The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Rix Racing

1G Noise from transmission...I think

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AWD-Tony

Proven Member
6,801
3,735
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
Hey guys! I was driving home a few nights ago in the rain. Got off the highway, made a right turn. I took the turn a little faster but not to a point where it was sliding. This area is 40mph so as soon I started going straight about 50 yards, there was this rumbling noise from the rear and shook really bad. I thought something broke in the diff. I pulled over and looked under and didn’t see anything abnormal. Limped it home at about 20mph without noise or shaking.

Today I put it on jack stands and drained the diff. Nothing in the fluid, looks good and color is fine (using redline shockproof less than 1000k). I turn the rear wheels and I don’t hear or see anything abnormal. There’s a little play in the drivers side rear axle compared to the p/s rear which is solid, not a lot either.

I checked for play in the wheel bearings just to rule that out and they seem solid but the d/s rear makes a very faint squeak when I check play (hands on 3 & 9 o’clock) but solid. Also checked driveshaft which I rebuild recently, nothing there.

Going to put fluid back in and see if I can replicate the problem on jack stands. Will also try and take a video in the next few days.

Any thoughts on what I can check before I rip the diff out would be appreciated.

Thanks and have a Happy Thanksgiving all!
Tony
 
Last edited:
T case or if rwd I would check the driveline yoke for play. If Experiencing a significant shudder when accelerating from low speed or a stopped position, it can sign of failing driveshaft components. A loose U-joint or bad center bearing within the driveshaft may cause the faltering acceleration. You may also hear sounds while the car is shuddering from the worn-out U-joint.
Abnormal noises are another symptom of a problem with the driveshaft. If the bushing or bearing that supports the driveshaft or the u joints wear out or fail, they can interfere with the driveshaft’s ability to rotate correctly. This may result in unusual rattling, clunking, scraping, or even squeaking sounds from underneath the vehicle. U-joint in need of lubrication may also cause a squeaking noise at low speeds. Clicking or knocking sounds specifically can signify a faulty CV joint.
 
first thing first is go onto a road that is opening clear with no traffic. Go around the speed where you hear the noise and go left to right with your steering wheel do you hear the noise switching or getting louder on one of the sides when it has a load on it? That would tell u if it’s a wheel bearing. Also if it just does the driving straight with load without load at any given time it’s most likely in the driveshaft or the transmission I had a truck that was making a rumbling noise in the center support bearing had a shit load of play in it. I changed it because obviously that was the problem because they’re so much play however that wasnt the problem. The car was low on atf and that made it do it. Is there anyway you can get all wheels off the ground preferably on a lift and drive it while someone is under it with a stethoscope?
 
What's your atf level at. If it's too low, or too full, your plates won't get the proper pressure, and just sit and grind. Does it slip at all
 
What's your atf level at. If it's too low, or too full, your plates won't get the proper pressure, and just sit and grind. Does it slip at all

No slip. It’s a manual and level should be good. I replaced the fluid about a year ago, redline. I’ll be pulling the trans
 
A grinding noise may come from clashing gears. The clashing may happen because of linkage problems like wear or need of adjustment.

Other potential sources could be a worn or damaged synchronizer, shift fork, or rail and bearing shafts.

If you can hear the gears clashing only when downshifting, the problem may come from the synchronizer (too much play at the output shaft end).

However, a grinding noise may also come from a dragging clutch.
 
Think I found the issue but want to make sure this isn’t normal. I haven’t replaced/touched a new clutch in over 20 years and I don’t think this is normal.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Yep...time to get out the WELDER....
JK, Tony. That is DEFINITELY not good. Glad you found it before it came apart at 8k, it could become a buzz saw!
 
Yep...time to get out the WELDER....
JK, Tony. That is DEFINITELY not good. Glad you found it before it came apart at 8k, it could become a buzz saw!

I was thinking Elmer’s glue LOL. Doing some window shopping for clutches. I’m just super happy it’s not the trans.
 
@tk106 Hey bud, did you manage to reach a conclusion on this issue? Did you change clutch and did the noise/vibration go away?

I've been hearing a sound similar to bad wheel bearing for the past few months now ONLY when doing a constant right hand turn. I just checked all my wheels by shaking them etc. but they don't budge; the bearings seem solid. Also I don't think your clutch disc might be bad 100%, I've seen others which also have the inner plate loose which has all the damping springs on it. I think it's by design.
 
I am 99% certain it’s the disc. When I had the tcase off I saw shinny metallic dust where it bolts onto the trans so I’m pretty confident that’s the issue. I have a new disc coming tomorrow and a used flywheel. Have to get the flywheel resurfaced and stepped properly so I should have it back together sometime next week. There was nothing in the trans, and rear diff fluids. I isolated the noise by removing the tcase and noise was still there (on jack stands) so I decided to pull the trans.

From what you’re describing, that does sound like a wheel bearing.
 
@tk106 Hey bud, did you manage to reach a conclusion on this issue? Did you change clutch and did the noise/vibration go away?

I've been hearing a sound similar to bad wheel bearing for the past few months now ONLY when doing a constant right hand turn. I just checked all my wheels by shaking them etc. but they don't budge; the bearings seem solid. Also I don't think your clutch disc might be bad 100%, I've seen others which also have the inner plate loose which has all the damping springs on it. I think it's by design.

Stefan, try taking a video and view it to see if the noise can be heard when you play it back. If it does, upload the video. Could be a dust shield for the brakes also. And look for shinny metallic dust around the suspension and brakes.
 
Pulling the trans....my Achilles heel.....
I hate it. :banghead:
Good for you T, I feel like that was the noise and glad it wasnt IN the trans.
 
Pulling the trans....my Achilles heel.....
I hate it. :banghead:
Good for you T, I feel like that was the noise and glad it wasnt IN the trans.

Lol. I haven’t pulled a trans in about 20 years. Wasn’t too bad. Only part terrifying was getting it to land properly by myself
 
Stefan, try taking a video and view it to see if the noise can be heard when you play it back. If it does, upload the video. Could be a dust shield for the brakes also. And look for shinny metallic dust around the suspension and brakes.

I've removed both the front dust shields since I'm running big 3kgt brakes. For the back I also have the bigger '95 ventilated discs with the original dust shields but those don't make a sound since the suspension in the back is stationary. I did have a VERY loose front left tierod castle nut but I torqued that back up and the noise is still there. I will try to make a video next time I take the car out and see if I can catch the sound. Also gonna wait to see how your issue turns out to be. Good luck and hopefully it wont give you any more trouble!
 
I've removed both the front dust shields since I'm running big 3kgt brakes. For the back I also have the bigger '95 ventilated discs with the original dust shields but those don't make a sound since the suspension in the back is stationary. I did have a VERY loose front left tierod castle nut but I torqued that back up and the noise is still there. I will try to make a video next time I take the car out and see if I can catch the sound. Also gonna wait to see how your issue turns out to be. Good luck and hopefully it wont give you any more trouble!

Sounds good. Also look at the fender liners to see if they're loose. You'll see marks if that was rubbing. I will update this thread when I have it back together.

EDIT: Check the splash shield also. Think the 2g is the same where it fit over the d/s axle.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top