2G Need help car is idling at over 2000

[MasterMatt209]

I’ll add the video here of how the car is idling anyone have any idea why it would be like this? I can’t even shift into reverse to move my car because the rpm is way too high. Fuel pressure is right at 43. Car is a 95 GSX

Here is a link to the video:

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[007jimmy]

I have a spare brand new.

I've been through this. I bought a throttlebody off of throttlebodys.com and I got sent the wrong o-ring in the kit that was sent. Was wayyyyy to thick and when I honked it down because it leaked I broke my ISC in the same exact spot. Went to extreme psi for a OEM o-ring and had to wait for a new ISC in the mail. Also I'd like to say the throttle stop was not adjusted correctly and it caused the same issue as the OP. I realized that when I tightened the stop down the idle came with it. Not saying this is the OP problem but my BLT test came back perfect but had a 2000+ idle. Steady idle, no surging.

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Edit: OEM seal left
Supplied TB kit seal on the right

 

[AWD-Tony]

That's a huge difference. His idle wasn't fluctuating in the video but from what he says, it is. So I'm a little confused. I do suspect it's something mechanical and not a leak.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I would adjust the idle stop and get the runaway train slowed down.

 

[007jimmy]

That's a huge difference. His idle wasn't fluctuating in the video but from what he says, it is. So I'm a little confused. I do suspect it's something mechanical and not a leak.

Definitely is idling at a steady rpm in that video. OP if you can 100% verify you have no boost leaks (and I mean double triple check!) then adjust your throttle plate stop. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw to adjust how much your throttle plate opens and closes. Turn the screw in small increments until you reach your desired idle. Again since this is factory set you need to make sure you properly performed a BLT. Here is a picture (yours) for reference. Mitsubishi eliminated this screw in later 2g models as my stock 97 did not have a screw. It was a solid cast piece so there was no adjustment.

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[Vegas Smith]

This is all textbook high idle/idle surge stuff. First, check my thread that I made that has a ton of idle advice:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-book-of-random-tuning-tips.511262/

1) Make sure you have no vacuum leaks by BLTing at the throttle body elbow
2) Set your throttle cable
4) set the throttle plate stop
3) Set your biss screw/isc position
4) make sure your fuel trims aren't ridiculously out line

Most of this is covered in my thread. Everything else is easily found by searching

 

[ishnish]

Okay I did an ISC Test here is the video. Can anyone tell me if this means it’s good or bad?

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Am I the only one who thinks his ISC is bad? Honestly I think that's your issue. No point in trying to mess with it if it doesn't work. It's literally twitching in the video and not extending one bit. I'd say that's your issue.

Also, to add, are you 100% certain that your throttle plate sits correctly in your tb? A good way to test is it to pull your throttle cable (opening the throttle plate) to increase the rpm in your car, then letting go and see what happens to your rpm. Then, see if you're able to physically close your throttle plate more by hand to see if the rpm goes down. If it does, then your throttle plate definitely is the issue and isn't sitting right. Do this before messing with the idle stop in the case that the idle stop is already perfectly set from factory.

 

[Vegas Smith]

It could be bad or isc driver in the ecu could be fried.

 

[AWD-Tony]

It definitely could be the issue and I’d replace it if it was my car. But I’d also check everything else around the TB. With that said, Last thing I want to do is tell someone that’s 100% THE problem, have him replace it and the problem still be there. Process of elimination is the way to go.

 

[ishnish]

Yeah, I just realized I should also state that the ecu should be taken out and inspected. Post pics as well for second opinions. Test the isc using the jafro video as well

 

[007jimmy]

Am I the only one who thinks his ISC is bad? Honestly I think that's your issue. No point in trying to mess with it if it doesn't work. It's literally twitching in the video and not extending one bit. I'd say that's your issue.

Also, to add, are you 100% certain that your throttle plate sits correctly in your tb? A good way to test is it to pull your throttle cable (opening the throttle plate) to increase the rpm in your car, then letting go and see what happens to your rpm. Then, see if you're able to physically close your throttle plate more by hand to see if the rpm goes down. If it does, then your throttle plate definitely is the issue and isn't sitting right. Do this before messing with the idle stop in the case that the idle stop is already perfectly set from factory.

Said it earlier. It's cracked. Replace it no matter what anyway. Then start to re-diagnose the original problem

 

[ishnish]

Yeah, regardless that needs to be replaced. I forgot about the crack. Even then though, without the surging issues, I STRONGLY suspect the throttle body assembly being the problem.

