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New Motor, No start

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nwedlake

Probationary Member
19
0
Jul 20, 2008
San Jose, California
So I dropped in my new motor and I knew I was going to have a few issues because I was changing so many things around. So, I had a few headaches last night and finally got the correct voltage to my cas. This is a 6 bolt swap, with the rre wiring harness. I had this car running before with much the same stuff, only major difference now is I am running SD. I put on a magnus fuel rail with the motor and the clearance sucks with this thing. So I had to unbolt my transistor and coil pack and move them around. I have wired individual ground to both.(Unsure of ground quality.) So I am cranking the motor, no spark and then I stop cranking, short surge of spark. It keeps doing this. I am questioning maybe its a ground issue because the spark happens when the motor is still turning, but the starter has stopped. I have a feeling this is the last remaining piece to start up my motor. What should be my plan of action for when I get off work guys? Thanks.

When ignition on:
getting 12v and ground at coil pack
Getting 12v and 5v signal and ground at cas
getting fuel pressure, haven't check injectors


Plan of action:
Double check ground at tranny, sand down firewall better
put new ground on intake mani
trim coil pack so I can bolt it on even with the magnus fuel rail
if still no spark, revert back to stock maf
if still no spark, get frustrated
 
Could there be a setting in ecmlink I am overlooking that is not causing me to get spark?
 
I believe there is a setting on DSMlink "INVERT CAS" or "Invert Coil pack". How is your coil pack firing order from left to right RIGHT NOW? If you HAVEN'T selected this option with DSMLINK, you should be able to fire the car in this order at the coil pack: 3-2-4-1

Let us know your findings.
 
The 4g63 uses a 'wasted spark' ignition system. This means that one coil fires cylinders one and four simultaenously, then another coil fires cylinders two and three simultaenously. Therfore stating that the firing order is 3241 is incorrect. It is true that wires three and two go to one coil and wires three and four go to another coil. There is no electrical difference between them other than the length of the wire.
The firing order is simple. One and four, two and three.
To correctly test the CAS, you need an Oscilloscope. Not only does it generate the signal for ignition firing, it also generates the pulse for the fuel injectors.
So yes, if the injectors and the ignition is not firing, look at the CAS wiring.
 
So I dropped in my new motor and I knew I was going to have a few issues because I was changing so many things around. So, I had a few headaches last night and finally got the correct voltage to my cas. This is a 6 bolt swap, with the rre wiring harness. I had this car running before with much the same stuff, only major difference now is I am running SD. I put on a magnus fuel rail with the motor and the clearance sucks with this thing. So I had to unbolt my transistor and coil pack and move them around. I have wired individual ground to both.(Unsure of ground quality.) So I am cranking the motor, no spark and then I stop cranking, short surge of spark. It keeps doing this. I am questioning maybe its a ground issue because the spark happens when the motor is still turning, but the starter has stopped. I have a feeling this is the last remaining piece to start up my motor. What should be my plan of action for when I get off work guys? Thanks.

When ignition on:
getting 12v and ground at coil pack
Getting 12v and 5v signal and ground at cas
getting fuel pressure, haven't check injectors


Plan of action:
Double check ground at tranny, sand down firewall better
put new ground on intake mani
trim coil pack so I can bolt it on even with the magnus fuel rail
if still no spark, revert back to stock maf
if still no spark, get frustrated

Double check to make sure the cam and crank senors are plugged in all the way. Also check the main harness plug located by the fuel reail.
 
Update. I figured it out. My ignition 1 and ignition 2 wires were backwards on my ignition harness. I figured this out by manually turning the cas and seeing if I would get spark and fuel. So it starts, but runs like shit. I know my timing, fuel, and firing order are right. I have one issue though, I am only at 12V while I am running, and my brand new saturn alternator that I swapped in isn't charging.

I double, and triple checked my wiring on the alternator and I am pretty damn sure it is right. I took the alternator to pep boys and it tested fine. I want to know how other people wired their saturn alternators when doing the swap. I think this is one of my final pieces to the puzzle guys.
 
i think the alternator only for charging the system theres nothing to do with running engine but try to remove the negative battery while the engine is running see if the engine dies but if not the alternator is okey, but i guess the cam angle sensor harness is the biggest issue over there. Ok try to unplug the CRANK ANGLE sensor and start the car but the check engine gonna light up but is gonna run fine.
 
i think the alternator only for charging the system theres nothing to do with running engine but try to remove the negative battery while the engine is running see if the engine dies but if not the alternator is okey, but i guess the cam angle sensor harness is the biggest issue over there. Ok try to unplug the CRANK ANGLE sensor and start the car but the check engine gonna light up but is gonna run fine.

To everyone who keeps saying check the crank angle sensor, this is a 6 bolt SWAP! No crank angle sensor exists in the swap. I also wired in my stock alternator to see what that would do. I am now getting charged, but the alternator is pulling on the motor so hard it wont stay alive. I am going to start today by replacing my spark plugs.
 
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