Need Help! CV Axle snapped!

[iRepDSM]

So to make this short and sweet. I did a launch at about 4 grand and i dumped the clutch and no barely and barely any movement ad a big bang happened and something started rattling. Looked underneath and my passenger side CV Axle snapped off inside of the diff. So i limped it slowly to my garage 10kms away and there it sits.

SO my questions are:

How the EFF do i get that snapped cv axle half that's inside the diff out?

And what are some tips and suggestions about going about the removal and installation of the new cv axle. Maybe a step by step wouldn't hurt as well.


Any help is much appreciated.

THanks

 

[DSMDirkah]

Take the other axle out and use a thin (preferably copper) punch to drive it out. If you had a LSD for the front this makes it much easier of course, but you can still find something that will fit.

 

[pj91gsx]

This is going to be a PITA to get out. There is a c-clip ring that holds that axle in. If you have any part to pull on the axle that will be great. if you dont have anything to pull on . weld something to it and pull. otherwise you have to take the transmission apart.

 

[johnmarines]

This happened to me about 2 months ago. Justy remove the other axle and take a long skinny screwdriver and use it as a punch. After a few wacks it will just pop out if your lucky.

 

[dented_coffee]

VHAT A TWEEST. That just happend to me yesterday but I wasn't launching or anything . I was driving down the road and as soon as I decided to give it some gas to get up to 35mph from 30mph and I herd a rumbling so I started to slow down easily and a herd a clang, tink tink tink as I watched the shattered bits of the inner axle fly acrost the road into oncomming traffic. I had to ducktape the cup back together with a crap ton of layers of tape and slid it back on and limped home doing under 10mph . Gotta love improvisations in bad situations.

I got a new axle yesterday before autozone closed and now I get to put it on today so I can get another car out of the driveway .

To my reolection the trans isnt able to do that with taking the other side out and poping it out with a long punch or something of that sort. Hes AWD and yours is FWD. I could be wrong but I'm sure that the front diff section is different and that method can't be done on the AWD trans.

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE

 

[DSMDirkah]

No sir. It will work fine with either transmission. The only thing is that the AWD transfer case might get in the way but it's still no biggie (you can remove it if need be). No need to weld or anything like that, the method I have suggested works. I have done it before.

 

[iRepDSM]

No sir. It will work fine with either transmission. The only thing is that the AWD transfer case might get in the way but it's still no biggie (you can remove it if need be). No need to weld or anything like that, the method I have suggested works. I have done it before.

Alright so let me get this right. i remove the driver side wheel. Pull the driver side cv axle out of the diff and slide a long punch through to the other side and hammer that beast out. Sound right?

And any tips on what to do when pulling the driver side cv axle out without damaging or hurting anything or should i simply just yank er' out?


Thanks

 

[dented_coffee]

To get the drivers side axle out and the carrier shaft out follow this list.

1 remove the drivers side wheel (usually 19mm or 3/4" lugs)
2 remove the axle nut and cotter pin off the axle (1 1/4" have someone hold the breaks really hard)
3 remove the 2 17mm bolts and 17mm nuts holding the spindal to the front strut (leave top bolt in for next step)
4 remove the cotter pin and 17mm nut off the tie rod arm (hit the spindle with hammer arround the side of the hole for the tie rod arm end) no pickle fork means no damaged dust boots.
5 under the A/C bracket there is 2 14mm bolts holding the carrier shaft tight to the engine (remove both of them) there about 1.5 inches up from the surface of the oil pan and about 2.5" acrost from each other.
6 remove the bolt left in place at the shock to tilt the spindal
7 slide outter cup of cv shaft out of spindal and slide the assembly toward you (the carrier shaft will follow the cv shaft out of the trans and threw the wheel well)

Assembly is in the reversed order. I used red thread locker on the 2 14mm bolts holding the carrier shaft to the engine block for added security when I torqued them down.

 

[iRepDSM]

To get the drivers side axle out and the carrier shaft out follow this list.

1 remove the drivers side wheel (usually 19mm or 3/4" lugs)
2 remove the axle nut and cotter pin off the axle (1 1/4" have someone hold the breaks really hard)
3 remove the 2 17mm bolts and 17mm nuts holding the spindal to the front strut (leave top bolt in for next step)
4 remove the cotter pin and 17mm nut off the tie rod arm (hit the spindle with hammer arround the side of the hole for the tie rod arm end) no pickle fork means no damaged dust boots.
5 under the A/C bracket there is 2 14mm bolts holding the carrier shaft tight to the engine (remove both of them) there about 1.5 inches up from the surface of the oil pan and about 2.5" acrost from each other.
6 remove the bolt left in place at the shock to tilt the spindal
7 slide outter cup of cv shaft out of spindal and slide the assembly toward you (the carrier shaft will follow the cv shaft out of the trans and threw the wheel well)

Assembly is in the reversed order. I used red thread locker on the 2 14mm bolts holding the carrier shaft to the engine block for added security when I torqued them down.

