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new aftermarket 20g antisurge housing.

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Well you need to balance regardless when you change the compressor blade. I'd trust the housing if you're going for the anti-surge capabilities, it's just the casing afterall. Can't say anything about the blade since I've never used one.

The other issue would be where the compressor housing mounts the wastegate (if internally gated).
 
Well you need to balance regardless when you change the compressor blade. I'd trust the housing if you're going for the anti-surge capabilities, it's just the casing afterall. Can't say anything about the blade since I've never used one.

Not really. if you assemble the wheels the way they were originally lined up, then the balance doesnt change.
 
Not really. if you assemble the wheels the way they were originally lined up, then the balance doesnt change.

Well yeah if it's the same components being put back on, but if he's going from Evo3 to 20g, it's a new compressor blade, hence the need for the balance (new and old won't necessarily be balanced).
 
Well yeah if it's the same components being put back on, but if he's going from Evo3 to 20g, it's a new compressor blade, hence the need for the balance (new and old won't necessarily be balanced).

The mitsu 20g compressors are a balanced part. There is no need for final balance upon assembly. :thumb:

I was just wondering if this housing would bolt on an e316?
 
Would it work on a td06 20g? Just the compressor cover I don't want to use that wheel
 
The mitsu 20g compressors are a balanced part. There is no need for final balance upon assembly. :thumb:

I was just wondering if this housing would bolt on an e316?

The compressor housing is machined to fit a 20g compressor wheel not a e316g. I have never heard of someone taking a 20g cover and putting it on a 16g (whether its the anti compressor surge housing or a MHI housing.) Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't the clearance between the compressor blades and the housing leave a huge gap?

Would it work on a td06 20g? Just the compressor cover I don't want to use that wheel

The td06 and td05 is referring to the turbine size. It has nothing to do with the compressor blade size, as there are both td05 and td06 20g turbos. So to answer you question, yes it should work because it machined for a 20g wheel.


I actually just bought this cover and blade, I will take some picture when I get it in.
 
If you get it you can get your assembly balanced at almost any diesel truck specialty shop. The one here is called "diesel specialties" and they rebalance turbos for 75 bucks, clean injectors for 35, and i hven't priced anythign else.

Also td05 references the turbine blade/wheel not the compressor that is what is 20g, 16g etc..

the one thought i have is if the backing plate on the mitsubishi turbos is machined for the compressor wheel major diameter like the garretts are? if so to upgrade you'd have to have that machined out as well as i'm sure the OD's are probably diffrerent, if not , my bad
 
If you get it you can get your assembly balanced at almost any diesel truck specialty shop. The one here is called "diesel specialties" and they rebalance turbos for 75 bucks, clean injectors for 35, and i hven't priced anythign else.

Also td05 references the turbine blade/wheel not the compressor that is what is 20g, 16g etc..

the one thought i have is if the backing plate on the mitsubishi turbos is machined for the compressor wheel major diameter like the garretts are? if so to upgrade you'd have to have that machined out as well as i'm sure the OD's are probably diffrerent, if not , my bad

The backplate size for a big 16g, evo3 16g, 18g, and 20g are all the same size. The interesting thing is the 20g i rebuilt with an aftermarket 20g compressor didn't surge, just the real mhi wheel.
Here is the mhi wheel, with backswept blades, and a surge issue.
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The aftermarket wheel, with straight blades, and no surge issues.
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The interesting thing is the 20g i rebuilt with an aftermarket 20g compressor didn't surge, just the real mhi wheel.

That IS interesting. I know of an MR2 owner who went from MHI to that same wheel and still had surge, just not as bad. There are 2 different styles of 20g wheels out there- the one pictured and one with very thin blades that sweep back kind of like the MHI wheel. I posted pics of the differences in a thread about ebay housings a while back.

I have the latter version of the 20g wheel, but I never found a housing to use it with (I tried to have an 18g housing cut by MAP, but due to some BS from their rep on here, I walked into their shop thinking I was paying for an arranged service and got nothing but blank stares). I'm interested to see how it performs- it weighed less than a flatback 17c wheel.

As for the quality, all the kamak stuff I've played with was pretty good *shrugs* I certainly wouldn't worry about running one of their housings.
 
