Need help.. Please

[Pigbenis]

Hello I know I'm a "newb" and I am going to get all kinds of crap from people on here but i have a 99 eclipse I paid $1000 for from my brother and it's got quite a bit done to it . Any ways I can't get it runing 100% I know it needs tuned I my brother lost tune on it when he put a new battery in . But I'm having voltage drop under load I replaced alternator , new optima red top, put all new lugs on grounds and new terminals on the bAttery and this seemed to help out a little bit. But the other problem I am having is my boost isn't steady it bounces Around at 15 psi and every gear besides first it starts missing at about 4000 rpm I have new plugs the wires are nkg appear to be in decent shape no tears . I did a boost leak test had no big leaks very very small at TB and one on my BOV adjustment screw . The engine was rebuild 38,000 miles ago . I did a cylinder leak down test and was loosing about 3% on a warm engine. Also my BOV is fluttery when I shift at higher rpm and sounds normal at Lower Rpm. I have dsm link v2 I've searched literally for months and still can't figure out realy how to use it correctly I have a hard time understanding it . Can someone please help me ! I realy like these cars but I don't know anyone who has any knowledge about heavily modified turbo cars . here is a list of my mods that I know of.
Ev03 "gt" turbo
Front mount inter cooler
Greddy Rs bov
2.5 intercooler piping
Pillar mount gauge pod
Auto meter boost gauge
Afr gauge (narrow)
fluid harmonic dampener
95 ecu with Dsm link
Stainless 3in down pipe + exhaust (no cats) (cheap eBay exhaust)
Maf translator 2.02
3in Gm maf sensor
New Optima red topbattery
Voltage gauge
Short ram air intake
K&n air filter
Manual boost controller
850 cc injectors
Forced performance exhaust manifold
Engine rebuilt at 98k at 133k now
New rear 02 sensor
New alternator I have a few data logs but not sure how to adjust everything . Spark plugs are showing kind of white tips with carbon on inside but the insulators are clean .

 

[Pigbenis]

If you're replacing the pcv I also recommend installing an inline check valve in the hose to the Mani. Insurance.

Ur taking the hose

If you're replacing the pcv I also recommend installing an inline check valve in the hose to the Mani. Insurance.

Can't be after air filter either
Has to be after turbo

what is this going to different for the waste gate tho it was fine at one point in time the way it was hooked up so why change it now? Here is the way it is hooked. Up now . intake to a t -to the BOV and the waste gate . I'm just getting confused on how this would help my car missing and stuttering ?

 

[pauleyman]

Ur taking the hose


what is this going to different for the waste gate tho it was fine at one point in time the way it was hooked up so why change it now? Here is the way it is hooked. Up now . intake to a t -to the BOV and the waste gate . I'm just getting confused on how this would help my car missing and stuttering ?

It wouldn't. I ran mine like this for 10 years. Some will disagree but I tee the bov line to an mbc. Been that way a long long time. You can run straight to wg

 

[ThunderChild]

Regardless of how it WAS hooked up, you need to hook it up correctly.

Anything between the compressor outlet and the tb will give you a boost-only source, pre-intercooler is just preventing pressure/signal dilution. Your bov shouldn't be T'd into anything ideally (not saying this doesn't work), just run to the intake mani post-tb for boost/vacuum reference. Fpr can be t'd to the boost gauge.

If you cant get a boost only signal to the WG, you need to have a nipple or port installed. Easy way is to remove the compressor housing and drill/tap for a 1/8th npt port and install a 1/8th npt brass barb fitting.

 

[petegsx]

Any new progress?

 

[Pigbenis]

It wouldn't. I ran mine like this for 10 years. Some will disagree but I tee the bov line to an mbc. Been that way a long long time. You can run straight to wg

I actually did bypass the boost controller like someone said on here it was only hitting 6-7 psi but I could get higher in the rpms 5-6k- without it missing and the BOV didn't have a fluttery noise to it . I feel like a lot of my problems are coming from the tune tho idk if the Gm maf is screwing up my afr . I don't have a wideband I have a afr gauge tho but it says I'm runing rich at full boost .but the gauge jumps all over the place when I'm just cruising so I take it it's not very accurate .my needle on boost gauge is never steady it rattles back and forth under any boost not under vacuum tho.i can't figure it out . I have no idea how tune with dsm link everything I read on how to use it just confuses the hell out of me .

 

[Pigbenis]

Any new progress?

Not realy any yet

 

[Pigbenis]

Regardless of how it WAS hooked up, you need to hook it up correctly.

Anything between the compressor outlet and the tb will give you a boost-only source, pre-intercooler is just preventing pressure/signal dilution. Your bov shouldn't be T'd into anything ideally, just run to the intake mani post-tb for boost/vacuum reference. Fpr can be t'd to the boost gauge.

Ok I get what your saying now