 

[MasterMatt209]

I’m going to get a new ISC tomorrow since it’s cracked anyways. I just remember I did take the TPS out is it possible I didn’t put I back right?

 

[Dsm panda]

If I where you I would pull that ecu to be sure. My car had a rock steady idle at 1800 warm isc driver was bad. Then I would start with the list Vegas gave.

 

[MasterMatt209]

If I where you I would pull that ecu to be sure. My car had a rock steady idle at 1800 warm isc driver was bad. Then I would start with the list Vegas gave.

Okay I’ll pull the ecu and check it out then

 

[ishnish]

I’m going to get a new ISC tomorrow since it’s cracked anyways. I just remember I did take the TPS out is it possible I didn’t put I back right?

Yes, it needs to be adjusted.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tps-adjustment.457984/#post-153212008

 

[Dsm panda]

Only reason I'm so set to say pull the ecu and look is becouse if you keep trying things but the ecu is bad they all will faill. Not to mention then you know for sure.

 

[MasterMatt209]

Only reason I'm so set to say pull the ecu and look is becouse if you keep trying things but the ecu is bad they all will faill. Not to mention then you know for sure.

Yeah I feel you for sure, but with a cracked ISC and non adjusted throttle body I’m sure the problem is there but I’ll take a look

 

[AWD-Tony]

If I where you I would pull that ecu to be sure. My car had a rock steady idle at 1800 warm isc driver was bad. Then I would start with the list Vegas gave.

I’m pretty sure leaking caps were mostly 1g issues

 

[Dsm panda]

Yeah but these cars are 20 years old nothing lasts forever. Anything that Can happen will happen to someone I just like to be thorough.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I had bad isc driver on my ecu. $45 for ecmlink to fix it. No big deal.

 

[ishnish]

MasterMatt209, do you have ecmlink?

In your position, the order I would do things first in is:

1) Do a proper BLT by placing the boost leak tester in the compressor inlet of the turbo:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/boost-leak-test-how-to-with-boostpro-net-tester.169435/
Verify that you have no boost leaks. Oh and if it wasn't mentioned before because I think you asked, injector seals are known to leak and yes they are easy to find and replace.

Also, check for vacuum leaks at the throttle body and intake manifold (check vacuum hoses).

2) Pull the ECU and inspect it to make sure your ISC drivers aren't fried or nothing else is leaking.

3) Test your ISC and make sure the coils are good and ISC is functioning properly (yours wasn't)

4) Make sure throttle cable is adjusted

5) If you have ECMLink, make sure your TPS, BISS, and SAS are adjusted correctly:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tps-adjustment.457984/#post-153212008

I would NOT mess with the SAS at all until everything else in the list is done in the case that the SAS was already adjusted fine to begin with because that thing should not be touched unless you really know what you're doing. It's a pain to adjust.

6) If you are STILL having high idle after all of this, let us know and we'll go from there.

 

[MasterMatt209]

Just rebuilt my throttle body with new sensors and still have the same problem

 

[chrysler kid]

Just rebuilt my throttle body with new sensors and still have the same problem

Did you read any of this thread or are you just sharing for the sake of doing it

 

[MasterMatt209]

Did you read any of this thread or are you just sharing for the sake of doing it

Yes I read the thread you think I don’t want my car fixed or what

 

[pauleyman]

You have a dead steady idle over 1500 rpm. Here is what that tells me is likely. The air is likely metered. its not possible for the car to idle steady over 1500 IF everything is correct. From experience id say your throttle is open. Here is why I think so. For idle to be above 1500 the ecu must not think the throttle is closed. On a 1g there is a switch. On a 2g its throttle position. Physically check and make sure throttle is closed. Physically push on it. If it closes and idle drops you need to adjust your throttle cable OR the spring, plate, etc have a problem that isnt letting it close. If you are sure throttle is closing then its likely you have at least the following issues. Tps is misadjusted because ecu thinks throttle is open. And isc or fiav have problems. If that idle wasn't so steady id say you have a vacuum leak. Since its so steady i dont think so. Maybe this will get you started. BTW I saw you wtb ad for tps and isc. Unless youve diagnosed those parts as bad youre jumping the gun. Isc drivers in ecu could cause this too but that wouldnt be your only problem. If ecu thought throttle was closed you would have a cycling idle.