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New clutch install... Problems!!!

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sonicselli

Proven Member
79
5
Aug 15, 2015
Lowell, Michigan
Okay so I understand that there have been many posts on this issue before, however, I could not resolve anything from reading and seriously need some help!!!!!!!! So here I go. 1g dsm 4g63t awd, jacks trans. This is a link to the clutch kit I purchased, also bought a act streetlite flywheel. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=19731&cat=1103&page=1
I've replaced the clutch before but with this setup I'm getting some interference. For starters competition fork, new pivot ball (shimmed), and oem TOB, everything was greased for the install. When everything was bled went to see the friction point and had a disengagement issue to where I would have my foot to the floor and had a hard time getting into a gear, so I went and adjusted thee clutch assembly. I backed out the travel of the pedal to where it was still making the switch and proceeded to adjust the master. During this process I couldn't get it to the point where it blocked of the bleeder, I adjusted it to the point it fell out of the threading..wth. I put it back into the bracket and caught a few threads. Wanted to see what has changed so started the car and did the test BAM clutch disengages and friction point is 2.5 to 3" off the floor awesome so I thought, but when I leave the clutch pressed in I can hear a grinding coming from the bell-housing area... dang it. I then adjust master again so it wouldn't grind when I had clutch pushed in and now I've got that same ole' disengagement issue... Sorry for such a long post just trying to cover everything. Thanks everyone!
 
you might want to check the clutch pedal assembly for wear very common on the 1g . also maybe you didn't need to shim the pivot ball . looking at the fork is it straight out from the bell housing or at an angle . i have a act 2600 and after the clutch install all i had to do was to adjust the rod on the master and make sure there was no air in the system.
 
clutch fork appears to be straight. If you were looking at it from the front of the car, the one way you could look at it, it would be perpendicular to the radiator... that good or bad?!?!?!
 
i think it depends on the adjustment of the clutch master rod . i just looked at my car and believe it or not it's a little to the passenger side . you said that when you adjusted the rod it was working properly but there was a grinding noise when the pedal was all the way down . you might want to take the trans back out and see whats going on with the noise . there should be marks of some kind somewhere .
 
So here is my TOB guys, the inner sleeve is surprisingly offset... read tho that its supposed to be that way. The old one I had most definitely did not look this off. Also I can make it kinda click around when I press on it. Its not supposed to be that way...? Did I get a new bad TOB? Let me know what you think. Also have the clutch pedal assembly out and ready to weld. When I weld it what position does the pedal need to be in, all the way back up to the stopper?
 

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