Oil Catch Can Install?

[b-morr]

I have this one http://www.extremepsi.com/store/cust...cat=731&page=1

I was wondering, do I just connect the breather hose from the valve cover to one of the top nipples on the can, then my hose to my intake to the bottom side nipple. And then plug the other top nipple on the can and I'm good to go? I'm not eliminating my PCV.

Thanks,
Brian

 

[Black94DSM]

One can also argue that this way is also incorrect too. He is running a stock 2g mas. This is metering air as it enters into the system, now with his vented breather at the valve cover the air that should be going back into the intake that the fuel system is supposed to compensate for is not going back into there.

 

[dsmcurse]

dude, that crank case air breathing back into system is a very minute amount. its not enough for the maf to read any how. not to mention the stock hose is a piss tube lil 5/16". its just enough to blow crap oil blowby in there. if any thin it hurts the maf cause overtime the back section of the honey comb would get oil on it. think the karmen signal can read air properley when its covered in oil? no. not breathing the crankcase relief into the air filter tube absolutley will not have any effect on the maf. the thing reads back flow from the by pass valve. notice his bov vents to atmosphere any how? this car is clean as hell i bet it runs great. when he lets off the gas between shifts the maf dont register the back flow so maybe a tiny bit richer than normal. sure he has some thin that does the correction any how. not recycling your blow off valve back to intake really only has the ill side effects when driving slow and normal. like lettin off the gas slowin down for a stop sign, the idle tends to bog down a bit further than one would desire. but as far as the lil 5/16" not goin back into it. not side effects at all. i garrentee its better to eliminate that stock style of doin it vs keepin it that way. like i said oil blow by on the back of the maf is no good

 

[lacroixdp]

dude, that crank case air breathing back into system is a very minute amount. its not enough for the maf to read any how.

For a daily driven car, you want to retain the basic layout that Mitsubishi designed for the PCV system. The whole purpose of a PCV system is to remove harmful contaminants from your crankcase. It is very hard on your oil, and subsequently your bearings, to deviate from the PCV system's design for our motors. If you are doing a drag-only setup, Mobile_DSM's system would be fine. However, it is not a proper setup for a car that's expected to last a long time and expected to go long miles between oil changes. It also does not have a provision for introducing fresh air into the crankcase. If you feel you need a catch can, put one in between the intake manifold and PCV valve, along with one of these:
Check Valves - US Plastic Corporation
You can also put a catch can in between the valve cover and the intake tube if you feel it is necessary.

You do not want to use a breather filter in place of the intake tube hose because it introduces unmetered air into your intake system. This unmetered air will cause you to run leaner than your car is designed to do, which is not a good thing. Contrary to above, this unmetered air is significant enough to cause issues - it is the equivalent to having a vacuum hose not hooked up, which we all know is bad. If you must use a breather filter in place of the intake tube, you can do this properly with a speed density setup.

 

[Black94DSM]

Pay attention to the area near the hood mount on the left side. The air being blown out is from his catch can. Is that not a lot of air?

<object width="560" height="340"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/4wGFoL9Cf8k&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/4wGFoL9Cf8k&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="560" height="340"></embed></object>

 

[snowborder714]

For a proper setup, you will want vacuum in the system, which is usually achieved by running a line from the catch can to the intake pipe. An even better setup would be 2 catch cans in line in the stock setup.

 

[dsmcurse]

either way you do it, the point is that the factory 5/16 line the factory uses is no longer effecive when moddin for power. the two tiny little 5/16" hoses off the factory valve cove just can not properly relieve the blow by and crankcase air. i think that we can all agree that bumping up to 1/2" line or 5/8" line is a must. all these high powered 4cylinder cars have fatty hose comin off the valve cover. pick up and import magazine and see for your self. honda guys weld weld 5/8 bungs on there valve covers, nissan toyota whatever. they all bump up to fatty hose. lets all just agree that the factory hose is indeed to small to acheive what the catch can is tryin to do.

 

[wangboy925]

Well I want to do a catch can install without having to tap into the valve cover. I did check the PCV valve to see if it works. It blows from one side and not the other so it is working just fine. I did realize how small of a hole on the PCV that goes into the valve cover has. Is there any way to modify this to make the hole bigger? Could I just cut out the small tubing part of the PCV?

Here's some pics of the bay and possible catch can mounting location.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[2gGSXEclipse]

Sorry for starting this thread back up but is Mobile DSM's set up right or is putting the can between the left side of the valve cover to the intake manifold the correct way to set it up?? Very confuzed on this whole thread...seems like 5 people have 5 different ways to set it up.

Also what do you guys think of Ebay catch cans....or is it really worth it to spend the $100-200 on a greddy catch can??

 

[xhackerekx]

i buy from ebay for $52 included shipping look nice and work perfect

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

To anyone that wants to run a simple catch can to prevent blow by oil from entering your pipes and throttle body and retain your PCV valve in the factory location, just run a line from the nipple on the passenger side of the valve cover to your catch can. Then cap the nipple on your pipe and call it a day. You only need one hose going to your catch can if you just want to prevent the blow by from accumulating in your pipes and throttle body. There are other methods that involve the PCV valve but is not what I am referring to.

