New turbo setup, no start

[dabbdaddy]

Ok soo I f***ed up somewhere again and could really use some help

Swapped new turbo setup and added a afpr. After everything car turns on but runs like ass. Can't idle without throttle . Fouling 2 plugs almost every startup .
My afpr reads 43 when off (primed with ecmlink) when idle it's at 39ish . Isn't that too high for idle ?
I've done a BLT and fixed the ones I could find from not tightening couplers enough but same problem

Edit: went from 14b to small 16g running same tune, doubt the tune is the problem tho
Engine mods :
750 fic injectors
255 pump
Fuel lab afpr
Fp manifold, small16g , Megan o2housing.

Any input would be great thanks

 

[dabbdaddy]

You sure you didnt leave a rag or something stuck in the intake. Sounds like the car is way too rich and not getting enough air.

Positive on that one , made sure nothing was inside when I put the new gasket on

 

[dabbdaddy]

I would retrace your steps and check everything you touched or temporarily removed. I am sure your missing something and just haven't realized it.

Thinking so hard about everything I did I think I may have found my problem.
While the battery was out I took out the egr valve and installed the blockoff. However I never reinstalled that ground ring to anything.
Il have it done in the morning and see how significant that ground ring is

 

[Bo0sTeD 4G63]

Thinking so hard about everything I did I think I may have found my problem.
While the battery was out I took out the egr valve and installed the blockoff. However I never reinstalled that ground ring to anything.
Il have it done in the morning and see how significant that ground ring is

I hope that’s the soltution to your problem. Don’t forget to keep us updated.

 

[dabbdaddy]

Well that's the ring I was talking about, at night it looked more like a ground , not sure what purpose that ring has but il get it bolted down now anyways

 

[dabbdaddy]

This piece of shit is going to be on fire soon..

Barely touching the connector the cables just snapped off . Now I need to find a new connector unless I can just ignore the connectors and solder the wires together

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

What is the connector for, do you know? You can get replacement plugs for just about all of our stuff through Sheridan Engineering (I use a lot), Ohm Racing or one of our members, @bastarddsm , has been doing some work with plugs and such for our cars. Give any of them a shout, or maybe one will chime in.

 

[dabbdaddy]

What is the connector for, do you know? You can get replacement plugs for just about all of our stuff through Sheridan Engineering (I use a lot), Ohm Racing or one of our members, @bastarddsm , has been doing some work with plugs and such for our cars. Give any of them a shout, or maybe one will chime in.

If I'm not mistaken it's the knock sensor connector . I don't want to do anything ghetto or temp fixes but I'm tired of ordering parts . I just want this shit to turn on already now I gotta wait few days for a damn connector

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Just about every one of our connectors and wires under the hood are brittle from heat. Check and see if you need any other connectors to make it a good harness and order them all at the same time. Through Sheridan, I get extra connector pins and insulators that they throw in just in case you make a goof or two.
This is the knock sensor connector:

http://connectors.sheridanengineering.com/NMWP2F-GY.htm

(You have to click on the connector, and it will tell you what it is normally used for on our cars)

 

[dabbdaddy]

Perfect , just ordered the knock sensor and the maf/power transistor connector that looks a little suspect as well .

Anyhow , the knock sensor had 1 wire already cut off before the other one literally snapped on my hand
Would that have any correlation with my current problem ? I have searched on bad knock sensors but I see that some run fine without , and some can't even idle with It unplugged

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It would not have pulled timing if one wire was already broke. My '92 came to me with this as its knock sensor.......

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This is what a BAD knock sensor looks like....yuk. It was pulling timing like crazy since all of its "goo" was gone.
Once replaced, the car ran much better, because it had timing.

 

[dabbdaddy]

Mhm I don' have a problem with timing being pulled, in the log I posted earlier it shows 5* timing on idle.

