New clutch and now it wont go into gear while running.

[Hiitman]

Replaced the clutch with a street disc using the RRE pressure plate. Everything is connected and bolted up correctly but now the car won't go into gear while running. Any suggestions?

Edit: It won't go into any of the gears but it grinds reverse.

 

[-TunedDSM-]

Did you completely bleed the system and replace the throw out bearing? Check for leaks by the master and slave cylinders. You may have to adjust the clutch pedal, I did with my 2100 but I'm not familiar with RRE clutches.

 

[numlock666]

the RRE pressure plate works on leverage to disengage it unlike the ACT that requires a short throw to disengage but with a heavier pedal. So with more leverage you need a longer throw (IE using a long breaker bar takes less effort vs a short one, but the distance you move the end of the bar increases with the leagth of the bar. So with the RRE your hydrolics and disengagement levers have to be in tip top shape and spec. Master and slave have to be good with no air in the system. Clutch pedal assembly have to be within spec (applies to 1G). Shift fork and pivot ball all have to be within specs. Otherwise you lose leverage distance and it wont fully disengage.

 

[Hiitman]

The fluid was brown. We completly flushed it. No change. We're trying to fab an extension on the slave cylinder to see if maybe the fork isn't being pushed enough to disengage the clutch. We also put in a new throw out bearing. Do oem discs have 6 sets of springs? The act street disc has 4 bigger springs as oppose to the 6 smaller. I'm wondering if that affected anything.

 

[Hiitman]

I probably shouldn't start it in gear right?

 

[Hiitman]

Check this out.

Has anyone seen this annodized blue cup on the slave cylinder?

 

[Hiitman]

Also, the car was running fine before the new disc. The old one was worn out though. I replaced it because it slipped a couple times. Here's a pic of the fluid we drained out.

 

[Jst4Cyl]

Don't get offended when I ask this but are you sure that the clutch disk was installed correctly?

The springs might be grab'n the fingers on the pressure plate.

 

[numlock666]

The slave piston comes in many colors...thats no big deal. Extending he slave rod is only a band aid fix. Adjust your clutch master by threading the rod out of the pedal assembly more. But to me, it sounds like your fork/pivot ball is worn. It wont effect the stock clutch much becuase it takes less movement to make it disengage. The RRE takes more so the adjustments and shift fork and pivot ball have to be in top shape.

RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info

Read the "other stuff" section at the bottom

 

[Hiitman]

Well the thing is we didn't know which pressure plate was in there. We figured it was an ACT but when we opened it up it looked stock. That's a little confusing because I'm making over 400hp and it only slipped once. We figured it was RREs no name since they built the tranny. Unless I somehow got some perfect oem clutch.

Don't get offended when I ask this but are you sure that the clutch disk was installed correctly?

The springs might be grab'n the fingers on the pressure plate.

I'm not but I'm really hoping that that's not the problem. Do stock discs have 6 springs? The act disc had 4 larger springs. Also, the car shifts perfect when it's off. Would this be possible if the springs were grabbing the fingers?

 

[Jst4Cyl]

Absolutely, the stock clutch has springs (most DD clutch disks are sprung, reduces the shock to the drivetrain) I'm unsure if it has 6 though. I can check in the mourning and report back Monday night.

You can shift a tranny into any gear without a clutch while it isn't moving. A clutch just seperates the transfer of motion to the transmission.

Here is my stock clutch, but you can't get a great idea of how many springs are there.

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As you can imagine if the clutch wont engage fully then the motion can't be transfered over without some force. I'd put money on it that you could tap the starter with the car in gear and it would jump forward (if in a forward gear) even with the clutch to the floor. If your clutch pedal has a good amount of pressure (stock feel) then your hydro. system should be ok, check and see if your clutch fork is moving from the center point of the window (on the bottom of the tranny) when you press in your clutch. If all this checks out then it points to the clutch install. See here to show that even a stock clutch disk can be used with an aftermarket pressure plate. The pressure plate is what would determine a majority of how much torque a clutch can handle. The disk does play a part but not as large as the pressure plate. Maybe this will also help you out. Howstuffworks "Fly Wheels, Clutch Plates and Friction"

DISCLAIMER - I DO NOT SUGGEST THAT YOU TRY STARTING THE CAR WHILE IN GEAR AS IT MAY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE CAR OR MAY PUT OTHERS IN DANGER.

