2G New Alternator, Battery good, Possible wire issues?

[Thao]

Hello! Joined this site a while ago and just recently came back to ask a question that's been frustrating me these last few weeks. I've searched a bit on the site and haven't really come across something like mine. Pretty sure it's electrical and has nothing to do with my new battery/alternator but here goes; I've had my car for close to 4-5 years and had 1 accident on it after 2 years but had it fixed up and it drove fine nothings wrong. Just the other day my brother drove the car and came back telling me something is wrong with it and that it's losing power while driving. Figured my Alt might of been shot and has replaced it with 2 Ref Alts both from different shops. Hooked everything up and when finally re-attaching terminal to battery, there would be sparks when terminal touches battery. I've checked most of the power line/fuse links and then fuses. I have yet to check my ground fully and some other checks but I want to ask the community for any advices while I take a breather before going at it again in a day or so. Any help would be great and thanks in advance.

 

[tunerfish]

I just had an issue with my negitive wire on my car (99 GS). I also had a new battery and alternator. My dash lights were flickering every time I would hit a switch in the car. When I hooked up a volt meter to the battery it said I had around 12.2 volts, and only went up to 12.9v with the car running. I went to autozone and got a new battery wire that I believe was 48 inches long, with all the terminals already attached and even a body ground wire. The swap was super easy, though will be different on the 4G63 but im sure not much harder. Now I get 13.0v and as high as 14.2 with car running and all acc. on.

As for sparks when attaching to the terminal, light sparking is normal unless its a crazy amount. Double check your connecting the positive wire to the positive terminal, and then hook up the negitive wire. Also make sure no wires on the alternator are crossed/shorting.

 

[second_amendment]

I know a ton of people are against this test, but it's a good way to find out if you have a faulty alternator. Start off by disconnecting the positive terminal and letting the car run on the own amperage the alternator is creating, If the car turns off it means the alternator is faulty. Now if the battery is becoming flat you might have a wire grounding off on the chassis.

 

[NHerron]

Bad idea. Good way to smoke a module not rated for higher than 'typical' voltages. The battery is the reference for the alternator otherwise it defaults to a higher voltage. It also absorbs any voltage spikes, the battery is the capacitor.

That's not so bad on older vehicles but, todays vehicles... not good. That voltage spike causes big problems.

 

[DSM1G90]

Start off by disconnecting the positive terminal and letting the car run on the own amperage the alternator is creating

Yep, totally bad idea if you like blowing alternators on a regular basis.

The alternator is the ballast point between battery and system. It's the battery that runs the system and the alternator is just keeping the current flow from battery to system steady and at a steady voltage.

You pull that positive connection from the battery, and suddenly, the alternator suddenly has to take on the load of the system completely.

Then, the regulator in the alternator isn't designed for this sudden load shock and can easily say "Eff It!" where it blows open, or shorts across rendering the alternator useless.

Don't know WHERE this fool practice came from, but who ever started it should be hung by their thumbnails !!

 

[Thao]

I've had the store (napa) check the Alt before taking it. It's not just little sparks, it's damaging the battery terminal and is burning it right off. Even if I were to force the re-attachment it completely drains the battery in a few seconds before I can even start the car running (last time I did that the amp fried and so did the 1st Alt). I still haven't checked my ground as it runs behind the fuel rail and engine and have to take some other parts apart to even take a look at it lest change it out.

 

[Mello]

Are you saying that when you connect to positive to the battery it's shorting out? If so, you have a short. You need a 12v test light for starters. Could be a wire issue or a component shorting out internally.

 

[Sharpie1983]

You have something drawing way to many amps on in the car while attaching the batt cables, or you have a main hot wire (starter or alt.) pinched,cut,frayed touching bare metal. If it is the pos wire you are talking about throwing sparks, melting wires that is. If its the neg wire throwing sparks I'd start by disconnecting that amp and any other secondary system that may be hooked up and try reconnecting batt terminals. always disconnect neg cable first, connect last. Hope you find it.

 

[NHerron]

Pull the biggest fuse then try connecting the cable. If it still sparks then its the unfused starter cables.

 

[NHerron]

Actually I doubt it's anything to do with any fused circuit. Huge sparks and melting terminal is a fatass direct short -check all the bigger cables coming off the battey, around the starter, etc. And check that amp setup too, you do have that fused RIGHT?