Need help.. Please

[Pigbenis]

Hello I know I'm a "newb" and I am going to get all kinds of crap from people on here but i have a 99 eclipse I paid $1000 for from my brother and it's got quite a bit done to it . Any ways I can't get it runing 100% I know it needs tuned I my brother lost tune on it when he put a new battery in . But I'm having voltage drop under load I replaced alternator , new optima red top, put all new lugs on grounds and new terminals on the bAttery and this seemed to help out a little bit. But the other problem I am having is my boost isn't steady it bounces Around at 15 psi and every gear besides first it starts missing at about 4000 rpm I have new plugs the wires are nkg appear to be in decent shape no tears . I did a boost leak test had no big leaks very very small at TB and one on my BOV adjustment screw . The engine was rebuild 38,000 miles ago . I did a cylinder leak down test and was loosing about 3% on a warm engine. Also my BOV is fluttery when I shift at higher rpm and sounds normal at Lower Rpm. I have dsm link v2 I've searched literally for months and still can't figure out realy how to use it correctly I have a hard time understanding it . Can someone please help me ! I realy like these cars but I don't know anyone who has any knowledge about heavily modified turbo cars . here is a list of my mods that I know of.
Ev03 "gt" turbo
Front mount inter cooler
Greddy Rs bov
2.5 intercooler piping
Pillar mount gauge pod
Auto meter boost gauge
Afr gauge (narrow)
fluid harmonic dampener
95 ecu with Dsm link
Stainless 3in down pipe + exhaust (no cats) (cheap eBay exhaust)
Maf translator 2.02
3in Gm maf sensor
New Optima red topbattery
Voltage gauge
Short ram air intake
K&n air filter
Manual boost controller
850 cc injectors
Forced performance exhaust manifold
Engine rebuilt at 98k at 133k now
New rear 02 sensor
New alternator I have a few data logs but not sure how to adjust everything . Spark plugs are showing kind of white tips with carbon on inside but the insulators are clean .

 

[Pigbenis]

Some of my plugs maybe to help diagnose

 

[TalonHermit]

Do you have a check engine light?
What PSI did you do a boost leak test at? And did you pressurize the system or did you just do the soapy water while running?
Also do you have v2 but using the V3 program?

 

[TalonHermit]

Also is the tune completely gone because you need to compensate for injectors. Your settings should be global -47% dead time 330 for fuel injector clinic injectors should get you somewhere close to what you need though. Double check the end tuning website for more info.
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/baseinjectordata
Here is also the "QuickStart guide dsm link"
https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecmlink101
I was in your shoes earlier this month.

 

[Pigbenis]

I tested it about 15 psi and I did pressurize the system at the turbo , the dsmlink is programmed for my injectors so my dead time is 330 and my global is -47 . My boost gauge is never steady tho it bounces realy fast back and forth . Weird thing is I never throw any codes on it I know it should of my rear 02 was ripped off when I got it I hooked it up to my scanner won't pull any history codes or DTC's Or on dsmlink either . I noticed my cel flash one time when My car started stuttering about 4500rpm but my data log is showing no knock my brother said it has a 95. Ecu . I have the latest version of ecm link but it will only. Let
Me use the v2 I heard it is a lot more limited then the latest version but I'm in the middle of a pretty pricey build on my 383 for my z28 so I want to keep it somewhat of a lower budget on my eclipse . I know it was very fast when my brother first got it it was runing from 18 to 21 psi and supposedly made around 300hp at the wheels

 

[TalonHermit]

Try pressurizing it at 20-30psi to account for boost spike. I know a rule of thumb is double what you intend to do for stock boost I'm unsure though though on more boost. But it sounds like you're hitting boost leak or of fuel cut. When it gets to higher rpms can you pass to redline if you gas it slow? I know in v3 you can disable the rear o2 not sure about v2 though.

It sounds like boost leak though if it was running about 15psi it could be a leak that appears closer to 18-20 psi and that is why the test didnt show it. Do you have a boost controller? IF so have you tried just running the turbo off of waste-gate only?

Is the boost bouncing at full boost or the whole time above idle. Being a 16g it could also be boost creep with the bouncing. I cant remember for sure but I think if you port the turbo it helps with that. If you search 16g boost creep it should help with that.

 

[Pigbenis]

I have a boost controller it's just a adjustment knob under the hood The needle on my boost gauge is only bouncing when I'm under boost . I never red lined it when it starts stuttering and missing but even I barley touch the gas the same still misses and doesn't run right after 4000rpm . I'm not to sure on what you mean by running the turbo off the wastegate only tho?

 

[lasershark]

I'm not to sure on what you mean by running the turbo off the wastegate only tho?

Hooking the wastegate actuator directly to the boost source (aka not using the boost controller)
Also a rule of thumb is to BLT 5-10 psi above your target boost pressure.

 

[Pigbenis]

So run a a line from the intake manifold to the wastegate? Or? What about the BOV . Also the silicon hose to the waste gate looks like it may be a little kinked from the air intake being directly above it it sits on the hose going to the boost controller

 

[Pigbenis]

Hooking the wastegate actuator directly to the boost source (aka not using the boost controller)
Also a rule of thumb is to BLT 5-10 psi above your target boost pressure.