The compressor housing is machined to fit a 20g compressor wheel not a e316g. I have never heard of someone taking a 20g cover and putting it on a 16g (whether its the anti compressor surge housing or a MHI housing.) Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't the clearance between the compressor blades and the housing leave a huge gap?



The td06 and td05 is referring to the turbine size. It has nothing to do with the compressor blade size, as there are both td05 and td06 20g turbos. So to answer you question, yes it should work because it machined for a 20g wheel.


I actually just bought this cover and blade, I will take some picture when I get it in.

Thanks for the pics. They sell a 20g wheel and a 16g cover that is machined for that wheel. The only difference in the wheels is the inducer is 4.2mm larger on the 20g wheel. Just wondering if the new anti-surge housing is interchangeable with the e316g chra? That way I could bolt it on.. er snap ring it on with a 20g wheel as a little upgrade to my e316g.

Turbo Compressor Housing TD05H + Wheel 20G DSM 1G EVO 3 | eBay


by the looks of this post the 20g housings will snap right on a 16g. I see no reason why i can have a 20g wheel with antisurge housing on my e316g now. Not that this will make a world of difference, but it should help some. I can also eliminate the J pipe...

www.turboforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=3316
 
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^ It would fit, but you'd have to do something different with your wastegate system as there is no way in hell a factory 16G actuator would fit this cover.

That is a bit of a bummer. Looks like a pretty meaty area on the discharge tube. I'm sure you could drill and tap it for some sort of mount there. Although if I go through the trouble of taking my turbo off again, I'd install a cheap external gate on the dump tube.

I think I'd be a little worried about running the wheel in that kit as well. Who knows how well it's balanced. I'd want to buy a real IHI mitsu 20g wheel and just use the surge housing if I went this route. I rebuilt my 16g earlier this year. If this was available at the time I would have done it for sure. Now if the turbo comes off again... an HX-35 is going on. :D

I'd sure like to see some results with a converted 16g and this kit though. Hell, I'll build it and test it on my car first if someone wants to buy it for $375. Would give me the funds towards the holset conversion. :thumb:
 
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I think I’d be a little worried about running the wheel in that kit as well.

I know of a few people (myself included) who have been beating on those compressor wheels for a while without any problems. Granted, as far as failures go absence of evidence is not evidence of absence, but so far so good.

For shits n giggles, I threw one on a magnetic prop balancer and it was as balanced as the real MHI wheels I have lying around, but that only goes to about 1/10 of a gram.

^ It would fit, but you'd have to do something different with your wastegate system as there is no way in hell a factory 16G actuator would fit this cover.

What about a bracket from a 2g T25 (with a holset actuator can or whatever) and drill the back side? Plenty of meat there, since they're modeled on the greddy 3" housing.
 
A T25 bracket can actually work with a little manipulation, but the problem you'll run into is that the T25 actuator itself is very weak. I attempted to run one of them on a Frank L5 20G once and couldn't sustain more than 17psi even with the vacuum line completely removed. It would spike to 20psi but once the actuator opened the spring was too weak to pull it shut.

If you're thinking of just using the T25 bracket and installing a stiffer actuator, think again...I've already done this to the turbo mentioned above. The stiffer actuator just flexes the T25's weak bracket and you're still stuck at 17-18psi.

I ended up fabbing my own bracket for that turbo so a Holset actuator could be used:

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Using the aft bolts and a custom bracket is a much better idea than drilling the housing. Thanks for the tip. That setup looks good to me. I run some huge springs mounted on the actuator arm and vacuum to my actuator to get my WG pressures up. Seems to work well holding almost 30psi to 6500 or so. I ported mine so exh flow would "jump" the WG hole. Woudl have done a better job if it haden't already been ported by FP. :(

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Polar – You say you've been abusing the comp. wheels pretty hard? What kind of boost are you running with them? I typically spike to 35ish and settle to 27 by 7k. (although I usually shift at 6500 or so.) Do you beat on them this hard? I have no idea how much I'm over speeding this poor little 16g, but it seems to take the abuse pretty well. (the recent rebuild was due to the old engine letting go)

Thanks
 

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