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New to the forums, had a DSM before temporarily, few questions about a trade

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Pyrellios

Probationary Member
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0
Apr 9, 2013
Howell, Michigan
Hello everyone
I currently drive a Subie but I've been offered a mostly stock 95 Talon TSi for a straight up trade, but we'll get to that.

My first car was a 96 Spyder GS. but we're not gonna talk about that.
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Shut up, it was a graduation present and it was free. I never liked what the bastard previous owner did to it anyways.

Anyhoo, like I was saying, I now drive a 98 Subaru Impreza Shaggin Wagon and a member on a local forum was looking for a Subaru to trade with his Talon, and now here I am.

Talon has 156k on it (yikes) but has been, from what he is telling me, stock for it's life. It is the AWD model.
Currently has no engine mods other than a Forge BOV, which is only because the stock one sucked, and cracked into oblivion. It is recirculated though, and not loud in true ricer fashion. Turbo has no shaft play, did have a 16g in it for a short period but is back to a stock T25, car has no rust, strut towers did but were repaired.
Frame and rear subframe are clean. Auto trans was recently replaced due to previous owner being not to intelligent and thinking it was broken, ended up being a pulse generator?

I did a ride along in it yesterday and I had a couple of questions from small things I noticed, and having no real experience with turbo cars and very little with DSM's, I would like a little advice.

1. Gauge cluster was flickering, rev dependant. Error lights on the left? side of the cluster (Batt, oil and the third one) got brighter when revved and went out after 10 to 15 secs, Only happened at startup.

2. When he hit full boost, noticed a faint yet noticeable oil burn smell. Seemed to only happen quickly and up near redline. I won't be driving it that hard if I do get it, but would still like to know if it's something fatal to look out for or if it's something I could potentially fix.

3. It has some Kiggly Shifter mod, which he's determined to fix and keep in the car, as it currently has no O/D. No go for a daily. I insisted on putting back the stock TCU if we were trading but he seemed pretty adamant on keeping it in. Switching from park to reverse resulted in a nice thud and a good shake over the whole car, which from what I've read seems normal from this type of mod. Did the same between gear changes while drving unless you hit a "sweet spot" of about 4500 rpm. I'd imagine its extremely hard on the trans running full line pressure all the time, correct?

4. Had sort've a very faint, quiet clicking or tapping noise from the rear, going over bumps and such, leading me to believe it's from struts, but it's not strut sounding (if that makes sense) from what I've heard before. Too quiet. Could it be the rear diff? If so how hard is it to find another one/replace/repair?

5. What else should I look for? Or am I getting in over my head? Not on a super tight budget but it will be my only car and I'd rather not walk to work when I currently have a super dependable green turd which hasn't left me stranded after 20k miles of daily spirited driving.

Video of car: 95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD AUTO 14lbs of boost kiggly shift mod - YouTube

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How well does the "Subie" run against this DSM?
Imprezas aren't a bad vehicle with the EJ22-2.2L boxer four in it ... did you do a belt change on that motor?
From your descript on the issues with the DSM, either he lower that DSM a grand, or keep the Subie and tell him to have a good day !

-DSM
 
How many times are you going to contradict yourself? It's been stock its whole life......had a 16g on it. Has no rust....strut towers have been repaired. You want us to talk you into this or tell you its ok....I won't. Walk away.

Yes you would be in way way over your head. Last time, walk away. That is my opinion.
 
If the Impreza runs good then why trade for a car that seems to have issues?
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

How many times are you going to contradict yourself? It's been stock its whole life......had a 16g on it. Has no rust....strut towers have been repaired.

I said mostly stock it's whole life, up until recently with the 16g, BOV, and the kiggly mod. Repaired strut towers aren't making it any less stock IMO. No need to be so rude.

How well does the "Subie" run against this DSM?
Imprezas aren't a bad vehicle with the EJ22-2.2L boxer four in it ... did you do a belt change on that motor?
From your descript on the issues with the DSM, either he lower that DSM a grand, or keep the Subie and tell him to have a good day !

-DSM

My car runs and starts fine everyday without fail. Never done a belt job, mostly because I wasn't planning on having it very long.

The reason he wants my car is that he wants to tear it to pieces and put an STI bottom end with the existing EJ22 heads for a turbo hybrid block.

He wanted a straight up trade, and I have been looking for a DSM forever.

What would a general dollar amount be if you had to put one on it? My wagon's only worth around 2 grand in current shape.

The reason I'm so interested is I've always wanted another one since I got rid of my Spyder, and then someone offered me an AWD Turbo model? Pretty sure anyone would get excited, and that's why I came here. I understand DSM's aren't the most dependable vehicles, I spent plenty of time underneath the hood of my last one.
So does anyone have any answers for me on the problems and potential costs of fixing? Because that was my real question. I wasn't really asking on whether or not to keep my car, I can decide that on my own, I just wasn't sure how common those issues were and how hard it would be to potentially fix.
 
