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No Clutch Pressure Only When Car is On

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habitatguy187

15+ Year Contributor
3,635
253
Aug 20, 2008
Indianapolis, Indiana
Weird problem, I know the system is bled all the way because I bought a speed bleeder because I thought before that it wasn't bleeding enough, well now I'm sure that there's no air in it. No leaks on any of the lines, no leaks around the master and slave.

When the car's off the pedal pressure feels normal if not a little soft, once I turn the car on though the pressure slips away.

To test it I pushed the pedal half-way down with the car off, then turned the car on. Pedal pressure instantly dropped dramatically.

Any ideas?
 
I couple guys I used to work with at mitsu suggested that maybe the clips on the tob disconnected from the clutch fork, causing the tob to spin around on the input shaft when the car is on. The tob is squeeling already after 6k miles so that might be it. Either way I'm going to change the master and slave first then go from there.

Sucks cause I'd really like to see how the new set-up will do once I turn the boost up but I keep running into stupid little problems. Did a BLT yesterday and I have a hairline crack on my stock IM somehow! JB weld here I come LOL.



10-22-09 UPDATE - New master and new slave installed, clutch bled with the speed bleeder, pushing the pedal in over 100 times, filling the master resevoir about 8 times, still no go. It just feels like there's tons of air in the system, hardly any pedal pressure until past half peddle travel. Master and bump stop turned all the way out, no leaks in system. IDK what's going on.

I really want to exhaust all other options before I pull the trans again, my wife will be having our first baby ANYTIME now, and funds will be short, time will be even shorter. If I pull the trans the car probably won't be out again until spring. I still have a prelude project I need to get finished and sold asap...... sometimes I hate cars.

I've read loads of information on clutch bleeding just because I can't seem to get all the air out, but I'm pretty sure I'm doing it right (you can't really screw it up with the speed bleeder) As far as pedal adjustment goes I haven't read anything but it looks pretty simple, and I don't think I'm messing anything up there, but I could be wrong.


10-23-09 UPDATE - Did some more bleeding/clutch adjustment on lunch today (car's stranded here at work). Same ol' same ol'. But something I noticed that I overlooked before was that when the clutch was adjusted all the way out I could still push on the slave cylinder. Also I had a co-worker watch the slave to tell me when it first starts moving and that doesn't happen until I push the clutch in about 3 inches.

So there has to be air in the system. It still loses pressure when I start the car though, but that is obviously un-related to there being air in the system.

To try to get the rest of the air out I opened the speed bleeder, pushed the clutch pedal to the floor, pumped the slave a few times, then put a vacuum line on the bleeder nipple and put the other end onto the line that's on spray bottles (took the sprayer out of the bottle and put the vacuum line on it) There was absolutely no air in the clear part of the sprayer, and I sprayed for quite some time. So idk what to do....again.

I also adjusted the clutch lower and bled it that way even though that's only supposed to be for 2Gs, I thought maybe since I didn't buy oem master and slaves it could be different, no effect.

I never lose any fluid so I don't have any leaks in my lines, I replaced the rubber part with a SS line, and there's no leaks around any fittings or along the lines as far as I can see. I'm really about to make an extended slave rod even though I know they're just band-aids. I'm just getting pretty frustrated and really don't want to pull my trans again just to find nothing wrong.

I need some help.
 
I ran into a problem like this on a 6-bolt car a few months ago. We found it was crank walking. When the engine is off the crank sits in the far forward position, so the master can adjust the fluid accordingly to keep pressure.

When running the pressure drops, because the crank is moving around and pushing, letting go, pushing, letting go of the slave which kills the pressure in the lines.

I would check for crank walk by checking your crank thrust play.

If that's not it I have some other ideas, but check that first.

Jack
 
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