N/T Long block in a Turbo Car

[Rockstar04]

Hello everyone!

I have a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD that recently lost a rod bearing and slamming the piston in to the head bending the valves.

I have a Non Turbo 6-bolt complete motor, can I take the N/T long block and put the 1990 Turbo parts on it and run the motor, as long as I keep the boost down and run 91 octane and maybe an octane booster?

Thanks for the help everyone!

 

[tkelly27]

Do a search. It will work, if you keep the boost low like you said you will.

 

[Rockstar04]

Ok thanks, thats all I need to know, I have been running the N/T Gen1's for a while at a local racetrack but jsut got in to the turbo DSM's

 

[GS-T_Newboost]

only main differnce between the na block and the turbo block is oil squirters. i say it will work at low boost

 

[mavisky]

Well the squirters and teh pistons obviously. Run the boost as low as possible for now. If you want you can just get a set of stock turbo pistons or something better and put them on the nt rods and crank. They're identical.

 

[Spln_Hrd]

Just a thought, Magnus motorsports doesn't build a 7 bolt block with oil squirters in it. A nice set of pistons makes a work of differance on knock. Might wanna look into some and pop it out .20 over to freshen it up anyways.

Or leave it alone and keep the boost low. I have a friend who ran 13's on a n/t long block in a fwd, so they are not a bad engine. Just a little more likely to knock.

 

[mavisky]

The issues isn't them wanting to knock, it's them not tolerating much knock when it does happen. They'll let go much much sooner than a set of turbo pistons ever would. The motor almost becomes rotary like in it's hatred for pre-ignition.

 

[Rockstar04]

This is in no way going to be a perminate solution , i just need to throw something together to get me to work and school for the winter.

Now i am going to start ammassing parts for a new motor, I am thinking:

Freshen my block and go 20 thousandths over
Butchered crank from FFWD Connection
2G Rods
Wiesco pistons around 8.5:1
A good solid head with a 264/272 combo and adjustable gears


A build like that should get my to atleast beat all the stupid STi's in this stupid town

 

[90laserRSfwd]

2g rods ? why ??? Just put some arp bolts into your 1g rods and have them shot peened...

I have a non turbo 92 talon (6 bolt) that I turbo'd and it runs just fine for the 6K that I've put on it thus far. I'm running a small 16 @ 12 psi with a Supra SMIC and a rewired 255 pump with a FPR. Car runs just fine with no knock (I'm on 93 oct. though)

 

[Rockstar04]

I thought I read somewhere that 2g rods are better?

And hey its really cool that you have actually slapped a turbo on the N/T, how hard do you run it?

 

[fourreGsixty3]

Lets just say 2G rods are equivilent to toothpicks, and 1Gs are equal to Louisville sluggers The 2G pistons/1G rods are a good match.

For the OP: I would just swap in 7.8:1CR stock pistons, and call it a day with the motor. People run perfectly fine on the street without squirters.

 

[Rockstar04]

ok well in that case I have like 4 sets of 1G rods

 

[Locke]

As stated already;

You have 1g rods in your NT long block already. Add turbo pistons, (+any require machine work and rings) and be done with it for a permanent solution. For a temporary solution, just turn down the boost and be sure to run high octane fuel.

 

[Jeff_Ciesielski]

Just a thought, a friend of mine ran N/T pistons in his car with a 20g and a good amount of boost on pump gas. While those pistons WILL give out much faster if you knock, if you run a good tune, its quite possible to make good horsepower and get rid of a bit of lag while your at it. Of course, its all about what you want to do with your car. It would be a lot better for auto-x due to the responsiveness, but wouldn't necessarily make for a good drag car. From personal experience, I ran my N/T rx7 with a turbo for a while, at 9.7:1 compression, I hit peak boost at <2000 RPM ( which isn't entirely comparable, because rotaries spool turbos faster anyway) but you get the picture.

 

[Rockstar04]

All I am looking for is back and forth to work and school until I can build a longblock that will get me 400-450HP

 

[mavisky]

If you don't mind the added risk (and it's a large risk) of running the nt pistons go for it, but it won't be nearly as reliable or as forgiving as the turbo pistons and you're only going to make a bit more power in the lower rpms. When I was building my last engine I decided that I'd much rather ensure that I finish the race than risk not finishing for a little more power. The best of both worlds would be to go with a good aftermarket piston in the 9:1 range. Same power as the nt pistons with even more reliability than the turbo pistons.

 

[JayRolla]

With the timing of a 1g I would not use the n/t pistons. Tuning will be a PITA on pump gas. Now if you are going to run meth, race gas or e85 than I dont think you would have a problem.

 

[mavisky]

The biggest problem with the nt pistons is how close their top most ringland is to the actual flame surface. They're very very susceptible to cracking under high cylinder pressures or knock. If you want the higher compression do it the right way and save yourself the risk of damaging the block when one of the nt pistons eventually lets go.

 

[Raph]

If you don't mind the added risk (and it's a large risk) of running the nt pistons go for it, but it won't be nearly as reliable or as forgiving as the turbo pistons and you're only going to make a bit more power in the lower rpms. When I was building my last engine I decided that I'd much rather ensure that I finish the race than risk not finishing for a little more power. The best of both worlds would be to go with a good aftermarket piston in the 9:1 range. Same power as the nt pistons with even more reliability than the turbo pistons.

not raining on anyones parade.. biut i did make 342 fwhp on pump gas(98) on my nt internals.. (did kill 2 trannys ,but dsm trannies are crap anyway)

Block threw a rod running more boost and leaner afrs (WOT w/12.9AFR but it felt f**ckin fast).. the motor lasted 47000 kms in turboed form.. after running 16-20psi on the t25, and 8-15 psi on the V-trim.. it only needed 1 headgasket (thermostat failure)

17psi killed it .. (rod came out the oilpan)


like i said, it can be done on good fuel (98 octane)
ecu was a piggyback ecu+
3 " turboback
Bc cams,ACT+Fidanza plus the bullseye v-trim..
SSAC FMIC
Hi-imp injectors ,aeromotive afpr.
(the parts listed above were all excellent buys..props to BC )

i think im the only guy on here who ever made so much with a 4g63nt.. am i right??

now being rebuilt by its new owner .. (DSM ###### decided to die because i wanted to sell it)

here are the parts that are going in.. i just wanted to say that it can be done.. at least the new owners a friend and ill still get to drive it (i am its builder and tuner after all )

 

[mavisky]

I've seen people do all sorts of things with cars that they shouldn't have been able to, doesnt mean it works for everyone though, especially as a daily driver. I'm betting your 98 octane fuel had a whole lot to do with you being able to do that.

 

[Rockstar04]

Here in hick-ville USA the best i can find is 92, so i was planning on adding an octane booster to every tank.