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Need advice on used wiseco's please?

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95DsManiac

Proven Member
399
13
Dec 5, 2012
Bay Point, California
Hi, I just received some wiseco 8.5:1 85.5mm 6 bolt pistons and some eagle h beam rods yesterday after waiting a couple weeks for them to get here. I purchased them off a guy on here and was told they are in good condition and drop in ready.

Well when I received them two of the rings were broke and it was missing two rod bolts. Today I took them along with my crank to my machinist to have him inspect everything for me to make sure all was good to move forward with my build.
When he first picked them up he said they were crap just by visual inspection of the skirts. They were all scratched up. Them he brought out his gauge to show me why he sid that.

He measured all four and got different measurements on all of them. Two of them were off by 2-3 one thousandths of an inch. The other two were closer to one another. He told me I need to get my money back or I can cheap out on my build and he can clean them and put something on them (I forget the name of the stuff he said he can put on them). He also said I can get the block bored per piston size? Would that even be smart at all to do? I mean that seemed a little weird to me, but like he said I can be cheap if I wanted to.

What would you all suggest about these pistons and what my machinist said? I'm really tired of buying pistons from members saying they are good and this is my second time receiving damaged, but was suppose to be drop in ready.

Any and all info and suggestions about these pistons and suggestions are highly appreciated. Thanks again.
 

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The crank has never been touched and is getting a very light turn of .010 or something like that. I know it's the smallest size bearings to order whatever that size is. Dang it , now you got me worried LOL, I'm shooting for 500 reliably with room to grow about 600 tops. Do you think I'm going at this about the wrong way?

So far i got: (things pertaining the engine)

New eagle h beam rods 200 shipped
Wiseco 9:1 CR .20 over with rings, pins, locks 449.99 shipped ( extremepsi sale right now just ordered 5 min ago)
Arp 2000 rod bolts
Nippon racing oem 4 layer mls headgasket 70.63 shipped
Gates racing blue timing belt 110.00 shipped
ACL race main and rod bearings .010" 80 something shipped.
Few other things

Do you think this is good for my goal(s)?

I hope so........
HD ???? for $15 bucks more I would have gone with arias piston. they can take anything you plan on throwing at them

For $362.00 +p.s.h rpm machine.com could have sent you a set of brand new, forged probe srs racing pistons 0.20 over with the wrist pins and retaining clips.
they dont come with piston rings, but hey get what ever rings you want.
Probe are pure junk. check the bullet forum about it.
 
Have the machine shop remove the oil galley balls from the rod throws in the crank before they grind the crank. This way all the crud build up can be removed.

Then the galley can be tapped and plugged.

Since you are going with a MLS HG, have the block decked, have them tru to take .005 or less.

Why a Nippion Racing MLS HG????

Also have the rotating assemply balanced
 
Well from what I understood from reading posts and I hope they are right, nippon racing 4 layer mls is the same as oem. Is this correct? Please say yes LOL. I just got it yesterday and it looks and feels really good. I can post pictures. It is kind of heavy too. And I wanted to push 30+ psi that's why I went mls because I know the composite will do really good if I could of gotten it o ringed but they don't do that at the machine shop I go to.
 
Ive ran a Nippon mls gasket on two of my dsms. One had a failed cometic and other was replacing a composite. Ive seen them next to an oem gasket an they are completely identical. Im running 35lbs on a hx40 on a stock bottom end and the Nippon mls has never gave me an issue unlike the cometic gasket did.
 
Have the machine shop remove the oil galley balls from the rod throws in the crank before they grind the crank. This way all the crud build up can be removed.

Then the galley can be tapped and plugged.

Since you are going with a MLS HG, have the block decked, have them tru to take .005 or less.

Why a Nippion Racing MLS HG????

Also have the rotating assemply balanced

Ill contact the shop immediately first thing in the morning to see if they did that to the crank because they already did the crank. So hopefully they did it. If not what should I do SVU? Am I in for a rude awakening if I just run it like that if they didnt do it? What do you think it would cost me to get them to do that after they already polished it and stuff?

I'm definitely getting the block decked. I dropped it off four days ago and he said it would take three weeks minimum to do my engine build, so hopefully he hasn't done that yet so I can give him your specs. I told him I was going to run a MLS and needed a minimum of 50RA so I hope he understood me. I'm also getting a head off the classifieds that is already rebuilt with a RA of 30, and he states in his thread that is "mls ready" is this true? I just literally s ent the money 30 minutes ago. I was going to buy a 2g head off you and the price didnt stop me, the core exchange did. I didn't want to have to ship it. And I'm starting to regret it because I know your work is beyond amazing. And all the goodies it comes with, man I'm just going to stop before I cry LOL. But yea, is that RA good enough for a mls?

I'm also getting the entire rotating assembly balanced, crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, everything. I'm basically having this guy do everything. He is a OG in the machining/engine building game and I trust him 99% but I never trust anyone 100%. I don't know if his prices are hi but I payed 130 for the crank work, I think 180-240 for the block work, might be more i forgot. But I think it comes out to around 700-800 bucks.

As far as the nippon racing ltd mls, do you think it was a bad idea?

Bmxr152 Ive ran a Nippon mls gasket on two of my dsms. One had a failed cometic and other was replacing a composite. Ive seen them next to an oem gasket an they are completely identical. Im running 35lbs on a hx40 on a stock bottom end and the Nippon mls has never gave me an issue unlike the cometic gasket did.