 

[Hiitman]

Could that busted master cylinder be the problem? The part that stumps me is that the car was fine before we swapped out the clutch.

What are some commons things that can go wrong when installing the clutch?

 

[rich3389]

Could that busted master cylinder be the problem? The part that stumps me is that the car was fine before we swapped out the clutch.

What are some commons things that can go wrong when installing the clutch?

Replace it with a OEM m/c...My car would do the same thing until i got a new one and adjusted it. Now it goes into gear fine.

 

[Hiitman]

I've got a new master and slave cylinder coming in tomorrow. What are some common problems with the clutch instal that could cause engagement problems?

 

[numlock666]

Are you even reading what I'm saying? I just explained why your car was fine before the clutch install twice. Did you replace your shift fork and pivot ball? If your master is bad, It would leak out on your firewall under the dash. The springs have as much to do with disengagment as your boost guage...nothing a all. All it does is absorb some shock when it engages to make it a little easier to drive. Don't think you ever drove an unspring 6puck eh?

 

[dsmsucks]

I was having the same problem as you. I would bleed and adjust the master cylinder, NOTHING. Well turns out I had a nt slave cylinder(shorter rod). Changed that, and it fixed the problem
good luck

 

[Hiitman]

Don't think you ever drove an unspring 6puck

Nope. Like I said, RRE built my tranny and this is my first clutch instal so, everything is new to me. The only thing I replaced was the oem disc with an ACT street dics. The pressure plate is RRE's "no name" pressure plate. If we have to take the tranny off were going to put a spacer on the pivot ball to see if that helps.

Would the act disc be thicker then an oem?

 

[Hiitman]

I talked to RRE and found out that my clutch was in fact completely OEM. They were as surprised as I was that they didn't put an ACT in there. They also said that my fork and pivot ball should have been replaced but they also said that I should have gotten an ACT with the tranny build. So. I'm going to replace all that and go from there.

 

[zatomz]

I have the exact same problem as you except I just installed an act 2600. I put my car in reverse and pushed in the clutch and tried to start it and now my car is stuck in reverse and wont start because it keeps jumping. I have yet to play around with it so I have not fixed it yet but when you find out what your problem is please post it on here with what you did so I can try something else. I'm about to adjust the clutch pedal to see if that helps, I bled the system entirely and m/c and s/c are both in good working order.

 

[numlock666]

So you were originally running the "no name" PP? and just changed out the OEM disc for an ACT?. How bout the throw out bearing? Was that replaced? A quick thing to try is adjusting the master rod where it threads into the pedal assembly.

 

[Morphius]

I was having the same problem as you. I would bleed and adjust the master cylinder, NOTHING. Well turns out I had a nt slave cylinder(shorter rod). Changed that, and it fixed the problem
good luck

They are the same length. However, the bore is different. That is why it worked. I could put a 1/4 shorter rod in and it would still work the same.

 

[Hiitman]

I had two goals when I opened my tranny. To replace the worn out disc and find out what pp I had since rre didn't list one in the build. They also didn't list the clutch fork and pivot ball as being replaced so I'm going to replace those along with the oem pp. Gonna go with a 2600. Going to replaced the act flywheel too. The guys at RRE said that should fix my problem.

So you were originally running the "no name" PP? and just changed out the OEM disc for an ACT?.

Correct.

I replaced the throw out bearing too. I'll try adjusting the master rod tonight.

 

[DSMopar]

Ya people aren't understanding how hydraulic systems work, a longer pushrod on the slave doesn't do anything unless you're making it SO long it's pre-loading the fork (bad). Some sound advice in this thread, the best one so far is ADJUST YOUR FREAKING MASTER CYLINDER PUSHROD, ARE YOU LISTENING?! WHY HAVEN'T YOU ADJUSTED IT YET?!?

I have the same problem with my new ACT2600, I had to adjust the pushrod all the way out on my MC to get all the pedal free-play out and it still won't disengage. However I knew my flywheel step was at .598 and figured it should still work... WRONG so I gotta pull it all apart and re-machine it .

 

[Hiitman]

WHY HAVEN'T YOU ADJUSTED IT YET?!?

I dunno. Maybe because

I'll try adjusting the master rod tonight.

So..

ARE YOU LISTENING?!

I appreciate you being a dick and not actually helping btw.

 

[DSMopar]

I dunno. Maybe because

So..

I appreciate you being a dick and not actually helping btw.

You're welcome, so did you adjust it yet?