The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Now it's running lean

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

iBoostDSM

10+ Year Contributor
613
5
Sep 4, 2010
Kalamazoo, Michigan
I just fixed some major boost leaks including my intercooler couplers and TB gasket and now it's running lean. Before with the leaks idle was anywhere from 12 to 14, same with at cruise, WOT was 10.5ish. During the same time my vac was about 5 inHG at 1000rpm. After fixing the leaks my new idle AFR is 17.9 and up. Cruise is from 15.5 to 16.5. And WOT is around 12 or so. My new vac is 10 inHG at 1000rpm. Any ideas on why it changed so dramatically?

I know I have some leaks still because of the vac at idle but I can't seem to find them, I checked all the common places.

My mods list is up to date. And I have Link just haven't put it in yet because I have the leaks, Should I throw it in anyway?
 
Where are your pressure testing at and are you spraying EVERYTHING with soapy water?
 
PCV, EGR, BOV are good. I sprayed the vacuum lines all around the intake manifold, in back of the engine. Are there any stray ones I could have missed? And what and where are the solenoid connections?
 
check again for leaks just to be on the sure side it could be a fuel pump going bad or dirty injectors

check if your vacum hose on your fuel pressure regulator is conected if disconected it can make your car run lean

If your car had a massive boost leak the car would run really rich on the afr I would thing
 
With the PCV did you pinch off the hose when you pressure tested? The solenoid connections are just where the vacuum lines attach too. Old vacuum lines could be cracked that are part of the emissions setup and they hang behind the intake manifold and go down towards the charcoal canister under the battery.

What pressure are you going to and how long does it stay or how quickly is it dropping and to what pressure?
 
I did not pinch off the hose on the PCV and I will check the vacuum lines for the emissions setup next time.

As for pressure, it takes for ever to build up to 15 psi so that's as far as I've gone and it hold for no more than 20-30 seconds....pretty bad.
 
Try starting it at the TB elbow and work from there. You should be able to build much quicker.
 
Ok that's what I was thinking of doing this weekend. Do you think I should put in my ECU with DSMLink on it or just wait until I have all the leaks sorted out?
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top