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1G no power error codes...help

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xfwrxreaper

Probationary Member
4
0
May 31, 2010
Altoona, Pennsylvania
So I just bought my 1st awd dsm Saturday. A little info on it its a 93 with what im told is a 6 bolt swap but has a 13g turbo on it :confused:(yes its a 5 speed). so I bought it running like poop. idle fine smooth running just no power what so ever. I was under the asumption that it was a boost leak. I did find a boost leak(lower injector seals/TB) but have since fixed them. Its slightly leaking air from the spring for the throttle cable. figured i would take it for a run, still has no power cant even make it above 30mph on a hill in 2nd. Then i replaced plugs / wires and gapped plugs to .030 then it started to idle high 2.5-3k even when warm. so I check the error code per vfaq and find that its a fuel pump. i buy a new fuel pump and install it. still no power and a new code. now im getting a code 22 crank position sensor please help I have no clue whats going on.(prev. owner says he bought a reman ecu and it starts fine BISS is turned whole way in and it idles at about 1200 after new pump)
Sorry for the wall of text :sosad:
 
Today removed cat and ran open DP....still has no power when accelerating....guess not a clogged cat
 
Been working on car for while now put exhaust on and stuff...still throwing a 31(knock sensor) code now been doing it since a few days after my last post...I went n looked...no knock sensor:ohdamn: so I went to autozone and bought one. The knock sensor plug had a small tab on i had to sand down but fit perfectly after that. so i start car still throwing a 31( i reset the ecu several times even left it unplugged in house for a week) an the knock sensor plug is getting around 5v to it when the car is on but not running. Should I buy a new knock sensor?

Also now my car is blowing allot of smoke at idle and when revving. so I did a compression test(I think g/f might not have held the throttle open during test). what I got was 120-120-130-140 roughly. so i added about a cap full of oil one by one an let it set for a few min. retried the test and got 140-140-150-160...do I need ring or maybe turbo? I checked the turbo no shaft play tho there is a crack near were the hot side attaches to the center cartridge. there seems to be a light film of oil in UICP but don't seem to be enough for that amount of smoke.

sry for always posting walls of text:cry: just trying to be thorough

Ran a vacuum test today got a very very steady 19hg..so im thinking its not the rings now...took a look at the ecu and the kid b4 me replaced the caps but it seems that he use way too much solder i then flip the board and see a white film over the whole thing? an he also seemed to jump 2 connections on the board with some wire...could this be a cause for the not working knock sensor? now it also seems to have very low oil pressure and overheats if let sit idling more then 15min:cry:
 
With the white film on the bottom of the ECU seems that he didnt solder them right, try cleaning it the best you can. Your compresion and vacuum is fine, no problems there. Knock sensors are a piezo crystal sensor, where itll sense any vibrations and create a voltage. Try checking the voltage with the engine running by probing into the wires, you should see barily any voltage with it running, if it reads 5v while running the sensor is bad or theres a serious detination problem in your engine. For the overheating check your coolant level, thermostat and coolant fans to see if they are working. Is the oil pressure always low or only after it warms up?
 
Ill have to check the oil pressure later this week i'm currently pulling the head to replace valve seals.
 
some oil in the intercooler pipes is normal. since you already checked most of the basic components, time to move on to input sensors that goes into the ecu. sounds like a MAF fault or TPS from what your saying. since your getting good vacuum, you can eliminate worn rings. blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe indicates a few things, worn valve stem seals, or excessive crankcase pressure.
 
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