Need a new exhaust mani for my EVOIII 16g

[kxcntry99]

So I just found out that I have a crack in my exhaust manifold and need to replace it. I went to the parts catalog and the EVO III manifold seems to be a decent price (I don't want to fork out for a tubular right now) and it might increase my flow a bit too.

I checked with my mechanic and he is saying $200 just in labor for the install!!!! I read here that except for breaking bolts its pretty easy, I think I will do it myself.

I searched the forums but I wanted to get some answers to my specific setup. Will the EVO III manifold be a direct bolt up to the EVO 16g turbo? If so or if not what parts am I going to need to do this right? I know I am going to need a gasket for the mani to the block and the mani to the turbo. I have read that using new bolts would be a good idea but is there a specific bolt kit I havn't found, or should I hit my NAPA store? Am I missing anything for my setup and if anyone has any tips I would apprecite it.

Thanks

 

[97 4G63]

Yes the evo3 many bolts right up to you motor/turbo that why it's called an evo316g..
but if the turbo is on the car right now then you don't need anything but new turbo bolts would be nice but not needed if it's not on the car you will need a 2nd gen install kit..

 

[romeen]

Just out of curiosity, where is the crack? If it is in the collector/divider area you don't need to replace it (these are common).

The EVO III manifold has a larger collector which matches the turbine inlet of your E3 16G so it should work a bit better than the 2G manifold. You also have the option of porting the step on both the manifold and turbine inlet. If you don't want to do that you can also purchase the sealing ring which gives some protection to the gasket.

If the head-manifold gasket looks ok then you can reuse it. If you need to replace it you can consider a 4 layer gasket (used on EVO's). Supposedly better sealing. RRE carries them as well as the sealing ring and the larger 7cm2 gaskets (both stainless steel and oem multi-layer).

For the manifold-turbo bolts I recommend getting OEM ones. They have the proper hardness and resistance to heat. Don't forget the cup washers (also called cone washers) that go between the bolt head and manifold. You need two washers properly oriented for each bolt otherwise the bolts tend to loosen up. You can search for the part numbers.

Also remember the gasket for the oil return line at the oil pan. If you are using an oem oil feed line from the head then you will need a pair of cruch washers for that as well.

Let me know if you need any help with parts or install.

 

[kxcntry99]

Thanks for the responses everyone. I am not sure exactly where the crack is yet but I have little to no boost and when I poped the hood and hit the throdle cable I have exhaust gas coming up from under the heat shield. So unfortunately its time for a replacement.

As for porting the new mani. I probably will no do that since 1) it is my daily driver and I don't need to go too extreme and 2) when I have the money I am going to retire the car and rebuild the entire engine along with a tubular manifold.

Thanks for the tip on the 4 layer gaskets. I think I will probably replace both just to be sure and I will get the sealent ring and go with the 7cm ones. I will have to search for the OEM bolt part numbers, but I will not need the oil feed washers since I am tapped from the filter directly.

Can you please go into the return line in a little more detail? I havn't even looked under the heat shield yet but I didn't think the oil return came thru the manifold? Where can I find the gasket for that and will I need anything else there?

One last question about getting the old manifold off...I have read its common to break the bolts when getting these things off. Does anyone have any tips to NOT breaking them or if they are stuck on? I know that PB Blaster has always worked on my stuck lug nuts. Can I use it here if necessary as well? Also I am fortunate enough to have access to a pnematic impact wrench. If I have some bolts stuck on would I be causing any harm to whip that thing out to get them off? If they do break is my only option to drill it out?

Thanks for your help I hopefully will be up and running again soon.

 

[97 4G63]

You don't need to look up part number here are links to your problems..
Also you sayd it's your daily driver so theres no need for the evo 3 many just replace the gasket on you manifold and the o2 housing i'm sure thats were your smoke is comming from here is what you need..
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Oil Return Line Gasket : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM O2 Housing Gasket EVO III : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts - OEM Manifold to Turbo Bolt : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

 

[romeen]

You definitely might not need a new manifold. Although it's possible that you may have a through-and-through crack in the manifold it is more likely that you blew out a gasket (typically the manifold to turbo gasket). Also, if the cone washers were not used when your turbo was installed then the bolts may have become loose allowing the exhaust leak.

Before you order the new manifold I would pull the heat shield and look for the leak. Look for either the black soot indicating the location of the leak or run engine and look, listen and feel for the leak (don't burn yourself).

Can you please go into the return line in a little more detail? I havn't even looked under the heat shield yet but I didn't think the oil return came thru the manifold? Where can I find the gasket for that and will I need anything else there?

Correct, the oil return line doesn't have anything to do with the manifold. But to remove the manifold you need to remove the turbo and to do this you need to unbolt the oil return line. The small gasket that 97 4G63 linked to in the first link goes between the oil return line flange and the oil pan. It should be replaced. Some guys reuse them with a small amount of RTV silicone on both sides of the gasket and have no problems (some do this even with a new gasket). But if it has been on there for awhile it may be stuck and tear or break when you remove it.

As far as breaking the bolts loose you are right on about the PB Blaster. I like to spray them a couple times a day for a couple days before starting the project. Although if you are still driving it daily that will make it smoke and stink when it burns off. Also, heating up the motor before unbolting may help as the heat makes the bolt holes expand. Again, be careful not to burn yourself.

Remember, if you do in fact need the cone washers you will need 2 for every bolt and they need to placed with the convex sides facing away from eachother. If you do a search on it I believe there are pictures and diagrams of how they go.

Let me know if I can be of more help.

 

[kxcntry99]

Thanks for the tips guys. Unfortunately I know the mani is cracked since I had taken it to a mechanic to have it looked at.

As for the oil return line, I was hoping that I could get away with not having to completely remove the turbo. Any chance that this could be one without removing it? I was thinking I could just loosen the turbo bolts first, remove the head bolts, the hold the turbo while removing the turbo bolts and slipping the new mani in. Am I way off base?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

You could always get in on the group buy for one of the new FP manifolds. They're inexpensive, and will flow better than the evo3.