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New Owner: Anything I should know? What should I mod first? [merged]

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airboss

Probationary Member
7
0
Apr 21, 2002
Hello to everbody in this forum. I'm new to all of this so from time to time I may ask a foolish question or two so bear with me. I just recently purchased a 1991 Talon TSi Turbo FWD for $7,600.00 Canadian and the Car was in MINT condition, never winter driven, always stored indoors, 100,000 kms., one owner (A Doctor) who always did the regular maintenance and anything else that needed to be done, and always a couple of good coats of Mother's Wax on her. She is in Pristine condition on the inside as well as under the hood, Pictures will follow soon so you can see for youself. What do you think? Also, I plan on doing some modifications, nothing outrageous but enough to put her around 250 HP. I'm thinking a mechanical boost gauge mounted on a single A Pillar Pod, a K & N High FLow Air Filter System to replace the whole stock can filter that is there now, and a new blow-off valve...Does this sound reasonable? That would do it for mods under the hood for now. The rest would be looks items like 17" Sniper Rims, and a neon purple ground effect kit.

Let's here those comments...I'm new to this stuff so all advise and help would be appreciated. ;)
 
Actually, I can help on that. My good friend does nothing but install automotive electronics. His favorite for alarms, is the Viper 791XV. If you happen to know someone who works at BESTBUY you can get it discounted for about $180. Otherwise you could just buy it at full retail and I believe they include installation. In Cedar Rapids, Iowa last time I checked that was something like $500. Not too bad if you dont have a friend thats a professional to install it. If you don't know anyone who is a professional make sure you let someone who is a professional install it.
 
Yes, just try googling it, or even look at a few auctions on ebay. They usually post up all the details and descriptions on it. The good thing about it is you can add, those glass breaking sensors. (Can't think of the actually name for them) I think those would come in handy definately in areas where tuner cars are stolen quite often.
 
Hey, wite2nr, there are a couple of questions that you could get a pretty good idea of how the car was treated. It may be a little devious, but just act really excited and ask questions about how fast it can go and if they have taken it on any time trials.

Be sure to ask about prior accidents. Even if nothing is visible or if the repairs were done, the value of the vehicle is considerably less. Check the undercarriage for any ripples or dimples where there may be structural damage. Check the corners, under the hood near the headlights and the rear by the taillights - you'd be surprised how much a new bumper can conceal.
 
sounds like a good idea, but i believe that the guy is a small time dealership. apparently, he specializes in eclipses, says its his favorite car and he sells a lot of them.

about the alarm, i found a couple online for about 180 shipped (amazon) but like you said i will need to find someone to install it. seems like that would run about the same price
 
I just picked up my newest toy. 91 gst w/ 82k on the clock. Pretty damn clean and zero normal dsm issues (headliner, cracked dash, etc) timing belt, BS belt and water pump along with milled head. All less than 1k miles. Runs really strong, but..... time for basic maintenance.

I plan on changing plugs, fuel filter, wires, oil, checking timing, checking TB cable and a general engine cleaning. I'm picking up a Mitsu oil filter in the AM, and I plan on changing over to Royal Purple 10-30. Anyone see any issues with this?
 
I'd check/change all the fluids in the drivetrain as well if you weren't planning on doing it already. Besides the fact that you probably want better stuff than is in there, I think that's a 60K maintenance thing.
 
for the life of me(and a little dumb)change the oil on a stone cold motor or operating temp?i forget the procedure for a turbo car
 
I've never heard that it matters. Now I'm curious too. What difference does it make when changing the oil?

I know the level changes with temp but is there something else?
 
I've always done mine cold...makes it easier on me.
And I always run Mobil1 SuperSyn... I know it isn't needed, but it makes me feel better.
Then again, I also do a little dance involving a loin-cloth, head dress and chicken bones before starting it every time the hood goes down.
Nice find BTW :thumb:

Now we want pics :D

:laser:
Eric
 
When you change the oil, let the car idle for 10 minutes, it warms up the oil and when the oil is warm it drains easier.
:thumb:
 
On a cold motor more of the oil is actually in the pan, on a hot motor it's been circulating.

