No power at boost

[disillusions]

Did a bit of searching, but have come up empty. I'm at work and don't have access to too many resources, so I'm looking for a little help before I get back on the road; so here's the story:

After driving to work, I was boosting fine until I came to a stop; then when boosting, the car would just feel extremely sluggish as it approached 0-1psi. The normal sucking sounds of air in the hard pipes sounded weird, almost choppy. I figured it might have been a pipe that popped off, but when I checked, seemingly there was nothing out of place. I know you guys will tell me to do a BLT, but I don't have access to a tester, and I'm really trying to see if it's something simple that I can check and fix before I leave work.

As always, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Well i you have a leak you cant check it without a blt, no way around it. Something simple cant help you unless you do a basic step.

 

[turbodude]

+1 on the BLT. It really sounds like that is the problem. Sometimes it could be even just a clamp on one of your intercooler pipes that decided to finally get a little loose which wont be able to be seen visually but easily identified with a boost leak test. I know it's probably not what you wanted to hear, but that's where i would start given the symptoms you described. You can build one fairly easy with stuff from home depot or ace for about $15-$20.

 

[disillusions]

Well i you have a leak you cant check it without a blt, no way around it. Something simple cant help you unless you do a basic step.

Actually, something simple would help. If a certain pipe was known for getting dislodged, and you said "hey, check out "x" pipe, for "y" reason", and it led to me finding that it wasn't sealed just quite right; that'd be a big help.

+1 on the BLT. It really sounds like that is the problem. Sometimes it could be even just a clamp on one of your intercooler pipes that decided to finally get a little loose which wont be able to be seen visually but easily identified with a boost leak test. I know it's probably not what you wanted to hear, but that's where i would start given the symptoms you described. You can build one fairly easy with stuff from home depot or ace for about $15-$20.

Haha, not what I wanted to hear at all. A BLT isn't the problem, it not being physically on me is. I figured it would be a boost leak as well, but as I stated in the last reply, I'm just looking for a little direction. I just got off the phone with my shop, and they recommended I check the lower IC pipe; so I'll update afterwards.

 

[92AWDHX40]

And a compressor easy to make i got me one helped out tonnes its a must if you own a turbocharged car to check for blt, there is nothing else on that end sounds like a boost leak to me. It maybe simple as that.

 

[disillusions]

And a compressor easy to make i got me one helped out tonnes its a must if you own a turbocharged car to check for blt, there is nothing else on that end sounds like a boost leak to me. It maybe simple as that.

I get it, a BLT is necessary; but I can only work with what I have at the moment which is a few hand tools, my eyes, and any advice I get on here.

 

[TRSblader]

With no tools, really all you can do is give it a visual and check the clamps. Check the couplers for big holes, because you likely won't be able to see a pinhole just doing a quick look, and check the clamps. Make sure a clamp hasn't started to slide off the pipe or loosened up.

Small leaks anywhere other than coupler or clamps will have to be identified when you get home and make the tester.

 

[El Cuervo]

Other than what every one has already told you. Also check vacuum lines for kinks, cuts and general condition of them, as well as couples.
The best thing to do when you leave work is: when driving, try to only drive on vacuum and don't boost. Get home safetly and start with a BLT.

There is quite a few things that can cause the car to feel sluggish, slower, studders, stops making power, heavier, etc when on boost.
It could be from a boost leak between the compressor and the TB. Boost leak on the same TB. Boost leak from the tb to the head. This also includes fuel injectors and any vacuum hose connected to the intake manifold. Exhaust leaks after the head but before entering the turbine wheel.
You could also be knocking when boosting. This could cause the ECU to pull timming. There is also a few things that can cause this.
If you have a datalogger or some form of diagnostic tool. Then plug it in and check to see if there is any faulty sensors or any codes. This is the fastest and easiest thing to do.

Pay attention to your boost gauge. When boosting, does it build boost at the same speed/rpm as always?? This could give you an idea of what's going on.

 

[97 awd talon]

check all you lines and make sure they are connected properly my friends did the same thing and all it was was was a line unhooked