Need some direction for 7 bolt build

[tay97gst]

Well, I just took a pretty big risk and bought a 95 AWD Talon that definitely needs some love. Engine and tranny is currently out of the car based on current owner saying that the timing was off and developed a knock. I plan on having the engine completely rebuilt with new parts but really dont know where to start. My plans are to get to 450 horses on pump so I want internals that I can build once and build it right to last,(including the head). I'll seperate my questions so they are easier to see.

If I bring the engine to an engine shop will they buy the parts for me also or would I be better off buying the parts myself and have them assemble it?

What specific parts are recommended for my desired horsepower goals; like what rods, pistons, bearings, rings, etc.?

What am I looking for the machine shop to do in terms of machining; like boring(i know .20 is common), honing, etc.?

Sorry I have all these questions but I've never had to do anything like this before and I really wanna do it right the first time. Thanks for your input guys. I'll be going to a few places to get estimates and what not within a week or so.

 

[GPTourer]

If you want to use aftermarket parts you should pick them out, buy them seperately and take them in with the engine to be installed along the way. If you use a DSM builder they may rather you buy parts from them and let them supply them.

450hp is not that much and most of the stock components can handle it. I decided to use a stock 6-bolt bottom with 95 pistons and 91 rods. You may decide to use beefier aftermarket pistons and rods of which there are many many choices. The rods are the weakest part of the 7-bolt bottom I think.

They'll more then likely bore the block .020 over to make sure the block is good. They may use upgraded gaskets, new freeze plugs, they could cryo the block, use a torque plate to assemble it -there are a number of things they could do, it just comes down to your budget.

 

[cianfar]

Make a budget and do shit tons of research. I suggest you assemble it yourself or have one of the reputable vendors on tuners. Your local machine shop probaly never work on a DSM before and they most likely will mess up your engine build. Just my 2 cents.

 

[BogusSVO]

You have a goal of 450hp, that's a step in the right direction, next make a budget, then we can suggest a parts list to help you along in your build.

Before you buy any hard parts, such as rings, bearings, pistons. Get the engine apart, and inspected.

 

[tay97gst]

Is a 3k budget for the engine realistic?

 

[BogusSVO]

Thats a decent budget to work with. It will get you a solid start.

Now get the engine apart, and post pics of the block, crank, head and see what damage you need to fix before you build.

 

[tay97gst]

Thats a decent budget to work with. It will get you a solid start.

Now get the engine apart, and post pics of the block, crank, head and see what damage you need to fix before you build.

This might sound ignorant but I probably wouldnt even know how to identify what was wrong with it even if i dismantled it. I mean, ive been around this engine for 2 years but have yet to touch anything within the engine. I was just kinda hoping rebuilding the whole thing would cover all the bases and give me some piece of mind.

 

[BogusSVO]

Then get the engine out, and take it to a shop that knows the 4g, but you will need to about double your budget.

If you post the pics, then others will look at them and let you know what they see.

 

[gixrman]

I would suggest you buy a pre built motor with what you have in mind from a reputable vendor. Save yourself a lot of aggravation. Nit picking parts can soon become overwhelming and blow your budget.

 

[tay97gst]

I would suggest you buy a pre built motor with what you have in mind from a reputable vendor. Save yourself a lot of aggravation. Nit picking parts can soon become overwhelming and blow your budget.

I was thinking about something like that but is that within a budget of 3k?

 

[BogusSVO]

Check with the supporting vendors.

But I would not be expecting a forged piston/H beam rod bottom end.

 

[gixrman]

I think you need to sit down and look at what your going to need to get you to your goals. By your profile info you will need more than just a motor to get 450hp. And why 450? What are you going to be doing with the car? what turbo did you have in mind? You can get a good short block for around 2k and keep your stock head just deck it. I would suggest getting DSMlink and looking at fuel upgrades after that.

 

[killercolt]

I have a better solution for you for 3000. Call one of those jdm engine place up and get a complete 6 bolts from them. Buy new timing sets and put it one. Upgrade head up with a arp head studs, cams, spring, retainers and maybe a mls gasket. Then start throwing performance parts at it.

Jdm 6 bolts-$1000-1500
Arp head studs-65-100
Mls head gasket-80-200
Timing set-150-270
Spring and retainer-200-350
Cams-360-550
Ecmlink-450-550

Head rebuid:
Machine work to Deck head flat if needed-50-100
Assemble new springs-50-100
New valve stem seals-20-50
If you just get the head deck and do everything yourself, you will save a bunch of money. If you get a mild cams with low lift and not going to rev past 8000rpm, you can just use factory springs and retainers.

If you don't get a flywheel with the jdm motor, you will need to get that too. If you do it yourself and shop around, you can save enough money to get a performance clutch too.

 

[tay97gst]

Guys, i understand everything i need to get to 450. Im building this engine to withstand 450 so when i get there i can have peace of mind. I'll take your advice and do my own research on engines

 

[carvinbassplyr]

I'm surprised no one has told him to ditch the 7 bolt right off the bat . Even if you rebuild the motor you run the risk of the dreaded crankwalk because it's in the the worst year range (95-96) known for having that problem. You could try to update your 7 bolt block to the 99 7 bolt thrust washer/oil squirter design or buy a 99 7 bolt if you're really wanting to keep a 7 bolt, but I would suggest going with a 6 bolt, 1G block with 1G rods and 2G pistons. That combo can handle up to about 500hp, and you can choose which head to use based on what you want out of the car (1G heads give you better top end and 2G heads give you better low-midrange torque). Also know that you better do some upgrades to your tranny (at least a 4 spider center diff and torrington bearing mod) cause 450hp can get you intro trouble and leave your tranny in pieces behind you on the freeway.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Dude quit believing into all the hype!! I had 240k on my 95 7bolt running consistent low 12's and never crankwalked. And my next motor build is a 98 7bolt and plan to push that sucker into the 5-600 hp.

 

[carvinbassplyr]

Dude quit beleiving into all the hype!! I had 240k on my 95 7bolt running consistent low 12's and never crankwalked. And my next motor build is a 98 7bolt and plan to push that sucker into the 5-600 hp.

It's not hype bro, it's a FACT that it was a flawed design to which even Mitsu admits. If it was a non issue then Mitsu never would've felt the need to "fix it" in the 2gb motors or go with the different design in the Evo 7 bolts. I personally wouldn't want to gamble a 3k+ motor build on a chance that it may or may not walk. If you run a heavy flexplate clutch assembly and don't disable the clutch pedal kill switch you WILL walk a 2ga 7 bolt because the tension on the thrust bearings will wear them out and the lack if oil at start up will cause metal-metal contact.

 

[Dsmkauai]

It's still hype bro and doesn't happen that often. Ever company redesigns there products to improve performance and longevity it's just the way technology advances, anyway back on topic!