I've always let it get nice and warm, then wait like 2 hours so the oil can settle into the pan. Then drain.

I also run mobile, but apparently it's not all synth. anymore. Penzoil platinum is the only one thats all synth.
 
Then again, I also do a little dance involving a loin-cloth, head dress and chicken bones before starting it every time the hood goes down.

I thought I was the only one that did that dance.....glad to know there is another one alike haha

Could always take it to wal mart and hope they dont screw upWTF not a recommendation though
 
changed oil,plugs(gapped at .034,yah i know,going to change to .028 in the morning.and i wondered whyi had a wierd idle)fuel filter,radiator cap.also hackedthe filter can a little and cleaned the TB.i have always wondered,why do people route the line on top of the TB different than stock??

sprung a hole in the upper rad. hose,something else to fix in the morning.one thing i noticed was the cam gear cover was missing the rubber seal that sits inside the grove.how important in that?can i get it from kragen or is it a dealer only item?
 
i didnt want to start another thread so im adding to this one.
i pulled the turbo,manifold,exhaust and other random shit.
i got really lucky,manifold came off without a problem(first time thats happened)studs are in great shape,just have to get new nuts/washers
ok,the turbo has no shaft play at all.thing is i seperated the housing to port match it to the evoIII o2 and mani.on the exhaust side the impellar seems to drag a little.it does it when i push the shaft in and spin it.that normal?i would hate to have and keep the car down till i could afford a new turbo,but oh well if i have to.also,should i just replace the thermostat while im at it?190* or 180*
i also got my symborski kit in today.my dumb ass got it for a 90.i have a 91 so im missing the metal bushing.how important is that and can i find one at a hardwar store??
a tally of things i need are new crush washers for the oil feed and water feed,gaskets for the oil return,new mani and turbo gasket and nuts/washers for the studs and new upper/lower radiator hose..i know were im going to get the turbo to mani gasket,but should i get everything else from the dealer or is there a shop online or local for the people located in sacramento that gives a better deal?i gues i could just try calling one of our supporting vendors.
so really,its going pretty well
 
what would qaulity motor oil have to do with if its modified or not?

A modified motor has more strain put on it, so it wouldn't hurt to put "better" oil in it just in case something catastrophic happens. I've heard of a case in which a rear main blew and the driver was able to get it pulled over after noticing a severe drop in oil pressure, and was able to fix the issue, fill the car back up and had no problems. Mind you, that car also had Slick 50 in it, but to me, it's the same difference. That and with the extra wear and tear, it never hurts to have better lubrication than your typical Autozone oil offers. Just my .02
 
Hey guys, my name is Brent. I don't know if any of the WRXModders guys are here or not, but I'm AWD>FWD over there. I am also on WRXTuners under the same name. I'm not new to modding cars, I had a 2006 WRX with 320whp 343wtq with a TD06 20g, FMIC, and supporting mods with 23.5psi. I'm now on my second Subaru, a 2007 STi that is pretty much stock. Right now it has a Cobb intake, Helix catback, Cobb springs, short shifter, and tint. Going on soon are a Cobb downpipe and a Blitz Nur-Spec catback.

My girlfriend's old Celica broke down and we decided to sell it so now she was looking for a good, modifiable car under 10k. She looked at 3000GT's but I told her that would just be a very expensive venture, especially if she's looking for 350whp.

So we're looking for a 2g Eclipse (unless a nice Talon comes along). I have always looked around but never too hard into these cars. I know that they have some reliability issues in the wrong hands and I have heard a little about (dun dun dun) crank walk. I really don't know enough! I have seen the FAQ forum a little but I want to hear from experience what you guys would look for when it comes time to check out cars for sale. We are planning to build the motor and go big turbo/fmic on it after about 6 months of ownership for 300-350whp with a motor capable of 400+whp. I don't really know what all it takes to get a DSM to this point. I know that maintaining it will be the key to longevity, but how reliable would this be if we were good on servicing it and keeping an eye on everything well?

What should we pay for a good condition (daily driver) 2g Eclipse? I have seen anywhere from 6k up to an unreal 13.5k at some super janky dealer.
 
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