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Need Advice!!!!

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1G90AWDTsi

15+ Year Contributor
272
0
Jul 7, 2007
southern, California
I've been informed and am going to buy a walbro 255 lph fuel pump for $99 on ebay and a IE-FPR Aeromotive FPR kit for $189.00. Good prices??? Do I need the "re-wire" kit?? AND why?

I have a 16g turbo (running factory boost) and 750cc fuel injectors (scaled with DSMLink) and Stock SMIC (am going to go FMIC before fine-tuning). I also have HKS Cams 264/272 among other things. I ONLY have stock fuel pump and fpr. Is the fuel man I described above good for all that?

I was also informed that a 190 lph fuel pump is fine too. I am definitely and only going to run factory boost.
 
Even a large pump at higher boost levels can start to loose voltage at high rpms causing you to run lean. The rewire will give constant voltage to the pump.

A 16g at stock boost is pretty much the same as a stock turbo. You will be fine on a stock fuel system. With the 255 or 190 pump you will beable to get I would say 15-19psi on the stock smic.

The 190lph is all the fuel you would need with a 16g and you could skip the FPR kit and spend the money on a FMIC.
 
Also, you may as well get the 255, because, well, it's the same price as the 190. Granted, you will need an adjustable fpr with the 255, and the re-wire is just a good idea with any pump. You've stated that you will only be runnign stock boost, but at least with the proper fuel modifications, you will always have the option of going larger down the line. Either way, you'll be happy.
 
Alright, I've been reading a lot of info on properly tuning. With the mods I have (I also have DSMLink);

1) what is a s-afc?
2) what does it do?
3) do I have one?
4) do I NEED one if I don't already have one? Remember, I am not going to boost past factory PSI.
 
because I almost blew my engine only after 1,000 miles and $8000 into it and soon after that I spun all the rods and scored the crank costing me $1900 to fix that. Costly experience (no boosting for me). Besides, I don't have a FMIC anyway.
 
because I almost blew my engine only after 1,000 miles and $8000 into it and soon after that I spun all the rods and scored the crank costing me $1900 to fix that. Costly experience (no boosting for me). Besides, I don't have a FMIC anyway.


You need to get an FMIC your car will like the cooler air. :thumb:
 
because I almost blew my engine only after 1,000 miles and $8000 into it and soon after that I spun all the rods and scored the crank costing me $1900 to fix that. Costly experience (no boosting for me). Besides, I don't have a FMIC anyway.

This dont make sense. Running more than stock boost will not cause you to spin all the rod bearing. Sounds like a bad build. If you dont tune the car yes you can blow a valve or melt a piston but you have dsmlink so there should be no problems. Whats the point of putting all this money into the car and still have pretty much the same power as stock.
 
I spun the bearings and scored the crank due to improper balance shaft elimination. The guy that built my engine didn't know to install a block-off bearing so I had a constant oil leak and starved the engine...spun all bearings and scored crank. I just don't want to take "any" chances, I know nothing of tuning and nothing of dsmlink even though I have it and to get my car tuned at the dyno is like waiting for christmas, it takes forever to get a spot.

Which brings me to a new question...this new "turbo" guy I have working on my car, spotted the BS elimination screw-up when he tore into my bottom-end. He said all he had to do was install the block off bearing, but I saw several parts that are included in a balance shaft elimination kit...what are they all for? and if my current mechanic only fixed the block-off bearing but didn't do the rest of what's included then what can I expect? I had the bearings/crank done this past late may and only have put 150 miles on my car since which still leaks a little oil after hard driving.
 
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