New clutch, won't shift into gear now

[flipjbm]

Hello all,

Well my car has been down for a while now. I've been having to come home from college to work on it and it seems like I'm getting no where. I recently installed a Fidanza flywheel and ACT 2900 with a street disc. I've installed clutches before and it's basically just a day project that isn't too hard. Well a friend and I dropped everything out, installed the clutch and flyhwheel (along with a new throwout bearing), then put it all back together. Once we get everything together, it's about time for me to go back to school, but when I start the car up and go to put it in gear, it just won't go in at all. Reverse however did want to grind. It will go into gear when the tranny is off, but as soon as the car is turned on, the shifter won't budge into any gear (it hasn't been forced in nor has it been started while in gear). I was shocked by this (the car drove right before I pulled the tranny) and since it was getting late I had to call it a weekend so I could get back. After a week of pondering what it could be, we came to the conclusion that it could be the clutch disc put in backwards (I know that would be a major mistake but when you're cruising through working on your car, I'm sure it happens), the master cylinder leaking (we did see a very slight leak under steering column area), or just a general problem with the clutch itself.

Well after searching forums for the past week, I figured I was ready to try and fix the problem. Here's a list of what I went through this weekend (2nd weekend working on this clutch problem):

1. Disassemble car again to check the clutch/clutch disc - this checked out fine
2. Replace the master cylinder - new one is now installed
3. Check clutch adjustment - we did check it before we installed the clutch but we fiddled with it again, it is now all the way extended out to try and get the max amount of movement
4. Check fork placement in the rubber boot - I've shimmed my pivot ball before so I wouldn't think I would have to shim it again, it checked out fine with the fork being just barely to the driver side from the middle (passenger side would mean to shim it)
5. Bleed the crap out of it again since the new master cylinder is in - bled it with the 2 person method (one pumps the clutch and holds, other bleeds), then finished it with the slave cylinder rod pump method, got crystal clear brake fluid coming out

After assembling the car and doing all those fixes, I'm still not able to put it into gear. So now here is where you guys come in. The only thing left I can think of to check is the slave cylinder, which I replaced probably a year ago. It doesn't have any fluid collecting in the boot and seems to be working properly, but I figured it's worth a try to replace it (I have a new one coming in the morning from Advance). Also I did check the shift fork against my friend's that he had out of his car and it does not look bent at all. I do have an extended slave cylinder rod as well (I know it's a band-aid type fix but I got it for free) and a new stainless steel braided clutch line.

The car right now is sitting assembled and I really don't want to have to pull the tranny again and all that mess. The clutch feels like it's getting really good pressure and you can see the clutch fork moving, so I'm just really confused to what it could be. Let me know if you think there is something that I'm overlooking. I've double checked my work (literally because I've installed everything twice now) and I've ran through the diagnoses that I can think of. Any thoughts or help will be greatly appreciated.

Just for your information, my car is a 1993 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD manual with a 6 bolt installed in it.

Thanks
-Jared

 

[2point3Tsi]

#4

Reasoning is this, when you install a new clutch disc and flywheel you are changing the total thickness from worn(less) to new(more). This increase in height is enough of a difference that the wear on the three (count them) different pivot points of the fork can't push far enough anymore. Replace the ball and shim it too, you will then have plenty of adjustment in your master cylinder rod.

btw if you want to test start your car up in gear with the clutch depressed. If it moves forward you know its not disengaging, since its a hydraulic system if you've verified the condition and adjustments of the master rod and slave cylinder it leaves only worn parts. I had mine out twice until I replaced those and I ended up changing my slave and master frivolously out of hopefulness.

 

[flipjbm]

I understand the concept of why I shimmed my pivot ball. But like I said it is still in fine condition based on what RRE's write up has RRE's Clutch And Flywheel Tech Info. The shift fork is just barely to the driver side. If it were a little to the passenger side, I would be concerned and probably purchase a new pivot ball.

I also know the clutch is not disengaging. That's exactly why I will not start it while in gear.

I worked on it again today and I replaced the slave cylinder. The results are what I expected and it did nothing. Based on some other people's thoughts, they are thinking it's the clutch pedal assembly being worn out, which means rebuild it, weld it, or get one from a n/t at the junkyard.

Thanks for responding.

-Jared

 

[2point3Tsi]

Hmmm.... worn pedal assembly. I guess us 2g guys may be figuring that out in a few years I'm sure I'll be then