2G Need to adjust clutch pedal.

[spyderdrifter]

A couple months ago I installed a new clutch master cylinder as the old one was leaking inside my car. Not a problem there and installation was straight forward. I bled the system and the pedal wasn't adjusted right. So I tried following the video from Jack's Transmissions and I still don't have a properly adjusted pedal. So now it grinds while changing gears a lot. Does anyone here have an easier method to follow for getting the pedal adjusted right? This is on my Spyder..

 

[98 Eclipse GS]

Make sure air is not going back in the system through the slave cylinder and that it is not leaking through there. Did you replace with OEM unit? Could be a possibility that it was a bad part.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I've made sure many times that everything is tight to prevent air from leaking back in. I bought a new aftermarket unit since I couldn't get an oem one. My plan is to get a rebuilt kit for my oem one and fix it so I can use the proper part.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Since the last update, I bought a rebuild kit for my oem unit, got a refund on the pos aftermarket one, and still got the same problem. I think it may be down to now needing to shim the pivot ball for the clutch fork. However, I'm not doing it. I will be doing my awd swap once I get a welding machine and won't have to worry about this crappy transmission. Will continue with it once I have the awd trans installed and go from there.

 

[pauleyman]

Crappy trans.....if your clutch dowsnt disengage now it wont after the swap either.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

The Jack's video really is the best and only way to to adjust the pedal. Perhaps just getting a new OEM unit. You may still have air in the system if you did not bench bleed the cylinder before install. I assume you also have checked out the slave cylinder condition as well?
I usually replace both of these items at the same time. They can be a real pain to bleed.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I did my best to bench bleed the master, but probably wasn't the greatest. If hypothetically it is the transmission, why would swapping it not change something? I'll be getting rid of the current one (which for some damn reason is the one that belongs in the non-turbo spyder), and putting in the awd trans.
The Jack's video is the one I've followed each time I mess with this issue.

 

[pauleyman]

I said if your clutch isnt disengaging, and it sounds as if it isnt, then the orobkem will remain later until you find and fix the root cause. Hint, it isnt the trans.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Then I misunderstood what you meant, I apologize. I really don't think the transmission is the root problem, but rather needing to shim the pivot ball possibly.

 

[pauleyman]

Shimming the pivot ball is a bandaid. A properly bled, not worn out, properly stepped flywheel with oem clutch hydraulics. ........whew.....setup will work properly. Skip any of those steps and roll the dice.

 

[keltalon]

Just curious have you checked to see if any bolts in the transmission are missing or not tighten I mean its worth a check after all of what you have gone through especially the rear one by the axle.

 

[spyderdrifter]

No I haven't checked. Never really considered that.

 

[keltalon]

No I haven't checked. Never really considered that.

keep us posted thanks.

 

[DSM_GSX01]

When this happened to me my slave and clutch master were both bad. Slave was leaking and master had a bad seal and sucking in air.

 

[cmehlxl]

working through this same issue right now. jacks video is good except its like 244p resolution , i've watched it like 20 times this week to watch which way to turn adjustment rod. the previous owner of my car installed a new slave cylinder only and bled the system multiple times. and since i got it its been hard to get into gear, wasnt a lot of pedal, and really notchy shifting and hard to find gears. downshifting was impossible. so was finding 1st after coming to a stop.

currently working for me;
after i've warmed up car and drove around, i adjusted the pedal stop switch most of the way out to let the pedal travel a bit more when foot is off of pedal. then, i adjusted the master rod so more threads were showing (clockwise when looking at the steering wheel straight on ) and now its a lot smoother. i can shift into first from a stop now. and can downshift with rev matching. and pedal has a better feel.

master rod takes some tinkering (shortening, driving, lengthening, driving, finding a happy medium) checking slave cylinder resistance by hand.
but clutch has gotten better for me by doing this. so i hope this helps.

fingers crossed

 

[spyderdrifter]

I guess I can give that a shot too. Normally after I set it, it works decent for a little while and then goes back. Thought I didn't lock the lock nut the first time, but I did. So I'll keep working at it and check the good tips you all have suggested .

 

[cmehlxl]

i'm going to add SS lines, change master to oem, and change proportioning valve and see if it continues to get better. saw a couple posts on dsmtalk where guys had similar problems and it was a bad proportioning valve

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Your clutch doesn't have a proportioning valve , only the brake master cylinder has that and it "proportions" part of the pressure to the front and the rest to the rear brakes so that you don't have more rear brake than needed, possibly putting your car into a spin when you step on the brake almost like putting on the E brake. Just for clairification.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Instead of proportioning valve, you might be thinking of the clutch accumulator valve, which sits on the front side of the transmission. I removed that years ago when I installed my SS clutch line.

 

[cmehlxl]

Instead of proportioning valve, you might be thinking of the clutch accumulator valve, which sits on the front side of the transmission. I removed that years ago when I installed my SS clutch line.

correct, my appologies