2G Not starting

[LiquidX]

Alright, here is the gist of it. I have made a major idiotic mistake after doing a mini rebuild that went fine by the way. I hooked the battery up backwards and reverse powered the electrical system.

Blew the alternator fuse and fried the ECU. I have replaced both.

I have verified timing, plugs sparking, fuel in the line, injector clips are in order, plug wires are in order and are new.

I tested the coil pack and put on a different injector resistor pack. Alternator and battery tested fine at Autozone.
ECMLink shows proper working condition of various sensors.

Cylinders 1 & 2 cylinders became very wet with fuel and the plug tips were black unlike 3 & 4. The motor turns over and has attempted to start. Have had a few back fires.

I'm unsure of what else I should test due to the reverse powering. I have noticed that IIRC when the Engine (20amp) fuse is inserted there is normally a clicking that happens?

I'm without that clicking sound that I remember hearing and am unsure what that clicking would be for. Any help would be greatly valuable to getting this up and running again.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Coolant temp sensor, maybe adding to fuel on plugs, maybe a bad ground or wire, if you fried something i would recheck all the wires.

 

[LiquidX]

Update

I tested the relays and both the FP and MFI relay work. The FP connector has continuity on all 4 pins. The MFI relay has continuity on only 3 pins. The white with red stripe has no continuity. Also on the MFI/Engine fuse, the bottom pin has continuity while the top does not.

Sounds like a broken wire?

Hmm, the fuse only has a power wire going to it. I guess it's a mass ground?

 

[92AWDHX40]

sounds like a bad wire if you have continuity on the bottom?

 

[LiquidX]

I was mistaken, the MFI relay has continuity on all 4 wires. The white with red stripe wore is on the FP relay but yet I've gotten fuel to the rail.

I need to know what clicks on a 2g when the engine fuse is put in.

 

[LiquidX]

Another update:

On link there are check boxes under the Misc tab for Rad Fans On, Fuel Pump On, Ground Timing Pin, Ground Diagnostic Pin.

This issue escalated to something else which I'm clueless on and I need peoples help on this.

Upon selecting a check box normal operation would be to turn on/off or ground the selected device. I'm getting random actions from them. I'll go and hit the rad fan box and either nothing will happen, random clicks from all over, something else turns on, and once in a while it would turn the fans on/off. Fuel pump box did the same thing and so did the timing pin.

I'll hit the rad fan box and my fuel pump will turn on. If the box is checked under normal operation it will remain active (device) for when the key is turned to on the next time without needing to reconnect to Link. I"ll have the box checked, turn the key to off, turn the key to on, and nothing will happen with the box checked.

I then went to go put the MFI fuse in and it turned the fuel pump on.

I need some serious guidance on this issue. Please help me out.

 

[snowborder714]

Wow, that's messed up Scott. If it wasn't Friday, I'd ask Tom if he knows what might cause this, as I'm beyond stumped.

Have you tried simple continuity tests for the rad fan wires, fuel pump signal wire, etc. to verify that's there?

 

[LiquidX]

Dave got back to me on link and it wasn't too much help to be honest.
ECMTuning User Support Forums

I'm not much of an electrical savvy worker to know what does what, how to test it properly, etc. etc.

I need someone to come by to physically look at the car for an opinion.

 

[LiquidX]

Does any one have an idea on what to look for?

 

[LiquidX]

With the under hood fuse box, it goes battery, fuse, then component correct? There shouldn't be a ground off the fuse box anywhere right?

So I shouldn't have a continuity reading if I hook the tester to a fuse prong and then the body correct?

 

[snowborder714]

I believe that's correct. I don't remember doing any ground work in relation to the fuse box when working with Eric's.

 

[LiquidX]

I double checked earlier and the reading I got was fine. Same with the pin 8 wire for the fuel pump. Nate came by earlier to look over everything and is thinking that having low voltage from the battery is causing the issues I'm dealing with, with the random actions from the ECU and relay clicks.

Have verified fuel to the rail by both through link and through cranking. Cylinders were dry however on this attempt. I went and got a LED setupto work as a noid light. I'm going to verify signal to the injectors now.

 

[LiquidX]

New update


I made a noid light using a led with a resistor package found at Radio Shack. Here is the verdict. All 4 plugs upon cranking receive 1 quick flash and then nothing at all indicating no pulsing, i.e. no fuel.

Can a faulty CAS still allow spark but not injector firing? Could a bad power transistor cause these symptoms? How about the resistor pack? If no cause from above items is there any thing else on missing that supplies injector pulse?

Spare working CAS still the same. Injector plugs have 11.5-12v as well.

 

[turbosax2]

Unfortunately, I have no answers to your questions. But we have a spare 1g CAS, power transistor, ECU, possibly resistor pack, and you're welcome to any of them for troubleshooting.

 

[LiquidX]

I know my spare CAS is working since I was using it until I got a black top CAS. Resistor pack I have spare but I'm unsure what to test for readings to verify if either is in fact fine. Power transistor is a definite try and same with ECU. Thanks Eric!

 

[Talondvr]

Don't know much, just throwin it out there. Try swapping with known good injectors. Maybe yours got fried. Do the injectors click when you plug that relay in as a system check?? idk, hope you get it all sorted out tho.

 

[LiquidX]

Yes they click AFAIK. it's hard to kill injectors being they are basically just a magnet.

 

[snowborder714]

Resistor pack I have spare but I'm unsure what to test for readings to verify if either is in fact fine.

You do have a copy of the FSM, don't you?

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[LiquidX]

I haven't dug through either one too much yet other than for the head job and timing belt. I did end up finding a post from Corey on the resistor pack yesterday,Google searching is nice. However, thanks for the test pic for anyone that could need it

I know the PTU needs a load to test which I don't want to go buy batteries for. I have a feeling I'll need to test my coolant sensor too now.

I'm hoping its just a bad part doing all of this, I really do not want to dig through the wiring.

 

[spyderturbo007]

Why would you need to test the coolant temp sensor? Even if it's bad, that isn't going to keep the ECU from firing the injectors. There has to be a way to test the ECU's power output to each injector at the ECU. Since you know you aren't getting power at the injector, I would check at the ECU. If it doesn't show an output signal, then you need to look before the ECU and backtrack from there.

 

[LiquidX]

Just got this email from a local auto repair shop that does electrical work.

"Check for 9 volt reference on yellow wire from pcm to cam sensor. Spark is derived when cranking from the crank sensor. The lack of injector pulse leads me to believe that the cam sensor reference voltage is not there. If you don't have atleast 8 volts to the cam sensor and no pulse but you have spark, the problem has to be cam signal. It may have fried one of the pcm grounds.'

 

[snowborder714]

Didn't you already test the CAS with your spare?

 

[LiquidX]

Yes I did. I think he is mentioning that a ground for the ecu is shot though.

 

[LiquidX]

I tested all the CAS plug wires for voltage with the key on and nada. Should there be constant voltage to the CAS with the key turned? ECU board still looks fine as well. Resistor packs tested good. Injectors click with 9v battery too so they are fine.

 

[delta448]

I think you've found at least one problem then.

I'd also really check the ECU board closely, make sure you don't see any burns or smell anything burnt. As long as that's all good, then I'd start replacing the ground leads in the ECU harness. Make sure you get a good ground contact for everything.

The CAS signal controls injector firing. The spark signal is originated from the CPS, offset by the ECU and sent to the PTU. If you have spark, the CPS and PTU should be fine.