New clutch and now it wont go into gear while running.

[zatomz]

Adjust what **Crickets Chirping**...are YOU gonna do it for him! (Now that would be helping...

 

[kmoore]

Adjust what **Crickets Chirping**...are YOU gonna do it for him! (Now that would be helping...

ADJUST YOUR FREAKING MASTER CYLINDER PUSHROD

cricket cricket

 

[Hiitman]

Well I dunno which part fixed the problem but she shifts now. I'm thinking it's either the new flywheel/pressure plate or the 3.75" slave rod (stock 3.265). Here's what I replaced along with all that: slave cylinder, master cylinder, pressure plate, flywheel, pivot ball and fork.

 

[turboblack2door]

i had this same problem with my b20b swapped integra and it turned out that the throught out bearing was going inbetween the fingers fo the pressure plate a little bit and sticking

 

[DSMopar]

it was the master cylinder and the resulting adjustment... longer slave rods don't do jack unless the slave piston is popping out of the bore.

 

[silverbullett]

The slave piston comes in many colors...thats no big deal. Extending he slave rod is only a band aid fix. Adjust your clutch master by threading the rod out of the pedal assembly more. But to me, it sounds like your fork/pivot ball is worn. It wont effect the stock clutch much becuase it takes less movement to make it disengage. The RRE takes more so the adjustments and shift fork and pivot ball have to be in top shape.

So would adjusting the master cylinder rod really help even if you have a bad fork/pivot ball? I'm having a similar problem as Hiitman except I had a leaky master cylinder. I'm assuming the fork is my problem. I've replaced the M/C, S/C and installed SS clutch line. Bled the system until I was unable to stand but, it still won't go into gear. Unfortunately I don't have the tools to pull the tranny to check out the situation or the cash to pay FFTEC to do the work for me. If you gentlemen believe the adjustment will help, I'll give it a try. I apologize for "hijacking" Hiitman's thread but, I need help. Thanks to all.

 

[tylermartindc]

I'm in exactly the same boat as you. My car wouldn't come out of gear, slowly got worse till' I decided to check it out. New master cylinder, slave, bled the shiete out of it, no air at all, and brand new fluid. I adjusted the master cylinder rod all the way in and all the way out, made no difference for me. I'm stuck ! I just don't have the funds to get someone else to do it for me, and I don't think I really want to pull the transmission out in my driveway... Can anyone think of anything else?

 

[silverbullett]

I believe we're both screwed my friend.

 

[tbonitz301]

Did you make sure the throwout bearing was put back in correct.

 

[boosted spartan]

i have the same problem as silverbullett and tylermartindc, i was reading in another thread about bleeding the new s/c by opening the bleeder (with a vacuum line into a bottle of brake fluid) and pumping the rod itself...should get a bunch of air out...

ill give that a shot and report back.. the thing is that my m/c was leaking at the firewall behind the dash, replace that with a new unit and slave and nothing. i can put it in gear when off, but if i turn it on none of the gears go in.. im stuck thinking i might have a bent clutch fork and makes me want to cry.

 

[silverbullett]

i have the same problem as silverbullett and tylermartindc, i was reading in another thread about bleeding the new s/c by opening the bleeder (with a vacuum line into a bottle of brake fluid) and pumping the rod itself...should get a bunch of air out...

ill give that a shot and report back.. the thing is that my m/c was leaking at the firewall behind the dash, replace that with a new unit and slave and nothing. i can put it in gear when off, but if i turn it on none of the gears go in.. im stuck thinking i might have a bent clutch fork and makes me want to cry.

I've bled clutches before. That's the correct way to do it so you don't let air back in. I'm even using a one-way bleeder to eliminate that problem. I even gravity bled. I've let it sit for days so some of the bubbles can work their way up. I've adjusted the pedal assembly and the master cylinder. I've arrived at same conclusion. Either I bent or broke my clutch fork or.... maybe one of the springs in the clutch let loose and lodged itself. Either way, I'm screwed. No cash to fix the problem. I can't stand not driving my DSM. I truly hope that bleeding solves your problem. Just sucks to see so many of us have the same problem.

 

[boosted spartan]

well i bled it and nothing...got a bunch of air bubbles out, and still nothing....

now im about to drop down the tranny, check my clutch fork and replace it..might add 1 or 2 washers to the ball thingy...hopefully that is it....i dont think its my tranny since it shifts fine when off...

i got a new fork from mitsu and a new clip thing that holds the tob, i wanted the ball thingy but they did not have any in stock...so washers will have to do..i need my car for work tomorrow...

 

[trunks]

Any updates on this guys? Same boat here too.

 

[trunks]

Well if anyone cares I got mine fixed. I pulled the tranny again today and my problem turned out to be that my pressure plate bolts were not tight enough. The splines need to be straight for the tob to work. I was so worried about over torquing that I left it too loose.

Finally back running.

 

[tylermartindc]

i realize its been a while since my last post but... yes i got it fixed. new clutch. turns out one of the springs in the oem clutch disk ( which had 113000 miles ) was jammed in the pressure plate fingers. new clutch , bam! runs like a beaut.