Need Advice: Removing crankshaft

[Artago]

Hi all,

I'm going to be removing the crankshaft to have it ground down and have a sleeve installed. My crankshaft has a groove on it. See here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/469162-groove-crank-shaft-end-normal-fix-pics.html

Just wanting to know if there's a good write up with pics somewhere I can use as a guide to remove this thing.

Second, I'll need to reinstall it after the sleeve has been installed. What do I need to know or watch out for when putting it back together? Any good write ups that you can recommend?

Cheers,

Tom

 

[athlete3344]

Best bet is to check a guide on rebuilds and just use the section where they give details about the crankshaft. Any well documented Journal, rebuild guide, or even Hayne's/Chilton's Manual should suffice.

Just follow directions and you should be ok.

For the reinstall, just clean it out really well. I saw a thread on a crankshaft that was heat tanked, but there was a whole bunch of gunk in the bearings. Same as above, do a quick search, and reinstall using above methods. Make sure to follow directions really well.

EDIT:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/458366-how-clean-you-4g63t-crank.html

Heres the link.

 

[Artago]

Best bet is to check a guide on rebuilds and just use the section where they give details about the crankshaft. Any well documented Journal, rebuild guide, or even Hayne's/Chilton's Manual should suffice.

Just follow directions and you should be ok.

For the reinstall, just clean it out really well. I saw a thread on a crankshaft that was heat tanked, but there was a whole bunch of gunk in the bearings. Same as above, do a quick search, and reinstall using above methods. Make sure to follow directions really well.

EDIT:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/458366-how-clean-you-4g63t-crank.html

Heres the link.

I was looking at that earlier and will definitely follow the advice given there.

Question: Do I need to remove the rear end cover to remove the crank?

 

[BogusSVO]

oil pan, front case and rear main seal plate all have to be removed to pull the crank


Also make sure you do not mix up the rod caps!! Number them, on the cap and on the rod.

You will be better off having the press fit balls removed from the crank so you can clean it.

 

[wparks]

I really can not believe you are going to go through all of the trouble to remove the crank just for this oil seal groove. I have seen many grooves like this one- it's a pretty common occurrence, and in general they do not leak once a new seal is installed unless the groove is really deep or you have two very close together with burrs, etc- Think about how much rubber wore away from the original seal lip in the process of polishing this groove- has to be like a 10:1 ratio- A new seal should seal just fine, and any residual leakage would be so very small it will not cause any problems.

For the labor and expense of pulling a crankshaft consider how many times you could pull the crank pulley and inspect the timing belt cavity to make sure it's not leaking?- you could probably check it 10 times and still put in less effort- not to mention all of the MUCH more serious problems you can cause yourself by making just one mistake or oversight in messing with your rotating assembly. Fiddling about with rotating assemblies and timing belts is not for the novice- Even experienced mechanics can easily screw up an engine because there are SO many things to keep an eye out for- many easy to make mistakes due to inexperience, improper tools or technique, cleaning, etc. For someone who has never done this before, all I can say is go very very slowly, ask lots of questions, and try to have a more experienced buddy check over your shoulder.

Personally, having just rebuilt my entire engine from the ground up, (it took all last winter) I would never consider pulling a crankshaft unless I was doing a LOT of other work while it was out to make the effort, expense and RISK worthwhile- You're going to want to fully clean the block and have it out on an engine stand- it's going to be almost impossible to do this while in the car. You're going to replace a lot of gaskets, so you will want an engine gasket kit- Consider a new set of rings at least, main/rod bearings for sure, all new seals, timing belt and all of it's related parts, new oil pump, new water pump, etc etc etc.

If you go this route, good luck- you're going to need it. Tapping in a new seal and trying it first sure seems like a low cost experiment.

 

[donniekak]

You'll need to remove the down pipe, transmission, clutch, flywheel, rear main seal housing, oil pan, timing cover, timing belt, crank sprocket, oil pump, main caps, and rod caps. I'd just replace the seal.

 

[My1GLaser]

Yeah man, just replace the seal! Mine has a small groove in it and hasn't leaked in 20k miles. Like someone said in your other thread: just don't push the seal all the way in the front case so it can ride on a fresh spot on the crank! It only needs to be about 1/16" off to not ride in that groove...

 

[Artago]

I guess I should have mentioned that the engine is out of the car right now.

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[Trilogy Turbos]

Engine is out of the car just do it. Tell the machine shop to check the crank and polish it. Replace bearings, main and rod.
Regards,

TRILOGY TURBOS

 

[Turbowing]

Take it to a machine shop and see if it can be polished