have seen 5 psi throughout the drive? Pretty sure I'm not cooking oil there.

I rarely drive my car hard. I drive it from point A to B (which is like 80% of the time) I have no reason to push it. Only on rare occasions when someone doesn't want to let me merge or something, then I just force my way in with power! heh. Anyways I treat my car like the baby it is cause if I push it too much it will throw a terrible fit as we all know!
 
It will not hurt anything to run it without the coolant going to the turbo, as many aftermarket turbos are setup this way, however if you do not do the proper cooldown cycle (which Mitsubishi recommends after running the stock water cooled turbos hard) you will have serious oil coking issues and will destroy the turbo. If it were me, I would run them just so it was one less thing to worry about. My guess is that someone had a larger, oil cooled turbo on it at one point and lost/threw away the coolant lines. When they switched back, they just left them off.
 
Yes I have a turbo timer. I only activate it if my car/turbo has run hard. Otherwise its a waste of gas and time.

Why do I need to turbo time it after I've driven home from work and the turbo might have seen 5 psi throughout the drive? Pretty sure I'm not cooking oil there.

I rarely drive my car hard. I drive it from point A to B (which is like 80% of the time) I have no reason to push it. Only on rare occasions when someone doesn't want to let me merge or something, then I just force my way in with power! heh. Anyways I treat my car like the baby it is cause if I push it too much it will throw a terrible fit as we all know!

It doesn't take driving hard and high boost to get the turbo pretty hot. Drive at 70mph for 5-10 min at night(no boost only vacuum), pull over and pop the hood in a dark place. You will see the manifold, and turbine housing glowing a bit.

To the OP, I ran a B16g for around 15k miles without the water lines, it went on to run in two other cars and is now just sitting around. Has no more shaft play than it had when I started and doesn't burn oil.
 
i always found water-cooled turbos to be a pain in the ass on the cooling system. they usually boil over the coolant after you shut them down, so for me no matter what, there is always a little air in the coolant.
 
I have a turbo timer. . . It's called my common sense. I stay in the car for a minute or two and let it idle after driving to let the turbo cool. ;)

I drove around beating my 18g for years, which had no ports for coolant lines. Always did the above.
 
It doesn't take driving hard and high boost to get the turbo pretty hot. Drive at 70mph for 5-10 min at night(no boost only vacuum), pull over and pop the hood in a dark place. You will see the manifold, and turbine housing glowing a bit.

To the OP, I ran a B16g for around 15k miles without the water lines, it went on to run in two other cars and is now just sitting around. Has no more shaft play than it had when I started and doesn't burn oil.

but shouldnt i put some banjo bolts if im not running the lines or it doesnt matter cause right now as u see in the picture above i dont have those bolts in the holes..
 
Post #3
should those holes have screws in them where i pointed the arrows or its ok to leave them like that since im not running coolant lines?

Post #12
wouldnt i be leaking if i dont bolt up those 2 opening where the coolant lines go to or i dont have to?

Post #16
but shouldnt i put some banjo bolts if im not running the lines or it doesnt matter cause right now as u see in the picture above i dont have those bolts in the holes..

Do you even read what people are telling you? You've asked the same question 3 times and it's already been answered. However if you want to put a bolt in there then just do it.

Post #4
You do not have to plug the water/coolant line ports in the center housing if you are not running the water/coolant lines.
 
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