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Official 420A EGR Block-off Disscussion 2007

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It doesn't really matter too much. Blocking off either side will effectively disable it. You'll keep more heat out of the tube by blocking it off at the head, though.
 
Okay, so this thread gives very good information about how to block it off at the head and keep it partially functioning.

I have a question about the CEL concerning this. My interest in the whole 'block off the EGR' subject is just simply getting rid of the tube. We have the workaround for keeping the EGR valve functioning at the head, but will blocking off the port on the intake manifold cause a CEL?
 
OK so i put on a aftermarket obx style intake.. i block off the egr valve at the head and where the tube gore to the valve. but now i have a CEL... i was reading about how i could trick the computer by either drilling a hole in the lower half of the valve? or by notching out a piece on my block off at the head? does this actually work and cut the light out? just kinda confused on the whole thing....
 
ah, thread revival at its finest...

I read this entire thread and its just confused me more, even after looking at my EGR (got a P0401 CEL yesterday, which has brought the workings of my EGR to my attention) but after reading this thread Im thinking wouldnt it be possible to just run the exhaust intake line straight to the air intake, so that your only pulling air in ?
looking at my EGR setup makes me think that would be the easiest route to take, no need to dismantle anything, just run a bypass to avoid any exhaust.
but please correct me if I am wrong, will that continue to throw a CEL ?
 
You could shorten the EGR pipe and place the valve close to the manifold so it won't be seen, or possibly leave the solenoid intact without the EGR on it, introducing a small leak though the solenoid. This method (which is out of my ass, BTW, and I haven't put any thought into it) would allow you to completely remove the EGR and fully block off the head and intake, while being able to relocate the EGR solenoid to another location in the engine bay. Hopefully in the process, this would allow the vacuum leak introduced by the solenoid when activated to fulfill the flow requirements of the ECU during the EGR flow test.

Tomorrow, when it is light out, I will glance at the engine bay and consider the latter method. (I still have a fully functional EGR system, BTW)

Locke I have a similar question or situation going on...

When I put on my header (4-2-1), it didn't have any portion of piping for the EGR from the stock exhaust pipe that came on my 95 ESi. So I hooked it up without the EGR valve and the portion of the EGR system that was removed with the stock exhaust pipe had to go as well. This left the Pulsed Secondary Emissions Solenoid (PSES)(that which comes in line after the EGR) and the vaccuum line open. So I started to figure out what to do with the PSES until I found out mine had rusted out inside the connector and had broken prongs. So it wasn't functioning anyway. :nono: Should I cap off the vaccuum line or replace the solenoid and reattach it. Remember, my EGR value had to go anyway because of the header mod.

My car is running fine. NC does not check 95's for emissions so I don't care about the CEL. I pulled my bulb years ago because of the false codes that were characteristic of that year and model and I got tired of the light being on. I've not used the blockoff plates yet. My stock EGR system is intact except for the original exhaust pipe and header, the EGR valve is gone and the solenoid is broken.

What I want to know is what happens if I remove the Solenoid cause the valve itself is gone anyway?:hmm:
 
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My question is what creates more junk in the intake manifold? The EGRV or the valve cover vent to the intake piping?

And how much does a EGR-delete hurt the fuel economy of our cars?

I like my IM + TB proper and clean since it causes a lot of trouble when it's dirty, but I don't wanna have like 23mpg (atm I'm at 29mpg) with the EGR block-off.

I thought of making something like this (hope you can identify my idea):
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Only thing that will happen is that you will get a CEL. Doesn't really matter to you since you pulled your bulb.

What about the vacuum line? Right now I have it closed via an electric tie pulled tight around its rubber boot. Is there something else I should do for the vacuum line?

I also tried the resistor portion of this fix. It smoothed out the idle a little, but it caused it to idle a little higher.

YouTube - ‪Turbo 420a Idle Fix and EGR Check Engine Light Fix‬‏

Could the unattached vacuum line have caused the car to idle a little higher? It now idles at 1900 at first and then slowly comes down to 1150 from a cold start. My car used to idle at 1100. However, the needle did jump a little which is why I tried the fix.
 
Randy: Block off the head, so there is no exhaust leak. Leave the valve and the EGR tube in tact. Notch the surface of the EGR valve where it would mate with the head, OR drill holes into that chamber, or whatever. When the EGR opens, exhaust gas cannot enter the IM, because that side is blocked, but since we introduced a "leak" on the hot side of the valve, fresh air is drawn in instead. We need the fresh air coming in to prevent the idle from dropping when the ECU tests the EGR's flow.
I believe I understand what you are talking about here. You block off where the exhaust gases enter the EGR and leave the whole system plugged up. On the intake side you leave it open, but drill holes or notch the chamber so it can breath fresh air for vacuum?

And this helps aid in vacuum during idle!

Can anyone else comfirm this i want to believe eclipser-t, and i do but i would feel a little more comfortable if i get this comfirmed ;)

Ok so can anyone get some real pictures and/or a way to show me HOW to not have the exhaust gases go to the air intake? Only that and just that? Please.

^^ true?
 
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