Here are the catch can installation instructions from Road Race Engineering's website:
The small sized oil catch can / crankcase breather from Road Race Engineering has two fittings on it that can be used for oily air vapors coming from the valve cover. One fitting on the side will be used to go to the passenger side fitting on the valve cover. Un plug the hose that runs to the turbo intake boot (from the valve cover) and instead connect it to one of the side fittings on the catch can. Us the cap that was covering the catch can fitting to now cover the fitting on the turbo inlet boot. This way air can not leak into the boot. The bottom fitting is a drain

Here is a picture of my simple catch can setup:

 

[Code504]

thats sweet man. very nice. take notes boys.

Mines routed the same... just to the can (in my case a Monster can) no check valves no routing to the intake. Never had an issue... Catch cans are too easy...

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Here's how you properly install a catch can:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The pipes are 3/8" steel, the catch can is unvented, and contains baffles and steel mesh. One pipe from the right of the valve cover goes in through the top, and leads to the bottom of the can, the pipe from the side of the can draws only air from the top of the can. The siamese pipes are an important part of the design, because the oil condenses in the cool pipes, and never even makes it to the catch can. It condenses in the pipe and drains back into the valve cover due to gravity.

The PCV doesn't need a catch can because under boost the manifold has more pressure than the crankcase, and it's a one way valve by design.

Say what you want, but it works flawlessly, my pipes stay dry, and I have ZERO unmetered air. The most amazing part is that I don't even get oil in the catch can anymore. After 3000 miles of hard boosting and 1/4 mile passes, I get like a drop in the can.

 

[cooldude919]

To anyone that wants to run a simple catch can to prevent blow by oil from entering your pipes and throttle body and retain your PCV valve in the factory location, just run a line from the nipple on the passenger side of the valve cover to your catch can. Then cap the nipple on your pipe and call it a day. You only need one hose going to your catch can if you just want to prevent the blow by from accumulating in your pipes and throttle body. There are other methods that involve the PCV valve but is not what I am referring to.

Here are the catch can installation instructions from Road Race Engineering's website:
The small sized oil catch can / crankcase breather from Road Race Engineering has two fittings on it that can be used for oily air vapors coming from the valve cover. One fitting on the side will be used to go to the passenger side fitting on the valve cover. Un plug the hose that runs to the turbo intake boot (from the valve cover) and instead connect it to one of the side fittings on the catch can. Us the cap that was covering the catch can fitting to now cover the fitting on the turbo inlet boot. This way air can not leak into the boot. The bottom fitting is a drain

Here is a picture of my simple catch can setup:

So is this considered a good enough setup? I see 10 different posts/threads with 10 different ways to do it.

I plan to get a fp intake pipe with no recirc (will be going sd). So i should get a vented CC like the one above to use for my setup?

 

[giovanniv]

Bringing this back from the dead. Basically I have the same Megan catch can and I have a non recir. fp intake pipe and no I do not want to drill and tap a barb fitting on it. So I can run the side of the valve cover to the top of the catch can and the top pcv valve to the top of the catch can also and leave the bottom vented since it's like a drain hole? Or should I use my intake manifold barb (I have a BJS intake manny) also?

 

[keltalon]

yes there is in deed blow by. no matter how good a shape of engine you have if you start makin power you will have crankcase pressure. this presure releases through the valve cover. the stock set up is fine but start moddin and it is no longer adequate. the best thing you can do (in my opinion) is eliminate the pcv all together. first you got think the pcv just blows crap cantaminated air into the intake manni. do you really want this. i know i only want fresh cool as possible air goin into my intake manni. so plug that off. eliminate it all together. next the other breather vent that is on side of valve cover next to your cam angle sensor. eliminate that as well. that little piss tube cant breathe off the crank case pressure plus look where it goes. into your air filter tube thats connected to your turbo. agin i dont want my turbo to inhale dirty oil air. just completley eliminate both stock breathers. next your gonna take the oil baffle plate off from inside the valve cover. when you have it off look inside. youll see tiny little spot type welds that hold this oil baffle plate on. drill those tiny welds out and remove the plate. now you get 2 90degree 5/8" hose barb fittings and put them in the top of your valve cover. your gonna have to drill pretty decent sized holes in the top of you cover. try and make these holes just barley smaller than your hose barb fittings so that you can force them in there kinda snug. i put a tiny bit of jb weld on mine when i did this. i did it very clean tho. you cant see any jb crap. i put both of mine on the cas side one above intake and one above exhaust cam. after this you have to put the oil baffle plate back in. you can either try and duplicate how the factory did this with there tiny spot weld techniuqe. or you can pop rivit it back into on. i pop rivited my. every pop rivit got a drop of silicone at the head of it for double leak proof insurance. mine turned out totally clean man. look at my profile for pics. the one pic dont have any hose on it yet cause i took a pic when my engine wasnt all the way put together but you can totally see what i mean by the pic. send me a private message if you have any questions and ill go out to the shop and take a more detailed pic to send you. the next thing about this is the catch can itself. your gonna have 5/8"hose barbs goin into it with a nice fatty k&n style breather filter. like the ones the v8 guys put directly on there valve covers. have a clever little on/off valve drain device to bleed the oil outa the can. if you mount this on the fire wall your car will stink. the fumes will go into the cabin and you will smell the dirty crankcase air in your car. best place to mount your catch can(in my opinion) is in front of motor behind the passanger side head light. right next to the water over flow can. there you have it. a functional system that will properley releive all the crankcase pressure and it will look good. use to 5/8 ones dude. the lil piss tube 5/16 hose dont work. trust me there will still be alot of pressure in the system puttin tons a stress on all your important engine seals.

I know this thread is old but I can't take it this post is bull crap just got to say it