That helps so much man.

Thanks so much. Greatly appreciated.

Happy holidays

 

[sniver]

I'd also wonder if you damaged your viscous couple for the center diff.

And check to see if you ripped the cv shaft seal while its apart, suck to reassemble and have a leak.

I know this is an evo's but ours is similar in the fact that the shafts in the way.
You think theres enough room to get a screwdriver past the spider gear shaft?

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[dented_coffee]

Well after a few min of looking at that picture and ways to do it. I think I have a clue.

The retaining clip on the cv shaft clips after the edge of the gear on the left and the right I think. So the cv shaft end basically rides close to or possibly touches the spider gear shaft. I think a nice clean flat head screw driver might be able to be carfully placed to one side of the spiders shaft to rest on the edge of the c/v's splined shaft to hit the screw driver with a dead blow hammer to at least get the part of the c/v shafts retaining clip past the lock point to bring it out enough to grip it with a good set of needle nose pliars or a smaller extremely long and clean screw driver to push it out the rest of the way from the back side of the trans.

Who knows!!!! Lets just hope he don't have a 4 gear spider in his trans. Then that method might be a no go.

scooby snack please .

 

[BLINKY619]

id drill a hole right down the middle and put a bolt or something that would hang on and pull it out...

 

[EclipticalGS]

ugghh be in for some work. I find it almost easier to just to pull both knuckles completely off the car.

Take axle cotter pin and nut off first, screw crown nut on axles enough to where beating on the axle wont mess up the threads or the crown nut. (i usually screw it on till its flush).

Two lower control arm nuts (lateral/curved), upper ball joint nut, tie rod nut, and strut mounting bolts need to be taken off.

Now that the axles loose in the knuckle assembly, and knuckles are free, pull them out till the axles able to pull free.

When all axles are out and your stuck with that little piece in the diff. still, pop a skinny screwdriver or long skinny brass punch and tap it out through the other side.

If your axles are rust-welded into the wheel bearing its possible you may have to use a cutting torch or sweat the axle loose.

If its really bad, Id go about getting your wheel bearings out and replaced.

Good luck.

 

[sniver]

id drill a hole right down the middle and put a bolt or something that would hang on and pull it out...

You will never, ever, drill a hole into that without a drill press, and sharpening the drill bit every 15 seconds.

ugghh be in for some work. I find it almost easier to just to pull both knuckles completely off the car.

Take axle cotter pin and nut off first, screw crown nut on axles enough to where beating on the axle wont mess up the threads or the crown nut. (i usually screw it on till its flush).

Two lower control arm nuts (lateral/curved), upper ball joint nut, tie rod nut, and strut mounting bolts need to be taken off.

Now that the axles loose in the knuckle assembly, and knuckles are free, pull them out till the axles able to pull free.

When all axles are out and your stuck with that little piece in the diff. still, pop a skinny screwdriver or long skinny brass punch and tap it out through the other side.

If your axles are rust-welded into the wheel bearing its possible you may have to use a cutting torch or sweat the axle loose.

If its really bad, Id go about getting your wheel bearings out and replaced.

Good luck.

Are you talking about a 1g? Quentin described it perfectly.



I have a trans here in front of me, you going to need something pretty skinny. I can get a 12 inch long 3/16" thick, 1/2" chisel through to the other side. Hope that helps a little. out diff looks the same as the pic if you cant see whats going on in hter

 

[iRepDSM]

Alright so tackled the cv axle today. Took probably 20 minutes. It broke off at the inner cv boot so i had lots to grab onto to pull the half in the diff out. Just grabbed a slide hammer and one punch and out. Was really easy by following your guide Quentin. Thanks again.


Now i just have to put the new one in tomorrow and i'll be done. Any tips and things to check while installing the new one?

 

[johnmarines]

Install a new axle seal....

 

[dented_coffee]

Not a problem. I was posting sizes, and locations by memory. I have had to remove them nuts and bolts so manny times I should be able to do it blind folded now .

Replace the seals like stated above, inspect the splines in the trans, peer threw the hole to see if there is any diff damage in the trans or debris sticking arround that area.

I tend to take and lube the splines on the cv shaft with the fluid thats in the trans before sliding it in. Its been a habbit. Make sure you put antiseize or lube on the wheel side of the cv shafts splines to prevent it from rust welding its self into the hub.