New everything and clutch still drags?? HELP

[____Kurt____]

Let me start off with this, I have been having a clutch drag issue since I first drove the car (151 miles on it now) after being fully built.
New parts are as follows and all BRAND NEW:

• Rebuilt pedal assembly
• OEM master cylinder
• STM SS clutch master to slave line
• Isuzu slave cylinder
• OEM clutch fork
• OEM pivot ball
• OEM throw out bearing matted with PTT's throw out bearing
• PTT twin disk clutch
• PTT flywheel

I did have the CC forged fork and ball in there previously with shims to get it in the correct window position but PTT told me to use an OEM fork and ball, so I did just that. I have yet to try the new fork and ball I just installed but based on what I see so far it still won't work. Previously on the CC fork and ball the clutch would engage about 3 inches off the floor (which is where it should be) but would still drag when pressed all the way down. Mostly at idle when trying to put the car in gear it would spin the tires and not at redline. (See Video <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ewyUi1Gs-PY?feature=player_detailpage" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> )
I bleed the crap out of the clutch with a vacuum bleeder and by pressure with a C clamp. I had better success by having my clutch adjusted according to Jacks Transmission then by the FSM, but shouldn't the pedal have free play? (jacks eliminates all free play) I pulled the clutch out and sent it back in to PTT for them to check for a bent disk or if anything was wrong with the actual clutch and they said it was perfectly fine. The clutch is suppose to work with all OEM components plus the Isuzu slave cylinder which is suppose to help with easing engagement. I think I pretty much burnt myself out (as you can tell by my rant) mentally/physically/and financially trying to fix this problem.
BTW it is a Brand new Shep STG 4 transmission.
I know this post is all over the place but I can't really think right now and need some help. Thanks in advance!!!

 

[Steve93Talon]

Previously on the CC fork and ball the clutch would engage about 3 inches off the floor (which is where it should be) but would still drag when pressed all the way down.

Don't you have a pedal stop? If it's engaging 3" off the floor, you should have it stop just after that. If you keep pushing it, you're overextending the fingers and possibly causing them to touch the disc, which could be causing the dragging.

We've had zero issues with a PTT twin using the OEM fork/ball/slave and a 2G accumulator with a properly adjusted pedal and stop.

 

[____Kurt____]

Yes I did have a pedal stop in there but Steve @ PTT told me to take it out and extend the clutch as far down as it will go and since they use a regressive spring it gets hard then soft then it would get hard again and that is there built in clutch stop so the fingers aren't over extended. He told me I should push down until the built in stop and the clutch should be fully disengaged. I did that and it was disengaging properly but the pedal assembly was way past the "auto adjust" to get it to go to the stop. I can't get the clutch to fully disengage without being past what is acceptable. I did think I was over extending the fingers until I talked to the owner of PTT.