New to welding!

[1glaserturbo]

Finally picked up a welder so I could so some custom welding myself instead of having to tow and rely on other shops to complete some stuff. It's a 220v/110amp Chicago Electric MIG and is currently gasless, just need to pick up a bottle of 75/25 so I can start work.

Welds on the right (horizontal are the very first I've ever done, EVER) and the second welds that are vertical are after about half an hour of practice. Still gasless

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Any criticism is welcome!!

 

[toofast82]

i picked up a cheap gasless a few months back with no welding knowledge. Its definitely nice to have around. The verticals look good for 1/2hr practice

 

[1glaserturbo]

i picked up a cheap gasless a few months back with no welding knowledge. Its definitely nice to have around. The verticals look good for 1/2hr practice

I just can't wait to get gas on this thing. I have another piece I've been welding on that is as close to a stack of dimes a noobie can get

 

[toofast82]

yeah, it takes quite a bit of practice. i by no means consider myself good at it

 

[nuclearr]

Not too bad. I did worse yesterday on the exhaust I built out of fence post for a friends Honda Accord, it took a while for me to get the settings right on the welder. And the fact I had a lot of filing to do b/c of slightly diffent sized pipes (We found a 2 1/2" elbow and a 2 1/4" elbow and the pipe was 2 3/8"). But I need to go get some gas so I can do better welds.
I know WTF about the size pipe, but its what he wanted, and all we could find to do a cat back exhaust for a car he is selling.

 

[UGOT8UP]

You need to practice by welding metal together instead of just running beads on a flat piece of metal.

Look on You Tube and try to find somebody MIG welding through the helmet to get the basic fundamental of tip control and puddle control.

 

[1glaserturbo]

You need to practice by welding metal together instead of just running beads on a flat piece of metal.

Look on You Tube and try to find somebody MIG welding through the helmet to get the basic fundamental of tip control and puddle control.

I think I've got tip and puddle control down, I've gotta get more scrap before I can practice some more though, and gas.....

 

[Gamble97]

buying scrap gets expensive, .
I can make a puddle and drag it, but I can't make a puddle and push it for anything. I can make an ok weld, (only been welding like 3weeks now), but I tried to do some joints on the $2 exhaust pieces from autozone and that is not as easy as it looks.

 

[Burnett03]

Welding beads on flate metal are way different than welding two pieces together. Once you try that you will find it alot harder and it will look alot crappier

 

[1glaserturbo]

buying scrap gets expensive, .
I can make a puddle and drag it, but I can't make a puddle and push it for anything. I can make an ok weld, (only been welding like 3weeks now), but I tried to do some joints on the $2 exhaust pieces from autozone and that is not as easy as it looks.

Luckily all of my scrap metal has been free

Welding beads on flate metal are way different than welding two pieces together. Once you try that you will find it alot harder and it will look alot crappier

Oh, I'm prepared for crappiness

 

[Bud92gsx]

Find more scrap metal, Sit down and weld for a couple hours..play with your heat and wire feed settings in this time. You will find out how you weld, and the speed your comfortable at..Also what angles feel right for you. Are you sitting or standing while you weld? That too can make a difference in how well the final product comes out..

Try finding a couple of different thicknesses of scrap to practice on, not just one peice of 1/8 inch metal...Which is totally fine to practice on for a while...Also, are you laying a bead, looking at it and then laying another on the same peice of metal? If you have a couple of different peiced to play with, the metal your metal won't get soo hot, which will affect how well the weld turns out..

So find a bunch of scrap, chillax for a while and just weld your heart out.

Ohh also I have never used a gasless welder..I have been welding when my gas ran out, but never with a gasless welder..You never want to be in the middle of a nice weld when your gas runs out trust me...

 

[1glaserturbo]

Find more scrap metal, Sit down and weld for a couple hours..play with your heat and wire feed settings in this time. You will find out how you weld, and the speed your comfortable at..Also what angles feel right for you. Are you sitting or standing while you weld? That too can make a difference in how well the final product comes out..

Try finding a couple of different thicknesses of scrap to practice on, not just one peice of 1/8 inch metal...Which is totally fine to practice on for a while...Also, are you laying a bead, looking at it and then laying another on the same peice of metal? If you have a couple of different peiced to play with, the metal your metal won't get soo hot, which will affect how well the weld turns out..