The post I was looking for LOL. I just received yesterday and I must say for a total of 70.xx shipped with tax and everything this thing is beefy. It is actually heavy and looks exactly like the oem if not one and the same. I'm talking about down to every bend, cut and everything. I'm posting pictures to show. This is a JDM NIPPON RACING LTD gasket. Ill try to find the link

JDM DSM Nippon Racing Mitsubishi 4G63T 4g63 MLS Head Gasket Turbo 1g 14B 16g | eBay

This the exact one I purchased. It got here in two days. Maybe becaus rim just 500+ mile snorts of them. I don't know. But what I do know is this gasket got me convinced and I feel comfortable putting this gasket in my car and pushing a hx35 to the limits and then a hx40. But I'm very very OCD so I change things fast. Like oil change 1500 miles, tranny fluid 5000 miles, always change gaskets and stuff like that. T belt 25/30.000 miles. You get the idea. So as long as it last that long ill be happy.

The gasket I have on my car now is off a ebay kit. Yea I said it LOL ebay kit. I used the head gasket and every other gasket it came with. So far it has held up perfectly fine boosting 22 daily and my car is good to me but I drive it hard. So I think this one will do better. Here are some pictures.
 

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Those guys over there seem to like the probe pistons.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=507146&page=4


and do alittle little more reading n asking the members that are on there what they think of probe.


If you like a piston that cracks under boost on a 4G63 then go right ahead my friends.

Supertech pistons hold up better and that is saying alot. Here is something to think about Wiseco is a 10x time better piston than that Probe and people have had them crack. There v8 stuff isnt to bad but then it comes to Imports, just paper weights.

Last time I talked to them they told me the set they sell is for N/A motors and shouldnt see boost.

You May want to see the video i post some time ago.
 
Well 600 700 hp I mean even 500 and be reliable on a stock block? Maybe it's just me but this is my dd and a stock block just won't cut it for me. I just wouldn't feel comfortable pushing 30-35+ psi through my block everyday and it be able to handle it for years. You honestly think it would be ok for me to run a stock block? Or are you saying atleast 6 bolt swap with 2g pistons? Because I'm starting to feel like your just being a smart axx? So can you please clarify with what you advised me to do please. I'm not on here to start or cause problems I only come on here to help out and to try to receive helpful hints and advice and I don't think it was helpful sorry.
 
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A close friend of mine is running 37psi on a 3076, stock block, e85 & has been doing it for a few years. Car isn't his DD but he could drive it everyday if he wanted to. If you are looking for 700+, I'd just throw in some of the new HD's & some I-beams.
 
Yea I know people are doing and have done it, I'm not arguing that my friend. I'm just saying I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it is all. I tried to get the HD. When I checked out my order at extremepsi I left a note to seller if he had the HDs I would like those. But maybe ill switch up the set, but for now I'm way over budget so far.
 
Yea I know people are doing and have done it, I'm not arguing that my friend. I'm just saying I wouldn't feel comfortable doing it is all. I tried to get the HD. When I checked out my order at extremepsi I left a note to seller if he had the HDs I would like those. But maybe ill switch up the set, but for now I'm way over budget so far.

yeah I hear ya these cars are expensive. You could always find a shop built short block for sale & inspect it before purchasing it. It would save you $ in the long run. After looking at the pics Idk how anyone could sell pistons like that to another car guy.
 
and do alittle little more reading n asking the members that are on there what they think of probe.


If you like a piston that cracks under boost on a 4G63 then go right ahead my friends.

Supertech pistons hold up better and that is saying alot. Here is something to think about Wiseco is a 10x time better piston than that Probe and people have had them crack. There v8 stuff isnt to bad but then it comes to Imports, just paper weights.

Last time I talked to them they told me the set they sell is for N/A motors and shouldnt see boost.

You May want to see the video i post some time ago.
Those guys over there love them. Lots of those guys have been running probe pistons in nitrous engines for years with no failure, and nitrous is about the harshest environment there is. I'm not saying probe is the greatest piston on the market. What I am saying is the community you refered to as hating them, have tons of cases of people loving them.
 
I know you already solved your piston issue but Id like to ad my experience for other users.
I had the same exact thing happen to my piston skirts after 5000 miles, due to improper PTW clearance done by a "reputable" builder/vendor on this site.

After tearing the motor down and having another vendor on here tell me they were shot. I assumed the worse, but after taking them to my own machinist and having him look them over he said they were fine. Just needed to be recoated, which he had done for me for around $100. That was 2 different coatings, one for the skirts and another for the piston tops.

And I swear hearing my machinst say at some point say that all pistons are different sizes and each bore has to be sized for each piston. Ill have to ask him again when I swing by.
 
Yes most all pistons are a different size, but it is a small amount of variance, .0005 or less.

Back in the "good old days" you could find .0015, but as manufacturing procedures improved so did tolerances and gram weights.

IMHO, coating a collapsed piston, is just a patch job, the piston will not have the strength it did and will continue to collapse.

If you coat a piston that has gaulled, or skirt damage, it may repair it for a period of use, but will fail again.
 
Yes most all pistons are a different size, but it is a small amount of variance, .0005 or less.

Back in the "good old days" you could find .0015, but as manufacturing procedures improved so did tolerances and gram weights.

IMHO, coating a collapsed piston, is just a patch job, the piston will not have the strength it did and will continue to collapse.

If you coat a piston that has gaulled, or skirt damage, it may repair it for a period of use, but will fail again.

I dont believe mine were damaged, it just looked like the coating that came from Wiseco was rubbed off a little.

My machinist has been building race motors for 30+ years, im sure if there were something wrong with them he would have told me.
Plus he gave the pistons to my old neighbor, Joe Saluta, to be coated. Joe has been drag racing as long as I can remember, thats over 20 years because I moved in 2 houses down from him when I was 5. Im sure he wouldnt of coated the pistons if he felt they were damaged.
I guess Ill find out because Im building a spare bottom end with those pistons shortly.
 
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