If you have the time and money to put into the Talon then go for it, but if thats your only ride, I personally wouldnt trade a good reliable car for one with issues. Im sure you can go on craigslist and post an add that you are looking for a trade and someone will want to do it.

Also those parts you asked him about putting back in, if hes not willing to do it then make them part of the trade agreement.

and honda_burner I think what everyone is saying is dont get into something over your head if you dont have too.
 
If you have the time and money to put into the Talon then go for i. but if thats your only ride, I personally wouldnt trade a good reliable car for one with issues. Im sure you can go on craigslist and post an add that you are looking for a trade and someone will want to do it.

Also those parts you asked him about putting back in, if hes not willing to do it then make them part of the trade agreement.

and honda_burner I think what everyone is saying is dont get into something over your head if you dont have too.

I completely agree, which is why I was trying to gauge just how sever the problems actually were so I knew potential immediate costs. And I understand that it's not gonna be as reliable as my Subaru, and I'm willing to take the risk. I want a car I can work on and enjoy and make it my own, hence, DSM. So anyone else have any insight on potential costs of the problems listed and how severe they could be or get?
 
If you have the time and money to put into the Talon then go for it, but if thats your only ride, I personally wouldnt trade a good reliable car for one with issues. Im sure you can go on craigslist and post an add that you are looking for a trade and someone will want to do it.

I disagree. How many other dsm owners do you know that want to trade for his exact subaru so they can put in an STI bottom end? Yeah, you wont find many.

Lets be real about this.

Could you list it on craigslist to trade for a dsm? Sure!

Is it likely that you'll find a someone who want to trade you, let alone that has a decent dsm and willing to do a straight up trade? Not very.

Options:
Given the probabilities of finding another deal that allows you to trade straight up, I would lean towards doing the deal, HOWEVER, I would only do this deal if you have another car to daily drive, you should expect this car to be down at some point.

Your other option would be to keep driving your subaru, save up some cash, then buy a dsm as a second car.​

Conclusion:
I would strongly advise against taking this deal if you are not knowledgeable enough to work on these cars, especially if you depend on this car to get back and forth from work/school. If you have another method of transportation to get to work/school but want to learn about these cars then I would suggest you make the deal, but only if he pays you a minimum of $350 cash with the deal.
 
I disagree. How many other dsm owners do you know that want to trade for his exact subaru so they can put in an STI bottom end? Yeah, you wont find many.

Lets be real about this.

Could you list it on craigslist to trade for a dsm? Sure!

Is it likely that you'll find a someone who want to trade you, let alone that has a decent dsm and willing to do a straight up trade? Not very.

Options:
Given the probabilities of finding another deal that allows you to trade straight up, I would lean towards doing the deal, HOWEVER, I would only do this deal if you have another car to daily drive, you should expect this car to be down at some point.

Your other option would be to keep driving your subaru, save up some cash, then buy a dsm as a second car.​

Conclusion:
I would strongly advise against taking this deal if you are not knowledgeable enough to work on these cars, especially if you depend on this car to get back and forth from work/school. If you have another method of transportation to get to work/school but want to learn about these cars then I would suggest you make the deal, but only if he pays you a minimum of $350 cash with the deal.

Finally, a decent answer. I have worked on cars all my life so I'm not too worried about fixing stuff, and for work I'll be car pooling most days anyways.

As for asking on cash on top, that's a good idea. He is giving me a new timing belt to throw in with it, he had no idea when it had been done and I demanded one. Also, after some research, it sounds like it may need an alternator soon due to the gauges flickering.

So i'll tell him $400 on top of trade and stock TCU back in car or no deal.
 
Finally, a decent answer. I have worked on cars all my life so I'm not too worried about fixing stuff, and for work I'll be car pooling most days anyways.

As for asking on cash on top, that's a good idea. He is giving me a new timing belt to throw in with it, he had no idea when it had been done and I demanded one. Also, after some research, it sounds like it may need an alternator soon due to the gauges flickering.

So i'll tell him $400 on top of trade and stock TCU back in car or no deal.

Good plan!

I forgot to comment on the light flickering issue. I had a similar issue with my 1g a few months back, just to be certain, the gauge cluster backlights arnt flickering are they? If they are then that could be a different issue all together. As for the alternator/oil/coolant lights all flickered together just before my alternator died. If you do end up getting this car, I would check/clean thet battery terminals as well as the contact points for the ground.
 
I would ask him to let you drive it for about a week and see if you feel comfortable with the car and to see if anything would stop working after a week period. If nothing breaks by then you should be good for a little while. It's not about fixing the car, it's about how much money you have to throw into them. DSM are a money pit when you newly aquire them! And yes write up a contract!
 