So find a bunch of scrap, chillax for a while and just weld your heart out.

Ohh also I have never used a gasless welder..I have been welding when my gas ran out, but never with a gasless welder..You never want to be in the middle of a nice weld when your gas runs out trust me...

I'm standing on all of those welds primarily because my welding station is just a little too tall to sit on anything. I have a really steady hand, even with one hand just like the welds show. None of the scrap had a groove cut into them for guidance, that was just purely freehanded. I'm an artist (kind of) so I'm used to drawing straight lines without any ruling

 

[Bud92gsx]

I'm standing on all of those welds primarily because my welding station is just a little too tall to sit on anything. I have a really steady hand, even with one hand just like the welds show. None of the scrap had a groove cut into them for guidance, that was just purely freehanded. I'm an artist (kind of) so I'm used to drawing straight lines without any ruling

Steady hand is a talent you posess. That is great when talking about welding..

One technique I used and might or might not work for you, is too get all kinda off pissed if it doesnt go right...Take a smoke break and calm down, then see how you do..But I'm guessing with the steady hand your already pretty calm...Keep it that way..

Standing ok good, nice.
Since the peice is in a vise I probly should have known that..
Since you started with standing I'd say your on your way guy..You could try sitting. It might feel better for you. All you have to do is prop up the peice, connect the ground and go to town..

Ohh you don't need a groove cut into the metal..You could go to your local hardware store and pick up this white rock of chalk stuff..Just draw a line, and you will be able to se it when you drop your hood..

One more question...What kind of hood do you have? Fixed glass or an auto darkening helmet, with adjustability? If fixed glass what shade are you using??

 

[1glaserturbo]

Steady hand is a talent you posess. That is great when talking about welding..

One technique I used and might or might not work for you, is too get all kinda off pissed if it doesnt go right...Take a smoke break and calm down, then see how you do..But I'm guessing with the steady hand your already pretty calm...Keep it that way..

Standing ok good, nice.
Since the peice is in a vise I probly should have known that..
Since you started with standing I'd say your on your way guy..You could try sitting. It might feel better for you. All you have to do is prop up the peice, connect the ground and go to town..

Ohh you don't need a groove cut into the metal..You could go to your local hardware store and pick up this white rock of chalk stuff..Just draw a line, and you will be able to se it when you drop your hood..

One more question...What kind of hood do you have? Fixed glass or an auto darkening helmet, with adjustability? If fixed glass what shade are you using??

I've used both the handheld glass that comes with the mig or my dad's fixed glass helm. Both of which work perfectly well for me and I don't mind not being able to see for a quick second before I pull the trigger. I might eventually pick up my own auto dimming helmet but for now these work.

I think both of them are either DIN #10 or 11....forget

EDIT: Here is my dad's helmet, it is #10 lense

Jackson Welding Helmet - HSL1

 

[Bud92gsx]

I got my last helmet at harbor freight for $49.99 Works great, haven't had one problem yet. It's auto darkening, and adjustable..If you have a harbor freight or Farm and fleet, or something like that you can probly get one for under $75.00...It would be the best investment since now you have a welder...

A 10 shade might be a bit too dark for you to start out with. But once you get used to it you'll do fine..

Seriously though work on getting your own helmet. Don't go out and buy a $285.00 Jackson auto helmet..There great, but there expensive...

 

[1glaserturbo]

I got my last helmet at harbor freight for $49.99 Works great, haven't had one problem yet. It's auto darkening, and adjustable..If you have a harbor freight or Farm and fleet, or something like that you can probly get one for under $75.00...It would be the best investment since now you have a welder...

A 10 shade might be a bit too dark for you to start out with. But once you get used to it you'll do fine..

Seriously though work on getting your own helmet. Don't go out and buy a $285.00 Jackson auto helmet..There great, but there expensive...

Yeah, I'm on weldingweb.com and have been reading up on my "first helmet." It'll probably be an auto darkening unit, probably the one from HF. I will be using the welder quite often for personal use as well as custom products for close friends and the like so something SUPER cheap is out of the question, but I definitely don't need something excessive.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Yeah, I'm on weldingweb.com and have been reading up on my "first helmet." It'll probably be an auto darkening unit, probably the one from HF. I will be using the welder quite often for personal use as well as custom products for close friends and the like so something SUPER cheap is out of the question, but I definitely don't need something excessive.

