1G idle is at 1500-2000 rpm???? what causes that?

[joshcasey]

Hey all i researched this and everything i found is nothing my car is doing, doesnt matter if its hot or cold out, when i start my car for one it barely starts sometimes and i have to keep my foot on the gas, when it starts it runs great but idles at 2000 rpm then when its warm it idles at 1500 ish rpm, if i start out too fast it boggs now like its getting too much fuel, a week or so ago my check enging light was on but since it started running like this my check engine light has been off, ive been fighting this for about a yr now and its quite frustrating...im very limited on my diagnostic equipment and refuse to take it to a shop ive been a mechanic for 6 yrs now and i have never seen this, any helpful suggestions???

 

[May1989TalonTSiAWDst]

fuel regulator, fuel purge solenoid?

 

[RatFink1096]

Have similar issue, doesnt surge but just idles at 1,700 rpm pretty constant. CEL is on but havent checked for codes yet. I went to check biss screw setting and noticed it seems to be all the way in hut i cant tell as it seems seized but ill try again when i pull throttle body to clean it since it seems to "stick" closed a tad. I have a 6 bolt in my 95 gsx so idk if im missing something since i didnt do the swap cause i noticed a bare prong on back of 1g throttle body by where the throttle cable hooks up, but idk if thats needed or not. I checked to make sure my coolant sensor was plugged in and i didnt find any boost or vacuum leaks. CAS position looks centered. Things im going to try are to clean the throttle body and MAF sensor.

 

[Zero6391]

its probably the biss screw that's messing with it. has this happened ever since u did the swap to the 6 bolt or did it just barely start doing this? and do u have dsmlink??

 

[RatFink1096]

I did not do the 6 bolt swap. I purchased the car this way and am trying to get it to just run smoothly without any major tear downs or purchases without knowing whats wrong with it. Ive had car running for almost a week now and at first it'd rev kinda high but would drop down like any other car warming up but recently it just idles as 1,500 rpm. I dont know about the dsm link. How do i check to see if i have it.i do have a 16g turbo i believe and a hallmann boost controller but am only running 450cc injectors with some bosch fuel pump relay wired in back to give more psi but idk wht fuel pressure im running to begin with. Sovif anyone here is parting with some injectors let me know.

 

[Zero6391]

hmmmm then im leaning towards the biss screw, maybe throw some pb blaster on it to get it unsiezed. its a plastic screw and for the dsm link ull have to get to the computer under the dash and remove the cover and then you will see a little red chip in there and itll say ecmtuning.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Zero6391]

but if the biss screw isn't set right itll throw the idle rpms off

 

[RatFink1096]

Did a lil wrenching today and fiddled with the cas and was able to lower rpms that way but then ran like crap so i put it back to center. I tried to get biss screw loose but sucker just wont budge free. Doesnt seem like plastic but what do i know. What abaout the throttle stop sensor thing. Doesnt that have to be plugged in if your using 1g TPS? I feel so dumb. Is there anything i should worry about while taking out ecu?

 

[Zero6391]

no it doesn't, I don't have it plugged in on mine and mine idles right at 900 rpm and im actually using a 1g NT throttle body on my car now I don't know if u feel like doing this but u want u can uninstall the throttle body and you'll be able to see the bottom part of the biss screw. if u want to u can drill it out of there carefully and replace it with this oem one

http://www.streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/biss_screw.htm

 

[Zero6391]

oh an as far as taking out the the ecu I would disconnect the battery and then be careful removing the plugs cuz they are plastic and don't slam it against anything and youll be fine

 

[RatFink1096]

Checked the ECU...no DSM link :'( and wasnt able to get idle to drop at all, i checked the plugs and they were covered in black soot so i figured its running rich....but since i bought this as a project there is alot that needs addressing....the alternator seems shot...squeels like a mofo. And as for the throttle body, i plan on taking it off and cleaning it. Ill try the biss screw then. But it seems like its in all the way so idk how much it will help. Also previous owner, ( i hate dumb idiotic people!) stripped out the threads on the head for the valve cover bolts! So theres oil on top of the valve cover. They also stripped out the threads on the turbo where it bolts up to the J pipe and also where it bolts up to manifold...what a bunch of f***ing idiots. They also have the battery relocated in the trunk and now the car wont start...idk if its a bad ground or what cause the battery and starter are new...also checked and redid the distibution box they used for the relocate. But didnt help, battery says 11.6 volts and havent checked to see what the starter is getting since its 23°F outside and seems like im in for a load of trouble..... So now i gotta figure out how to fix those issues before i can even start it again... Heres what i know about it. Its a 95 awd tsi with a 6bolt motor swapped. Has 1g head i believe. And is using 2g coils i think. Has a 16g turbo with hallman boost contoller with stock injectors, has some sort of bosch fuel relay by the fuel pump and stock ecu. With the car set up like this it should run okay i would think without raising boost past 16psi but idk as i only drove it like twice and ran like shit so i parked it. I got a bit of time till spring so what should be done to get base reading...seems like 20 people can have same symptoms and all be caused by different issues, so im hesitant on where to start.

 

[Zero6391]

project cars are fun.... but yea well for the valve cover bolts u can fix that with some helicoils which will make them stronger than before! as for the turbo maybe u can try helicoiling it or maybe tapping them to accept larger bolts? and for the battery relocate I had that problem and it was a ground and for some reason I wasn't getting a good ground in the back strut so I had to run a ground wire to the front strut and have the engine ground to there and it fixed my problem. I read somewhere that our car chassis isn't a single piece and sometimes the grounds up front wont connect with the grounds in the back so ive heard. sounds like a fun project. the good news at least the motor swap was already done for you that's a plus for what its worth

 

[Zero6391]

just don't give up on it tho, just give her some love and she will eventually love you back......

 

[91fwdnightmare]

check all the basics before you toss money down the drain, iac, throttle cable, biss adjustment, ive seen a faulty tps cause this issue a few times when it goes tits up, bad signal cause it to think it was under part throttle when actually at an idle, and when all else fails find a ecu that has no issues and plug it in, not all ecu damage is visible to the naked eye.

 

[Devildog2136]

Hi guys new to this forum this is my first eclipse. It's a 2002 eclips gs 2.4 with 205k miles and automatic. My issue is similar to the one posted but also an it different. When cold the car idles at 2k rpm but once it warms up it idles around 1500. This is in park or neutral. When I put it in gear it drops 500 rpms. So sits about 1k when warm and in gear. Runs and drives great though no surging no dying out or anything. Took it in for smog and found out the EGR monitor is not clearing. So I've been monitoring with my scanner and it's been another 3k miles and still not cleared. I'm thinking it has something to do with the idle but not sure. Any help is appreciated.

 

[RatFink1096]

I got good news guys!

 

[Devildog2136]

Don't leave us in suspense! Out with it man