Anyhow I guess nothing to do to the car until that connector and my new boost leak tester comes in (2 lazy to make my own again)

Just 1 last noob question till then, That "ring" I posted earlier is not a ground ring in anyway is it ? I was reading the writeup for blockoff instal and it said reinstal ground ring but in the pic doesnt look like it grounds anything just hold into place .
Il put it on where it was anyways

And thanks again @1990TSIAWDTALON And everyone else whos chimed in so far . Il post back with any findings fidling with the car

 

[motomattx]

Time to backtrack, possibly put things back to how they were starting with the fuel pressure regulator.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

It's gonna show 5* timing when grounded and checking +/-1* IMO. Its when you run them a bit that they will pull timing...unless its too tight or too loose. Not very tight at all. Cant remember the spec on it off hand but I run mine hand tight and a very little wrench work.

 

[chrysler kid]

Post up a picture of your engine bay and the vacuum routing around the intake manifold.


The biggest vacuum leak would be from the nipple on the fuel tank solenoid vent valve under where the fpr mounts to the fuel rail. There is a large nipple on the intake just behind the throttle body, it goes back under the coil and under the fuel rail to the solenoid under the end of the fuel rail above the a.c. compressor mounted on the side of the intake manifold

Plug that hose on the intake manifold i bet you cracked the hose to that solenoid causing a vacuum leak.

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[dabbdaddy]

Took this pic yesterday , not so detailed but I'll get a new one when I get home .
And thanks for the advice il check those lines as well

 

[chrysler kid]

In that picture you posted your blow off valve isnt hooked up to the vacuum line on the intake manifold. Youve got that hose hooked back into the wrong nipple

So you have 2 large vacuum leaks right now

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[dabbdaddy]

My bov is hooked up to mbc and from the mbc it has a T , one going to lower ic pipe and other to wg. Had it that way before the swap.
You recommend otherwise?

 

[Spideydsm99]

Dude that ptu connector looks shot. That may be your problem.

 

[dabbdaddy]

Dude that ptu connector looks shot. That may be your problem.

I hope so , I bought a new one along with the knock sensor connector
I did make sure that all the pins are on correctly if that matters

 

[Spideydsm99]

Yeah if it’s messed up like that and your having issues with 2-3 fouling out. I’d bet that’s the issue. Looks like to me your vacuum lines are hooked up right. Get those two things fixed and report back.

 

[Spideydsm99]

Oh here’s a diagram if you want to go over it in person.

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[dabbdaddy]

Thanks a ton man , i won't try to turn over the car until everything has been redone right . Should be a few days il post back.

 

[chrysler kid]

My bov is hooked up to mbc and from the mbc it has a T , one going to lower ic pipe and other to wg. Had it that way before the swap.
You recommend otherwise?

Yeah that is going to compressor surge the turbo, and your bov isnt actually working. The blow off valve is used to balance pressure between the intake manifold and the turbo piping. When the thottle Body closes, the pressure in the manifold goes down, and the pressure before the throttle body goes way up. The bov releases that pressure


If its hooked to the ic piping it will never release any pressure, and its going to surge the compressor on the turbo because its not releasing pressure.

Compressor surge is the turbo facing a problem where it can not push any more air into the turbo pipes and the air ends up back firing so to speak back out against the compressor wheel. It can cause damage to the wheel and axial play from the extra pressure

 

[dabbdaddy]

I have a bunch of silicone hoses from extremepsi il reroute the bov only one problem.
If I route bov like in the diagram, (intake mani instead of lower ic pipe) what do I do with the lower ic piping ? Plug it ? And same with the other intake mani port that I would be taking a hose out of?
The hose you see coming out one of my throttle body ports is for my aftermarket boostgauge

Edit : did a lil research , going to get rid of the tee and connect bov to intake mani
And mbc to wg /lower ic pipe. Still leaves me to plug 1 port in the manifold.

 

[dabbdaddy]

Il post better pics of engine bay tomorrow , this time including the bov and mbc