I don't have my helmet at the house, it's in the garage with the gsx..Any way yeah I got mine at HF for fifty bucks, and it works great after putting masking tape on the sensors so it don't go dark when I look at a lightbulb...I will take a ptcture tomarrow for you, or maybe tonight. It's cheap helmet, you can paint to your liking, and it works just as well as one of the expensive helmets do..When it comes to helmets you dont have to "go high or go home" if you know what I mean.. And plus if you break a 50 dollar helmet it's not the worst day of your life..

 

[UGOT8UP]

You eye's are going to give you hell while using that cheap helmet, the response time on those helmet allow your eyes to see the first arch, if you do alot of welding it will hurt you.

And do not pull welds, your giving your self a bad habit that you will have to break, you need to push your welds and practice, I use figure 8 motion for most of welding, it takes alot of wrist action and practice but it will give good results and adequate penetration, using a C motion or 0 motion is good for thinner sheet metals.

Good luck.

 

[nkosi]

Finally picked up a welder so I could so some custom welding myself instead of having to tow and rely on other shops to complete some stuff. It's a 220v/110amp Chicago Electric MIG and is currently gasless, just need to pick up a bottle of 75/25 so I can start work.

Welds on the right (horizontal are the very first I've ever done, EVER) and the second welds that are vertical are after about half an hour of practice. Still gasless

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Any criticism is welcome!!

Hey man im a welder and if you done have to weld out of position don't ...they make different wire for horizontal and vertical welding ...so if you can avoid any out of position welds do so cause your weld will be of better quality and the penetration ill be better....and the set up of the welder is as if not more important than the welding it self ...you should set it up to get as little spatter as possible and it should sound like bacon frying ....so start by adjusting voltage and then adjust your wire speed to fine tune...hope this helps..

 

[turboglenn]

I got my last helmet at harbor freight for $49.99 Works great, haven't had one problem yet. It's auto darkening, and adjustable..If you have a harbor freight or Farm and fleet, or something like that you can probly get one for under $75.00...It would be the best investment since now you have a welder...

A 10 shade might be a bit too dark for you to start out with. But once you get used to it you'll do fine..

Seriously though work on getting your own helmet. Don't go out and buy a $285.00 Jackson auto helmet..There great, but there expensive...

I have the auto tint harbor freight model myself and except for some very weird tight places where the mask will sometimes flash to "off" from the arc being blocked for a second, but you just have to look from a different angle to stop that when it happens.

I've got a nice traditional lense that i am now very good with but an auto tint is a great learning tool because much of the learngin frustration of the MIG tip moving from when you looked to the time you got the traditional mask down over your eyes then you'd be off course with your weld and getting mad...auto tint you never have to worry about it if you've got at least enough light to see through it when it's in the "off" position.

Your second welds show great improvement over the first ones and with enough time and after burning enough wire and argon you will be running beads and making catterpillar looking welds with ease... At least with c25 your gas lasts a little longer, when i was learning the ins and outs of my new TIG, argon got a new name in my garage, we started calling it "ALL-GONE". My friends started calling it that because i went through at least 2 tanks a week for the first 3 months of owning it and since they didn't know how it was spelled they started asking me if i was all out of "allgone" again on saturdays. But, I perfected my techniques for cast iron and cast aluminum and became 1000 times better at stainless and chro-molly because instead of just using a friend's TIG to make a weld so i could finish a project, but now i had one to just sit and play with everytime i went to the garage or felt bored. All i'm getting at is keep at it and it can earn you a damn good living if it turns out to be something you love and you spend the time to learn all you can and put it to use and teach itto others you will be very pleased with it as a profession

 

[1glaserturbo]

You eye's are going to give you hell while using that cheap helmet, the response time on those helmet allow your eyes to see the first arch, if you do alot of welding it will hurt you.

And do not pull welds, your giving your self a bad habit that you will have to break, you need to push your welds and practice, I use figure 8 motion for most of welding, it takes alot of wrist action and practice but it will give good results and adequate penetration, using a C motion or 0 motion is good for thinner sheet metals.

Good luck.

In some of my more recent welds I've been pulling a little then pushing it back onto itself, so far it's worked out really well for me.

