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No-lift-to-shift ?(DSMLINK) [Merged 3-7]

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Ok...here ya go.
No lift to shift means you never need to take your foot off the gas to shift gears. Inside DSMlink there is a setting you need to adjust...so that when the clutch pedal is depressed(slightly), the rpms will quickly drop to that level. 5500 rpms is a good spot. It definatly helps holding boost for the whole trip. So when you now shift, keep your foot down, and just pay attention to your clutch pedal, it is now the gas/clutch pedal basically. What kind of transmission do you have?? NOTS really hurts your tranny...and a stock transmission just won't take it, it'll grind like j-lo, and more than likely, never go into gear, especially if your pumping out big HP numbers.
 
well I have a FWD tranny. I also have a MSD DIS-2 running in my car, so would I have to set anythign oon it?

also besides the clutch/flywheel, what is the best upgrade for a tranny?
 
The tranny configuration doesn't matter..but i'm not sure on the MIS dis-2..i haven't had experience with it, but it shouldn't matter....don't listen to me on that...i'm not positive.
 
The NLTS should really only be used on a dog-box tranny, or a race-prepped tranny. The stock synchros really can't handle the high rpm changes. I've tried it, and it's not pretty.
 
Ok and now for someone who actually has some experience on the subject instead of spouting off nonsense. NLTS does not hurt your transmission, it can actually help a notchy trans shift better by better matching the RPM for the next gear. Instead of the synchros having to slow the input shaft the motor does it for them.

Directly from the DSMlink website. "Keep the throttle down during shifts. Reduces lag and provides smoother shifting in many cases."

I highly suggest that you ask any further questions about DSMlink on the DSMlink forums. People here like to "suggest" what their brother's girlfriend's dog's former owner's mechanic told them as gospel.
 
NLTS is the best thing since sliced bread. I have used it on my stock tranny as well as my shep stage 3 and it worked flawlessly for both. I rev to around 6800 or 7000 and have my shift limit at 5750. My stock tranny would grind into gear almost everytime at the track untill i got Dsmlink and used NLTS. The revs drop much faster than if you just let off so the syncros dont have to work nearly as hard plus when you drop the clutch you are at full boost instantly. I picked up 1 or 2mph in the quarter using nlts. Makes the 2nd gear change unreal....went from 4.9 0 to 60 to a 4.6. That is a pretty awesome gain for nothing but a shifting style change. I would highly reccommend using nlts. The first time you try it take your time with the shifting. just keep your foot down and focus on clutch in, shift, clutch out. the speed will come with practice. you can take 2 seconds to shift for all it matters cause its just bouncing off a low rev limiter like when you launch... good luck

Smokin80
 
The feature of the DSMLink to attempt to bring the rpm back down to a stable rpm while the clutch pedal is depressed, sounds very cool.

Personally, I have the AEM with a clutch only 2step at 7200rpm. Basically when my clutch pedal goes about a half of an inch down, the 2step comes on. I pull the gear faster than the rpm can come back down, but with a bazillion psi who would expect differently. This way of doing it sounds very similar to what you have. I have had good luck with this. A syncro based trans is going to like being shifted faster if you have some control over the power. Basically, an ignition cut or picture it as a second method of traction control. Only in this case you are not trying to slow down the spinning of the wheels, but attempting to limit the load on the input shaft. This will allow the tension to come off, and the syncro to do its job better.

As an example of how this relates to boost response. I was able to keep the 42r spinning with no more than a 10 psi drop (45-35psi) and recovery in less 2tenths or so of time. This is what my log data was showing at least.

The only thing that I would add, is that if the trans shows any signs of resistance or grinding, be cautious! A healthy trans will respond better. Not saying a seasoned trans will not work with the NLTS, but just keep an eye on it the first few times.

Jake
 
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is...make sure you've correctly hooked up the clutch wire that came with DSM Link before you try it out.

I would assume you've run the wiring but if you haven't you need that to activate the NLTS feature. The wire is also used for the launch feature.
 
Glad to see you got my PM Jake to come post in here. This sounds like a great thing for the track, but reading it is kind of confusing me. Do you just stay on the gas, and shift (what rpm, is there a specific rpm you have to set the EMS or Link to to use the NLTS), or do you just barely depress the clutch but stay on the gas? I would like to learn more about it, because when I get a trans it will be a TRE race spec trans, so double synchro 1-5, which should help with this as well.

Dustin
 
I have DSM Link and all you have to do is splice in a wire from the clutch to the proper ecu pin. Then on the setting in Link; you pick an RPM that you want it to active above, usually 5500-6000.

Then if you have it at WOT above the selected RPM and put the clutch in (keeping throttle wide open) the idle will drop to the selected RPM instead of just redlining like it would without the NLTS feature. Once the clutch is in just shift to your next gear, release the clutch and never take your foot of the gas.

It is quite nice since your turbo stays spooled up in between shifts.
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
Glad to see you got my PM Jake to come post in here. This sounds like a great thing for the track, but reading it is kind of confusing me. Do you just stay on the gas, and shift (what rpm, is there a specific rpm you have to set the EMS or Link to to use the NLTS), or do you just barely depress the clutch but stay on the gas? I would like to learn more about it, because when I get a trans it will be a TRE race spec trans, so double synchro 1-5, which should help with this as well.

Dustin


With DSMlink at least, NLTS runs off the top clutch switch and is activated with the smallest pedal movement. It engages a lower, user selectable RPM as long as the car is moving over the launch RPM speed cut off. You just keep your right foot to the floor and depress the clutch and shift.
 
Oh Ok that makes sence, so just the slightest clutch depresion, and the DSMLink (or EMS) will drop the RPMs down to what ever RPM you set it at, then just throw it into the next gear, and stay on the gas. Sounds like it will help shave some time of the quarter with a much quicker 1-2, and 2-3 shift.

Dustin
 
fourreGsixty3 said:
Oh Ok that makes sence, so just the slightest clutch depresion, and the DSMLink (or EMS) will drop the RPMs down to what ever RPM you set it at, then just throw it into the next gear, and stay on the gas. Sounds like it will help shave some time of the quarter with a much quicker 1-2, and 2-3 shift.

You still need to use the clutch on the shifts. All the NLTS feature is doing is keeping load on the engine BTW shifts by dropping the stock rev limiter down so that your turbo stays spooled and you don't have much of a power drop when you upshift.

It's also nice that with the 2-step and NLTS, you can pin the gas pedal from staging to the end of the 1/4mile and focus only on the clutch and shifting (one less thing to worry about) :dsm:
 
-DSM2NR- said:
I have my launch RPM set at 5500rpm. How do I adjust my NLTS? Is there anything to adjust?

Under the RPM tab there is a radio button (Enable Clutch Cut) that needs to be checked for NLTS to activate. The Shift Limit RPM parameter is then available for you to change :dsm:
 
I can't remember what intervals it will let you set it at but i i think mine is at 6000 and my launch is at 4500.
 
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