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Not starting. Very confused.

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zerq

10+ Year Contributor
69
0
Mar 13, 2012
fairhope, Alabama
Ok so my 91 Gsx won't start. Running rich. Just had the head off and machined, have a Cometic MLS HG and ARP studs in now. The reason I removed the head was because of a misfire. I had checked everything I could think of and nothing helped. It was flooding and missing in the #2 cylinder. Compression was very low across the board. 122/116/132/132 from gears left. So I popped the head off thinking it was either rings or valves. Head was nasty with build up, sent it off and had it cleaned and surfaced, oil port mods and whathaveyou. Evened out the pistons, poured a set amount of oil in each cylinder and let it sit for 24 hour with very minimal loss (<1/16") so rings seem dandy. Put everything back together and removed some vac lines and re-ran my boost gauge and AFPR and EGR delete with a nice block off plate. Got everything torqued down and ready to go. Had to set Links Global fuel to -80% just to get a decent afr. So I tried something's and found out my AFPR was leaking fuel by to the vac line and letting fuel to to the intake (lined up with #2) and letting fuel into the cylinders non stop. So I put my stock fpr back on and deleted the fuel pressure solenoid(?) on the firewall and ran the intake vac line straight to the fpr. That's pretty much where I Am now. Still wont start. Running way too rich. Thinking maybe its a coolant temp sensor because I have a broken one on the Tstat housing but its not the 2 pronged T shaped one which is the actual ECU sensor. It's the one on the very top with 2 tiny prongs for a pig tail. A/c fan switch? I haven't driven my car in 2 months and its driving me nuts LOL :banghead:
 
EVO 560s. Which is supposed to be like -19.2 but my afr sat at 7.4, I tried putting my stock 450s back in and it doesn't change anything. I'm running a 3" GM MAF-T set up. I'd try going back to stock but I don't have my upper piping anymore and my old stuff won't fit anymore. Only other thing I can think of. Might as well make the switch to SD I suppose LOL
 
Yeah, if you have link you should definitely get sd. It's a bummer you can't use the afpr. Is it not repairable? Is the fuel still an issue in #2 cylinder only?

Greetings from Alabama. I haven't seen anyone else in AL so far on my time here.
 
Well I still can't get the car to start. Replaced the translator with the ECMTuning MAF cable. Still not starting. I'm really reaching the end of my patience here. My wife past that point long ago LOL I have no clue what's wrong with this thing.
 
What does it do when you try to start it?

^^rich or not, if u have fuel, spark, and compression it should at least be trying to start or starting then choking out. Also, how old are the injectors? have they been cleaned/flow tested in the past few years?
 
Not sure if you're still dealing with this problem cause you have not updated in a week or so. Anyways the fact that you had to set your global to -80% tells me that you might have an issue with either the MAF sensor or the MAF translator. MAF translator has an ability to compensate for larger injectors on its own so if you're using ECMlink to tune you need to make sure that the settings on the MAF translator are set to stock 450cc injectors setting. I haven't seen one of those for year so I can't remember where the adjusting knobs are but I think they are inside the unit itself so you will have to pop the cover off and make sure that the settings are correct. If the setting are correct then you might have a bad MAF sensor (which is not likely) or the translator is malfunctioning.

Few things to look out for.
Double check all the sensor connections to make sure everything is plugged in and not loose.
Check the fuel pressure to make sure its at 43 psi with vacuum line off the regulator.
Make sure that base timing is correct (5* with wire grounded)
In MAFcomp under MAF type make sure (stock) is selected. With MAF translator set to 450cc injectors its no different then a stock MAF sensor. If you have GM 3" selected under MAF type that could be the cause of your problem.
Also check to make sure that your TPS so set correctly, if you need to make few adjustments to make it read 0-100 you can do that in RPM/TPS adjust.
Make sure the car goes in to closed loop.
Check to make sure that your water temp sensor is working. You can do that by looking at your log. When the engine is cold and you start a new log the water temp should be with in few degrees of the temperature outside. If it reads much colder then the outside temp then it should be replaced, that could be a part cause of why the car runs so rich.

Just few idea for you to look in to, hope this helps.
 
Ahh forgot to update this. I'm on a few FB groups including this forums LOL I tried with the translator on stock settings, no go. Got ECMs MAF cable, no go. Followed a bunch of other suggestions, nothing. Checked the ECU, and it was burnt. Swapped it for my non EPROM and put the 450s and translator back on and still nothing. It went to the shop today. If you're on the FB group for DSMTUNERS you could see it LOL on a flat bed..
 
Did you change the front o2 sensor on the car? When I first got my car running like 10 year ago I a had a similar problem, it idled and ran really rich. Car only had about 84k miles on it so I didn't think that o2 sensor would be bad but after I replaced it the problem went away. If you still have an old o2 sensor it might be worth looking in to.
 
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