 

[turboglenn]

There's benefits to both pushing and pulling your welds.. Pushing is going to give a wider, taller and less penetrated bead. Pulling will yield a lower profile thinner bead that penetrates deeper. In the welding community there's controversy over C & 8 weaves and other techniques where you overlap or push/pull back ontop of a weld bead that just laid down, but unless you're welding the space shuttle i wouldn't worry too much about it. Go get yourself a book called "The welder's handbook" there's a lot of good info, most of it basic, but the book touches on some higher skill level stuff as well.

What i like is that it covers most aspects of welding, and has information on most all materials, the proer fillers and techniques used to weld them correctly. This is just a small starter book, but i garauntee you will find it usefull for years to come.

 

[1glaserturbo]

For some reason, I feel very comfortable pulling, and then pushing the puddle back over the previous weld. I don't know why but I just started doing that because it felt a lot more natural to me than anything I've been reading, or watching on you-tube.

 

[turboglenn]

Well, like i said, pulling provides a deeper penetration and lower profiled bead, nothing wrong with it at all. Over time when you learn and get your techniques down you will know when to pull and when to push based on the materials, their thickness and what type of weld you're going for. Practice both ways, and when you can practice out of position so you get comfortable welding at any angle you might befaced with on the job (but work on your basic bead techniques first) Learning to watch the bead and how to control penetration, bead thickness and profile are the main things you want to work on in the beggining. Remember that besides practicing out of position try and make yourself as comfortable as possible while welding, it's very important to not cramp up or put yourself in too much strain when running your beads (the quality and appearance of the beads will reflect how comfortable you were when you did the welds )

The one thing that always hits like an epiphany is when you learn to "see the bead" and the amount of penetration based on the glow of the metal ( at least on thinner stuff) When you learn to hold the gun in place till you see the penetration sink all the way through, then running your bead as if your pushing a pddle of metal along the surface trying constantly to keep the volume the same as it was a half inch back and when you get it down to where you find you can think of something else while doing it, then you get that feeling of "i've finally got it!"

I did some SS and aluminuized pieces for a customer/friend that i met on here and to this day it don't matter what or where, I still love to weld...metal is the best!!!! Woo Wooooo! Tomorrow i start on re-locating the neck on the aluminum radiator and piecing together the catch can which is also the customer's design and layout, i'm just putting pretty beads on it

I would say to this day stainless is my 2nd favorite and most favorite of all steels, but aluminum reigns supreme as my absolute favorite thing to weld... But all in all, welding and fabricating are my favorite things to do (at least mechanically related ) To this day i'm constantly learning from and watching others that are into the same thing... It seems i can always pick up some new information or can offer some to a less experienced rod burner. I'm happy to offer up any help[ i cna and there's some other really good weldors on this board as well that should be able to fill in anything i don't know or have forgotten So post up, keep the progress shots coming and no matter how dumb you think a question may be..... ask it! One of us will have the answer most likely

As for the time delay on the cheap-o helmet.. It's 1/20,000th of a second, and although that sounds short, after a full day of welding you will get a bit of arc eye ( a slight form of flash burn that mainly includes itchy eyes and some discharge for a short period of time (about a day or so afterwards) But to be honest, i have an expensive helmet too ( a MIller ) and it has the same delay time and even though i can tell it's still faster, after a full day on the job i get arc-eye just the same as if i took my cheap-o out on the job. The only true way to avoid the discomforts of the masks reaction time is to get a standard helmet, not so good for learning but once you are good you wont' even know you have the standard on except it won't lighten up when you're done welding. I keep my shade #10 standard mask and my 9 through 13 auto tint cheap-o on me at every job. I leave the 300 dollar miller helmet at home where it can stay pretty ( it honestly dissapointed me that the harbor freight helmet was IMO just as good as the miller...the ONLY advantage the miller has is that it won't "flutter" under low amperage TIG welding, this is because the miller has 3 light sensors to tell it to darkeen, the cheap helemt has only 1

bla bla i'm rambling again... hope some of it helps you

 

[UGOT8UP]

I might have to get me one of those cheap helmets to save mine, I got around $500 or so in mine, I'm getting sick of spending $50 a pop on lenses and covers for it. Although I don't come home with flashed eyes very often, I normally pull pretty long beads most of the day, although with my TIG where I am constantly initiating an arch I'll have some itchy eyes.

P.S. I hate aluminum.