Good plan!

I forgot to comment on the light flickering issue. I had a similar issue with my 1g a few months back, just to be certain, the gauge cluster backlights arnt flickering are they? If they are then that could be a different issue all together. As for the alternator/oil/coolant lights all flickered together just before my alternator died. If you do end up getting this car, I would check/clean thet battery terminals as well as the contact points for the ground.

From what I can tell the backlights may have gotten slightly dimmer for a brief moment, warning lights were the ones I was focusing on. And I definitely will, if i get it. I'm gonna go through it with a fine tooth comb and do all the basic maintenance, fluids and such.

He did just do plugs, think he said he did iridiums. Is that acceptable in these cars? I know some cars don't like them.
 
I would ask him to let you drive it for about a week and see if you feel comfortable with the car and to see if anything would stop working after a week period. If nothing breaks by then you should be good for a little while. It's not about fixing the car, it's about how much money you have to throw into them. DSM are a money pit when you newly aquire them! And yes write up a contract!

I'm not sure how good of a solution that is. For example, the next time you decide to sell a car would you mind if i drove it around for a week before i bought it? No one in their right mind would agree to that. He is surely guaranteed a response of "Hell no."

From what I can tell the backlights may have gotten slightly dimmer for a brief moment, warning lights were the ones I was focusing on. And I definitely will, if i get it. I'm gonna go through it with a fine tooth comb and do all the basic maintenance, fluids and such.

He did just do plugs, think he said he did iridiums. Is that acceptable in these cars? I know some cars don't like them.

NGK BPR(number)ES's are the only plugs you should run.

You'll want BPR6ES since the car will be relatively stock(correct?)
If you decided to mod it and run more boost, just slap some BPR7ES in there and call it a day. These plugs are super cheap, I think i picked up a set for $5, give or take a dollar.
 
I'm not sure how good of a solution that is. For example, the next time you decide to sell a car would you mind if i drove it around for a week before i bought it? No one in their right mind would agree to that. He is surely guaranteed a response of "Hell no."



NGK BPR(number)ES's are the only plugs you should run.

You'll want BPR6ES since the car will be relatively stock(correct?)
If you decided to mod it and run more boost, just slap some BPR7ES in there and call it a day. These plugs are super cheap, I think i picked up a set for $5, give or take a dollar.

Yes I don't ever plan on building the current motor. Run it til it dies and then hopefully have a 2nd 7 bolt built.
 
Dont confuse be confused with what I meant. Ive just seen too much over 25 years. Rusty towers means there is more rust. Stock means...well stock. That car has a host of problems. Look harder and you should find something better. Dunno what your car is worth but it sounds more than that dsm.
 
Said his subie is about 2k at the moment. But for abguy to want a wagon subie regardless of what he "wants" to do to it. He has an awd tsi. Who would really trade for that. It smells like fish and its getting stronger. I would tell him haveva good day. Look upb the book on an awd in fair condition even if you would like to go by book. I know where i live its 2 grand higher than your subie. Just my .02
 
I honestly wouldn't do it. Sounds like a hackbox that's been put together and now he's tired of it. Main car or not it's not a cool deal for a new guy. There are running awd's that you can buy if you search long enough. My last 2g I paid 1800 for running with no lights and about 135k on a bone stock motor.
 
I honestly wouldn't do it. Sounds like a hackbox that's been put together and now he's tired of it. Main car or not it's not a cool deal for a new guy. There are running awd's that you can buy if you search long enough. My last 2g I paid 1800 for running with no lights and about 135k on a bone stock motor.


Not alotta DSM's in my area. At all.
That and I know I can get a better one if save up, but that's not my plan. If I'm saving for something its a 240 LOL. This just came up and now I have the opportunity to have a fun summer car because I'm not gonna be able to afford another one til the fall.
This one's an option because it's a trade.
 
Not alotta DSM's in my area. At all.
That and I know I can get a better one if save up, but that's not my plan. If I'm saving for something its a 240 LOL. This just came up and now I have the opportunity to have a fun summer car because I'm not gonna be able to afford another one til the fall.
This one's an option because it's a trade.

You aren't far from me bro. I'm in MI like 5 times a year! Just be careful...I'd hate for you to get burned honestly. These cars are a gift and a curse!
 
Doesnt seem like what we say will help make up your mind. Regardless if your asking should i or what do you think itll cost to fix. They (we) may be saying dont becuase it can possibly be a big can of warms. Look more. And if you have to... Travel alittle for the right 1. Theres not many DSM's anywee anymore. Theres more in bigger citys ofcourse. But not all big city. DSM's are rare were i live as well but i found a dam good buy with mine for 550 and engine just needed rebuilt and all bone stock owned by a girl and has 122k. They are out there. So just look.
 
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