And would this be hard on my turbo or engine would it create to much boost hooking up the wastegate to wherever I'm sopposed to? (I just commented above didn't realize I could reply to a comment )

 

[ThunderChild]

Run the waste gate line directly to a pressurized pipe, preferably off the compressor housing or the pipe between the comp. Housing and intercooler. This will only allow the turbo to make boost as high has the waste gate is set too, which will be lower vs. using a boost controller. It won't cause damage to the car or turbo unless something is already damaged or completely wrong.

Leave the bov hooked to the intake manifold. If the WG line is kinked, that may be part of your issue.

 

[Pigbenis]

Ok I will try that if this fixes my issue tho what will this indicate? Bad wastegate actuator ?

Run the waste gate line directly to a pressurized pipe, preferably off the compressor housing or the pipe between the comp. Housing and intercooler. This will only allow the turbo to make boost as high has the waste gate is set too, which will be lower vs. using a boost controller. It won't cause damage to the car or turbo unless something is already damaged or completely wrong.

Leave the bov hooked to the intake manifold. If the WG line is kinked, that may be part of your issue.

Ok I will try that but if it fixes the issue I'm having what will that mean is wrong ?

 

[Pigbenis]

So took off boost controller ran the line from intake manifold straight to the waste gate it seemed much better wasn't realy missing that I noticed I could get my rpms to 6k the BOV didn't sound like it was fluttery

 

[TalonHermit]

What was your boost gauge reading? This could mean faulty boost controller or boost leak at higher boost. Bust most likely a boost leak.
I noticed from your last picture that there was a filter on your intake. Where is your GM maf sensor located and are you venting your BOV to the atmosphere. That can also cause a problem.

 

[Pigbenis]

What was your boost gauge reading? This could mean faulty boost controller or boost leak at higher boost. Bust most likely a boost leak.
I noticed from your last picture that there was a filter on your intake. Where is your GM maf sensor located and are you venting your BOV to the atmosphere. That can also cause a problem.

Boost was about 5 or 6 psi I'm not recirculating the BOV never has been since my brother owned it and never cause problems. I tried to post a video of boost gauge but it wouldn't work for some reason

 

[lasershark]

I'm not recirculating the BOV

Not a problem as the gm maf is between your bov and throttle body...

 

[Pigbenis]

So what is my next step on what to do to my car when I dos the boost leak test I had air pressure building up in my valve cover I could hear the oil cap hissing also . And air from the Pcv valve I think that's where most of it was leaking from when I did the test also tiny leak at TB and tiny leak from top of blow off valve and my boost controller but I thought it was supposed to leak from the boost controller bleeding off pressure . Cylinder leakdown tested good tho about the same on all cylinders .

 

[TalonHermit]

Your oil cap could be leaking or not tight. But most likely it is your PCV valve. I had a similar problem earlier this month and found it to be a faulty pcv valve. You can remove it and check it by blowing air into it. They tend not to seal well even if new.
Another less likely thing could be valve stem seals but that would also include burning oil.
I would also see if the TB is tightened down all the way. Or is it leaking from the Idle screw? If it is the idle screw it could be a worn o-ring.

 

[Pigbenis]

Your oil cap could be leaking or not tight. But most likely it is your PCV valve. I had a similar problem earlier this month and found it to be a faulty pcv valve. You can remove it and check it by blowing air into it. They tend not to seal well even if new.
Another less likely thing could be valve stem seals but that would also include burning oil.

Yea the seal is no good on cap but my question is is there sopposed to be build up of pressure in the valve cover? Also the pcv valve I can blow into witch I thought it was sopposed to let air out but not in . I don't think it's burning oil at all tho no smoke or anything oil level doesn't go down also when I put pressure on the system doing a boost leak test I kinda heard like oil dripping

 

[ThunderChild]

You need to move the waste gate vacuum line from the intake manifold to a boost-only source. Like I said, preferably from the compressor housing or the intercooler piping before the intercooler.

If you can blow back through the pcv valve, it's bad and you need to replace it, as it's leaking boost pressure into the crank case. This bad for a lot of reasons.

 

[PlanZero]

If you're replacing the pcv I also recommend installing an inline check valve in the hose to the Mani. Insurance.

 

[Pigbenis]

You need to move the waste gate vacuum line from the intake manifold to a boost-only source. Like I said, preferably from the compressor housing or the intercooler piping before the intercooler.

If you can blow back through the pcv valve, it's bad and you need to replace it, as it's leaking boost pressure into the crank case. This bad for a lot of reasons.

You need to move the waste gate vacuum line from the intake manifold to a boost-only source. Like I said, preferably from the compressor housing or the intercooler piping before the intercooler.

If you can blow back through the pcv valve, it's bad and you need to replace it, as it's leaking boost pressure into the crank case. This bad for a lot of reasons.

I have no hook up on my turbo for a vacuum line nor the pipeing . the boost source only tho , wouldn't anything past the air filter have vacuum also?

 

[PlanZero]

Huh? The pcv valve is screwed into the top rear passenger side of the valve cover.

 

[pauleyman]

I have no hook up on my turbo for a vacuum line nor the pipeing . the boost source only tho , wouldn't anything past the air filter have vacuum also?

No. It would not

 

[pauleyman]

Can't be after air filter either
Has to be after turbo