Need more POWER!!!

[SBstar]

Perform a basic boost leak test and ensure all leaks are out of the system, fix the crack in the valve cover.

Also please list all your mods in your profile, you say you have an exhaust already, what is it/what size? Anything else aftermarket on the car?

Perhaps I'm confused. I'll be the only one here to say that I don't think you need tuning stuff right away. They're good mods, and definately important down the road, but they aren't needed at this point. A logger is a good idea though so you can keep track of what the car is doing. There is much to be gained by tuning your car, but it is not necessarily the best first option.

So 1st buy a logger.

Now I would assume you have a manual which means you have a 14b turbo in the car currently, the 14b has been ran to the max on stock injectors, so I'm going to dismiss the idea of getting those larger injectors for the time being. Sometime down the road you might want to upgrade, but for now go ahead and stick with the 450cc's in there.

Free mods.
These will gain you a little bit of power and give you something to do with the car, getting you into modding it and working on it.

Hack the 1g maf properly.
Leave the little screw alone, take out the lower honey comb, leave the top square one alone, and remove the lower chamber wall divider, here is a pic with the part you will be grinding out. Grind out the part circled in red only!

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Put in new spark plugs and wires. Essential for running properly, you don't need some crazy great spark plug wires but get something better then the stock replacement from autozone. NGK bpr6es should be fine or you can go a step colder to the bpr7es.

Upgrade your fuel pump, the stock system won't flow enough, get a walbro 190, or get a 255lph pump, but I highly recommend an afpr if you go with the 255.

Get a 2g manifold if you don't already have one, port it or buy it ported. Port your turbine housing for your turbo, and port your O2 housing. All worthwhile mods, if you need info on how to do this search or check vfaq.com

Grind out the edge in the stock 1g throttle body elbow. This makes for smoother airflow.

Turn up the boost, watching the logger carefully to ensure you aren't hitting knock. If you're running pump gas you'll probably end up somewhere around 17-19psi provided the rest of the car is sorted well.

You'll notice a good increase in power and you won't have spent much at all. Other free mods include getting rid of the coolant going through your throttle body, getting rid of all emissions crap, and taking a bit of weight out of the car (a/c is pretty popular to get rid of, especially since it rarely works in these old cars anyways).

That's where I would start at least. From there tuning stuff would be within the next few steps.

 

[dsm-onster]

If he hacks his maf by pulling the lower honeycomb he'll gain about 5% more flow per hertz. Not a gain in flow, but a leaner mix that will also bump already aggressive 1g timing. Fortunately a 1g car has an adjustable cas.

As well, hacking that much will also likely affect idle and town driving. Sometimes it doesn't, some times it does. But once it's done it's donw and he'll need another maf if he doesn't like the results.

The stock turbo has plenty of breath in it for 300whp. That's about 100whp over stock. So yes stick with your stock turbo. As well the stock fuel pump (rewired as suggested) is good for abotu 300whp. And the stock fuel injectors are good for abotu that as well. The stock sidemount intercooler really starts choking things up and greatly heatsoaking at about 270ish whp; just under your goal.

You just need a means to up the boost and log the results and a means to lean out the fuel. You get more power from boost than timing with pumpgas. An safc adds timing when leaning out. A 1g timing map is too aggressive to get good pumpgas numbers with a small turbo anyway. But you can remedy that with just retarding your base timing 2-3 degrees. The good thing about the safc. IS that you can choose where in the rpm the hertz count is affected. Unlike hacking your maf, yhou can have your car run fine at idle and light throttle; then when going WOT after a certain rpm you can get the benefits of MUCH better a/f ratios. And again the base timing can be adjusted accordingly to compensate for any overly aggresive timing.

 

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Naaawwwwzzzz. No seriously.

 

[JEFFREYCASTGSX]

I cant believe were still suggesting AFC's.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tun...l-free-speed-density-tuning-software-1gs.html
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-tuning-ecu/264625-dsmap-install-thoughts.html
DSMAP | bringing NATIVE Speed Density to 1st Gen DSM's since 2005

 

[dsm-onster]

I can't believe that you think a $250+ ecu plus the $180 doesn't cost twice as much as a new SAFC You can get a used one for $100.

The guy just wants 50whp over stock.

 

[gingerbredman00]

well I believe my clutch just spent to much of my go fast money..
unless I can get this slightly used one for $50
plus wheels $300
tires $400
Exhaust $200-400
that is alot more than I was planning on spending. I figured I would do wheels and tires to help with the traction and do small mods through the year.
maybe next incometax I can go with some BIG power?
or get a 2g gsx/tsi and throw my 6bolt in there sell the rest and have more money for mods..